I have my XLR stock...!!!

Bear_Blade said:
Seen. Now if I wern't so bloody tired, and actually allowed my brain to process what my eyes saw, the correct answer would have been "It is fastened in place just ahead of the barrel nut. The large block at the back end of the hand guard, has the top portion separate, the bottom as an integral part of the receiver portion of the chassis, they are held together by 6 allen head bolts that clamp the tube in place"

edit: If I remember correctly, the tube is indexed to reassemble in a repeatable manner.

Hope that helps. And my bad for the miss read.
Click to expand...

No worries, thanks for the info and description.:cheers:


Mark
 
ben777lemay said:
I only have one problem with the stock...

Today I was loking at the rifle and tried to fire a snap cap...
I just can't pull the trigger...

I can insert and remove the bolt, no problem, the trigger and bolt release works like a dream...

Load a round into it and I can't pull the trigger... even the safety lever on the Accutrigger...

I think there is a problem with the safety...
When the safety is on and off I can open the bolt, I don't think its supposed to open when safety is on ???
Is there something special with the safety when reinstalling the stock ???

Any ideas guys ??
Click to expand...

Check that the trigger "lever" for lack of a better word is not being impeded by the chassis. When you try to squeeze the trigger it may be wedged against the inside of the chassis. Mine was fine with the stock accutrigger, but when I switched to a Rifle Basix SAV 2, I had to remove a bit of metal from the chassis inside the trigger guard where the trigger bar comes down. It's hard to explain (terminology) but easy to do. I can try and send you a pic.

Savage 3 pos. safety, should allow bolt movement in pos 1, fire, pos 2, mid point to cylcle the bolt, but not fire, and pos 3, full on, no bolt movement or lift and no trigger break.
 
Mine.

DSCN0268.jpg
 
peacefrog said:
Check that the trigger "lever" for lack of a better word is not being impeded by the chassis. When you try to squeeze the trigger it may be wedged against the inside of the chassis. Mine was fine with the stock accutrigger, but when I switched to a Rifle Basix SAV 2, I had to remove a bit of metal from the chassis inside the trigger guard where the trigger bar comes down. It's hard to explain (terminology) but easy to do. I can try and send you a pic.

Savage 3 pos. safety, should allow bolt movement in pos 1, fire, pos 2, mid point to cylcle the bolt, but not fire, and pos 3, full on, no bolt movement or lift and no trigger break.
Click to expand...


Sounds like the sear is being blocked by some of the stock material by the rear action screw. Rub some crayon or grease on the sear and reinstall, that should tell you if this is the problem.


http://hunting.about.com/od/gunmakers/l/aa_accutrigger.htm
 
Yes that's it, the sear lever! Sleep deprivation is a wonderful thing.

You won't even need to mark it up. If you flip the gun over, and look into the trigger guard you will see if the sear lever is touching the inner chassis at the front of the trigger assembly. This is where to remove a little metal from the chassis, just enough to allow it to clear and allow for the trigger to move. I think in mine it was maybe 1/16"-1/8".
 
derrick1978 said:
Sounds like the sear is being blocked by some of the stock material by the rear action screw. Rub some crayon or grease on the sear and reinstall, that should tell you if this is the problem.


http://hunting.about.com/od/gunmakers/l/aa_accutrigger.htm

savage_at_release.jpg
Click to expand...

peacefrog said:
Yes that's it, the sear lever! Sleep deprivation is a wonderful thing.

You won't even need to mark it up. If you flip the gun over, and look into the trigger guard you will see if the sear lever is touching the inner chassis at the front of the trigger assembly. This is where to remove a little metal from the chassis, just enough to allow it to clear and allow for the trigger to move. I think in mine it was maybe 1/16"-1/8".
Click to expand...

When you say sear lever, its the accutigger safety lever or the sear itself but *inside* the trigger assembly ????

Thx guys I will try that...
But if this is the problem, how I can actually remove the bolt with the trigger ??? that work just fine ( sear lever + trigger )...
Is just when the bolt is cocked and rifle just won't fire...
Maybe its a safety issue ?!?!?!

Can't wait to see answers...

Finally I will wait tomorrow, I will have extra hands and eyes :p
One of my friend will help me...

Nice rifle Peacefrog !!! XD Is that a factory barrel ???
 
ben777lemay said:
Ill part it out tomorrow... But I'm really curious to see where you removed some material... I'm a visual guy :p

Will inspect the rifle of course...
Thx 4 the advices !!!



This is fast becoming #### !!! :eek:
Slick rifle !!!
Click to expand...

Just at the rear corner of the tang I had to give it a small hit with the file after it would not seat properly in the chassis. You can see where the finsh was rubbed off by my misshandling:redface:

PicsJuly30-12004.jpg


Mine---Just for the #### factory
XLR223build.jpg


PS I have a SAV-2 trigger in it now and had no poblem with it rubbing on mine. Love the light sub-1lbs pull on it:D
 
ben777lemay said:
There is gap in this area, I wil have to file a bit too :rolleyes:

Do you think that will solve the problem or its half the problem ???

For the missing finnish on your receiver, you can just put masking tape around the area and apply black satin paint with a Q-Tip !!!
Click to expand...

Picture is bad but the tang used to sit level with the top of the chassis as the corner of the tang extended into the area where the finish is damaged. Things don't line up too well when thats happening. Took a bit off and it drops right in now. Not a gap but a height difference in the pic. Have two complete systems that drop into this chassis. Not worried about the finish anymore after dragging it through the wood for a while. Just figured if the tang was binding on the chassis things could have issues...
 
icedragonmx said:
Just at the rear corner of the tang I had to give it a small hit with the file after it would not seat properly in the chassis.
Click to expand...

You were right !!! That was the cause of the problem !!! :rolleyes:
I did it with a Dremel but I rubbed the top of the chassis... Dohhhhhhh !!!
So I did some touch-up with flat-black paint and if you dunno where it is you won't even see it... Oufffff !!!:p

Everything works just fine now !!! I'm sooooooo happy !!!
Thx guys for the help, I really appreciate !!!

Sry for the crappy pictures...

001-26.jpg


With the touch up...

002-27.jpg


Finally everything is working...

005-21.jpg
 
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ben777lemay said:
Is that an aftermarket bolt lever ???
If yes where did you buy it ???
Click to expand...
It is a Savage action, our buddy Sean at North Shore Barrels put it together. Also if you notice at the end of the bolt, there is a spacer. Sean installed a ball bearing bolt lift kit.
cid_334FF14672894B14843E51325BF6DC7CSeanPC.jpg

cid_AD92DA1E3EF5452F93FB7A72B0A3FE4BSeanPC.jpg

cid_C9BC089ADA2748C39D88ADD9580CDB56SeanPC.jpg


Slicker than sh!t through a goose!
 
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icedragonmx said:
Congrats on getting it done! Nice touch up to the finish. Hope you will post some target pics soon:D
Click to expand...

Target pics in a week or two...
I need to sell my other rings and buy higher ones...
Need to find good ammunition to feed this pig, since I don't have stuff for reloading, not yet !!!
She really likes the Hornady Match 168gr BTHP !!!

Bear_Blade said:
It is a Savage action, our buddy Sean at North Shore Barrels put it together. Also if you notice at the end of the bolt, there is a spacer. Sean installed a ball bearing bolt lift kit.

Slicker than sh!t through a goose!
Click to expand...

Sounds like I have to drop an email to Sean !!! :D
 
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