I did a trigger job on my Mosin, I have a question

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macpowa

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Hi,

I did a trigger job on my mosin nagant based on the video posted by Iraqveteran8888. Now i only need about 4 1/2 pounds to pull the trigger. Is it too light? Sometime it goes to 4/5 pounds and now it also have a little creep just before it go.

Any advice will be appreciated.

Thx
 
Mines at 2 lbs ( 1.96 average )\\I have a Finn 2 stage trigger as well...

What sucks is I cant go any lower or it will fire during the drop test....
 
Its not too light by any means, but did you do the bump test t see if it holds? Its well worth checking. Make the gun ready to fire (unloaded of Course) and bump the butt stock on the floor a few times. It should not fire, if it holds thats good.
I'll be doing the triggers on mine as well later in the winter, and on a couple others also.
 
It will serve both hunting and target shooting. I will stay there, maybe polishing just a bit to remove the weird feeling before it go.
 
Two pounds is too light. Four and a half is good, but not if it doesn't stay at that. If the trigger pull changes by itself, something is wrong.
 
What is the Iraqvet8888 trigger job? I altered one of my by adding a few shims under the screw that holds the sear/spring in place and altering the sear angle ever so slightly then polishing the mating surfaces. 4-5 pounds is probably fairly accurate to what I wound up with plus less creep. Much better than the 8-10 lbs it came with. (I have another Mosin I swear is near a 20lb pull)

Getting the mating surfaces polished will probably eliminate some of the 'weird' feeling. But unless you go Timney it's still an old military trigger designed over a century ago. And 2lbs is not too light, provided your gun remains safe, ie: not accidentally discharging. I'd probably refrain from bringing many of the old military rifles down that low without investing in a better trigger assembly myself...
 
IV8888 has a lot of good info on Youtube, but his trigger job videos miss on a very key point with regards to safety... Before you head to a belt sander with your sear or hammer/striker, you owe it to yourself to have a complete understanding of the terms positive, negative, and neutral engagement. Eric does not address this specifically in his Mosin video. He talks of making his angle 90°, which would imply neutral engagement. You must have neutral, or slightly positive sear engagement before you start lightening or reducing creep. A long stiff creepy trigger is the only thing keeping a negative sear engagement safe. His SKS video really fails in this regard because he just sands the sear off to reduce creep without addressing the negative engagement...
 
I am a bit concern now ... Did i mess up with the safety of my rifle? I don't fully understand those things you just said. I followed is instructions which is : polish/square the part on the bolt/safe. Polish the surface of the seer? (Part that is screwed on the gun that go in the trigger) I am not familiar with terms yet.

(Sorry if my english is not perfect.)
 
macpowa said:
I am a bit concern now ... I don't fully understand those things you just said. I followed is instructions which is : polish/square the part on the bolt/safe. Polish the surface of the seer? (Part that is screwed on the gun that go in the trigger) I am not familiar with terms yet.

(Sorry if my english is not perfect.)
Click to expand...

No problem... polishing all the parts can make a trigger much nicer and lighter without affecting safety.. But if you choose to start removing material to reduce how much creep you have (i would recomment using files and stones as opposed to a belt sander as he does in the video) make sure you aren't changing the angles of how the parts engage to create an unsafe trigger.
 
This is what i did, i used a file to remove some material and after i used a stone to polish. What is concerning me is that the pull is not always the same. It can change roughly more or less 1/2 pound.
 
Positive sear engagement simply means that the spring pressure of the cocked bolt should be pulling the sear into the cocking piece. When the trigger is pulled the hammer or striker should always either stay neutral in place, or come back just slightly. This isn't to say that the hammer should move any great, or even noticeable amount, just that it should never creep foreward before the trigger breaks...

I am also not totally sold on the buttstock drop test on a Mosin to prove a trigger safe... When you slap the buttstock down, inertia is trying to further #### the bolt, not decock it, and the sear is held against it with spring pressure. If you were to drop that same rifle horizontally straight down onto the trigger guard, the inertia would be neutral on the bolt, but trying to disengage the sear...a very different, and much more likely to happen event. To drop test your gun, use a soft faced mallet and smack the action every which way before you put your stock back on. If you can make the cocking piece fall, you need to go back and rework it.
 
macpowa said:
This is what i did, i used a file to remove some material and after i used a stone to polish. What is concerning me is that the pull is not always the same. It can change roughly more or less 1/2 pound.
Click to expand...

That is not uncommon, its not too often you will get the same reading every pull, especially on an old trigger design like the Mosin has.
 
Are you using a Digital scale ?

Here is my mosin, it never registers the same trigger pull.

 
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A Huber Concepts trigger is the best way to go for the Mosin. Polishing the bearing surface on the sear/spring as well as squaring the sear and firing pin catch help ensure clean and consistent release. I can dial mine down to 2 lbs. and it will not jar loose with the "thump test".
View attachment 18786
 
SHELL SHUCKER said:
A Huber Concepts trigger is the best way to go for the Mosin. Polishing the bearing surface on the sear/spring as well as squaring the sear and firing pin catch help ensure clean and consistent release. I can dial mine down to 2 lbs. and it will not jar loose with the "thump test".
View attachment 18786
Click to expand...

I was looking at the Huber triggers, they seemed like an interesting concept. Did you do all the Polishing/squaring as well as the Huber install? I've got a project M38 that I wanted to really dial in and turn into a Scout Rifle, the trigger was very definitely on the list of fixes. I don't want to get the Timney (on interest in the thumb safety and the stock inletting you need to do to accommodate it). I just haven't come across too much in the way of independent reviews of the Huber.
 
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