I had to clean my 10/22

DILLIGAF

DILLIGAF

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I had to clean my 10/22 after 8500 rounds :mad:

I have better things to do then clean, but this time it was serious...

I had a bunch of FTL at the range... So I got out the good old carb cleaner :p and this time it didnt solve the problem... So I sprayed the sh!t out of it with CLP and nothing...

So I got home and took it appart and found the barrel was loose... :eek: that explained my problem...

Hopefully now after some locktite I can get back to my 10 000 round cleaning schedule...
 
Awwwww Muffin! 8,500 rounds and you had to clean that thing? Might as well use it to prop up a table or something. 8,500 rounds how disapointing :cheers:
 
I must have a dud because I will start to get the odd stovepipe after 1500 rounds. Then its a quick teardown and internal clean and re assembly, usualy a 20 min job.
 
LarryG said:
I'll bet you weren't shooting winchester Xperts
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I'd put money on that
Guy JR said:
I must have a dud because I will start to get the odd stovepipe after 1500 rounds. Then its a quick teardown and internal clean and re assembly, usualy a 20 min job.
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How heavily are you oiling the internals? The powder residue will stick to the oil and create a thick sludge, especially in cold weather. A light film of oil will last alot longer than a heavy coat in a rimfire semi, especially with good oil. The most important areas to keep the oil thin are the front half of the bolt raceway, spring guide and top of bolt where powder residue fouls the most while ejecting.
 
i thought i was doing well with 2500 rounds of dirty bulk pack ammo through my ruger mk III before cleaning. 8K:eek::eek: What kind of ammo are you shooting?!?
 
How heavily are you oiling the internals? The powder residue will stick to the oil and create a thick sludge, especially in cold weather. A light film of oil will last alot longer than a heavy coat in a rimfire semi, especially with good oil. The most important areas to keep the oil thin are the front half of the bolt raceway, spring guide and top of bolt where powder residue fouls the most while ejecting.[/QUOTE]

Just a very light coat of G96, then a whipe with a clean rag. I am shooting CCI standard velocity 40gr RN which dont have the extra energy to kick out the empty that most bulk pach high velocity has, so at about the 3 brick mark the bit of fowling slows it down just enough to stovepipe. Small price to pay I figure.
 
TDC said:
If you run the right loctite (blue) its a non issue.

TDC
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and do you know how many actualy do that? Ive done 2 shotguns 1 rifle and a 22 this summer that were soaked in loctite and 1 castle nut even had jb weld on it :mad:

but if its insisted to use it at least use green GUNtite meant for fine threaded scews ;)
 
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