I got to Shoot the Blackfeather EBR Stock Today

IRC

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I had the opportunity to shoot two of the prototype Black Feather EBR stocks today. Both in 18.5 barrel shorties, with three different muzzle brakes and both a 1.5-6 scope as well as a JPoint MRD. Between the two guns and three “set ups” I fired about 100 rounds at ranges from 15-25 yrds on a number of CQB courses of fire.

Let me first say I prefer carbines or PDWs for close fast shooting and I like my M14s with long barrels and a comfy mat to lie on. With that said, I can not believe how nice this stock is and how well I could manipulate it in any of the configurations to make fast double taps hits in the A zone through a number of different COF. The stock is light and well balanced, grip angle is familiar and requires nothing to be comfortable. With a two chamber SS Miceluk type comp, and the JPoint red dot I was getting almost no “Dot Bounce” and hits as fast as I could pull the trigger. Lighting fast double taps with a 7.62x51 (i.e. 6 As on three targets at 20 yds in 3.5ish seconds from the low port)! I was a little slower with the scope (on the CASM mount), but still able to run the same course in and around the high 3s with a worst of 4.2 sec, still all As).

Felt recoil is soft and has less muzzle flip than I expected with the short rifles. I can’t wait to try this stock prone from a mat/bipod combo. Quality and machine work were outstanding and despite it being a prototype, I could see nothing required in fit/finish wanting attention other than that the stock was not yet anodized. I’m sorry but it was snowing like crazy, so no video camera, but I think one of the guys had his iphone running. Will update later if available.

Bottom line, I’m sold and will add this to my “must have list” with the MDT TAC21 for my 700.
 
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excellent to hear! I am am excited to see the stocks hit the market! I might just have to buy one for myself depending upon funds in the coming months.

:D
 
I have set aside my MK14 Mod 1 barreled action for the new Blackfeather.
Chrome lined standard weight 18.0: barrel with SEI's DC Vortex... I can't wait!
 
IRC, thanks for your feedback! Larry said a lot of good things about you and touched only briefly on your expertise and military background. I am honored, as Larry was, that you took the time to come to range trials.

I am looking forward to meeting you one day. Unfortunately, I had other business to attend to this weekend so getting out with you guys was impossible.

And it seems I owe you guys some ammo! Lucky for me, Canadaammo came through on 900 rounds of Norinco so next time, it's on me!

Cheers,
-Frank
 
Cant wait for the blackfeather to be ready for ordering, just got 900 rounds from can am waiting for it. Im going crazy between waiting for the blackfeather and my new ar to show up.
 
I really like the look of your newstock...well done Guys

I have a Shorty from CanAm and I believe the receiver on mine is a little smaller than the 2 Polytechs I own or another Norinco I compared it to ...I believe all the Shortys from that shipment probably have the same dimension as mine.

To get my Shorty into my USGI fiberglass stock or an Archangel stock I own alot of material must be removed under the trigger pads and the trigger guard to fit the stock correctly and to get it to pass the trigger test after assembly . I removed aprox 1/8 -1/4 in of material .
The trigger group cutouts on the original stock for my Shorty were cut deep into the stock as well.
The question I have ... Is there enough material under the trigger pads and the trigger guard areas on your Blackfeather stock to allow the removal of some of it to accomadate my smaller receiver ?
Here is how much material I had to remove from my USGI stock.
Shorty1c.jpg
 
I'm sorry, I can't answer that question maybe Frank can wade in.

I have a Shorty from CanAm and the receivers on mine is a little smaller than the 2 Polytechs I own or another Norinco I compared it to ...I believe all the Shortys from that shipment probably have the same dimension as mine.

To get my USGI fiberglass stock or an Archangel stock I own alot of material must be removed under the trigger pads and the trigger guard tot the stock correctly and to get it to pass the trigger test after assembly . I removed aprox 1/4 in of material .


The question I have ... Is there enough material under the trigger pads and the trigger guard to allow the removal of some of it to accomadate my smaller receiver ?
 
Is there enough material under the trigger pads and the trigger guard areas on your Blackfeather stock to allow the removal of some of it to accomadate my smaller receiver ?

Blackfeather relies on original USGI receiver drawings, verification from M14 armorors in the USA (Gus Fisher's writings) and our own in-house technical expert for the correct distance from the top of the stock to the small bedding surfaces at the rear of the trigger housing.

On both the M1Garand and M14 stocks, the correct distance is 1.725 or slightly less. You can check this distance using good dial calipers. This distance is critical to the proper function of your rifle and the six Norinco/Polytech rifles we have put on Blackfeather so far have not had any issues with fit. In fact, they drop in nice and tight.

At this writing, we have a receiver block being sent down to the USA to check 762mm, Armscor and LRB receivers. We were also able to check a Converted Auto M14 in Victoria BC recently (we altered our stock block to allow it to fit the CA part).

We can provide you the option to test fit your CANAM short rifle to our receiver block prior to making your Blackfeather purchase should you elect to proceed.

Pre-orders for the Blackfeather "RS" are being done now by email only (full name with tel. no.) with an email to info@m14.ca

I am unable to guarantee that by being on this list you will receive a Blackfeather at the end of March. We may need more time just to fill current backorders but definitely, the people on this list will be called first.
 
To get my Shorty into my USGI fiberglass stock or an Archangel stock I own alot of material must be removed under the trigger pads and the trigger guard to fit the stock correctly and to get it to pass the trigger test after assembly.

I thought I would post Gus Fisher's Function Test for those that do not know this procedure.

III. Function Check for Semi Auto M14’s

As a Standard Infantry Weapons Repairman in the Marine Corps and when we still used the M14 as our Issue Battle Rifle, we Armorers were taught to perform this standard function test. As a NM Armorer in the Marine Corps, we performed this function check after EVERY time we worked on the rifle or even tuned the trigger. This function test is a good thing to do before EVERY time you go to shoot the rifle. If you DO get a double fire, I most strongly suggest you do this test BEFORE you fire the rifle again.

Special Note: I have been informed by reliable people, who have built the EBR’s at Rock Island Arsenal, that this test was determined by the Arsenal not to be necessary for their EBR’s to pass. Basically the reason is the rifle is never expected to be fired without a magazine with ammo in place. The bolt stripping a round from the magazine will be slowed down much slower than this test checks. It is also taught that one should never load a single round into the chamber without a magazine in place. Also, when a rifle passes this function test, we NEVER found a time the rifle would double. So I continue to do this test on EVERY M14 type rifle I work on. (You really can’t perform this test correctly on an M1 Garand though. When you pull the op rod all the way back, the follower and slide will keep the bolt locked to the rear until you put a clip with ammo in the rifle. I perform the test on a Garand by not pulling the op rod back that far though and that’s the way we did it on NM Garands.) OK, I think I have all the caveats covered, so let’s get on with the test.

1. Take the magazine out of the rifle and clear it of all cartridges. Ensure the rifle is not loaded by BOTH visually and manually inspecting it. You do NOT want ammo in the rifle when you do this test.

2. I am right handed, so I grasp the rifle with my left hand. I take it “off safe” and pull the trigger on an EMPTY rifle with my left hand and KEEP pressure on the trigger all the way back while performing the test. This allows the hammer to go all the way forward.

3. While maintaining a firm grip and pressure on the trigger all the way back, grab the op rod with the right hand. Pull it all the way to the rear and release it when it is all the way back. KEEP pressure on the trigger.

4. After the bolt goes all the way home, FINALLY release the pressure on the trigger. Then pull the trigger to the rear again. It SHOULD release the hammer hooks from the trigger and allow the hammer to come forward. You can both feel and hear it the hammer does come forward. If it does release hammer, everything is good, as that demonstrates the hammer hooks were properly resetting the trigger.

5. If the rifle passed the test, do it again three times VERY quickly and as fast as you can without letting go of the trigger until a few seconds after the bolt goes home. If it passes this portion of the test, you can be 99.9999999999999 % percent positive the rifle will not double on you.

6. IF the trigger did not reset and allow the hammer to go forward before you released the trigger pressure and pulled the trigger again, THEN you very likely CAN or even will have a double with that rifle. At this point we have ruled out everything else, so we now have to look for the cause in the rifle.

Cheers,
-Frank
 
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