I have a old enfield I got to work on, I used a combo of steel wool, toothbrush and viniger to get the rust off. I cleaned it all up, rinced with boiling water and started heating it metal so the bluing takes better. It keeps flash rusting is the problem. Now im stuck with rust again. Most the rust is issolated to the trigger group area and inner back of the chamber.
I keep getting flash rust while cold bluing when heating.
- Thread starter CanadianBaconPancakes
- Start date
I use the Birchwood Casey cold blue and have never heated anything before using it and have never had a problem (stuff works awesome) The vinegar is an acid that might be reacting funny with the cold blue. try using just dish soap and cold water water. I would stay away from the boiling water but that's my opinion, good luck.
A rusty inner back of the chamber isn't caused by cold bluing. Or shouldn't be. The innards don't get blued. Mind you, neither did Lee-Enfields.
Light rust is removed with 0000 steel wool and oil. Not vinegar. No hot water is involved either. Read the label on the bluing bottle.
Light rust is removed with 0000 steel wool and oil. Not vinegar. No hot water is involved either. Read the label on the bluing bottle.
Lee Enfield
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Republic of Alberta
Boil or rinse your gun with boiling water to remove salts
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Try rinsing the vinegar off with a hot water/baking soda mix, vinegar is acidic and the alkali of the baking soda will neutralize the acid. I've used vinegar to remove rust from badly rusted motorcycle tanks, you have to neutralize the acid with baking soda and dispel any water in the tank with methyl hydrate or 99% isopropyl alcohol quick or flash rust is an issue. It happens quickly but I find the baking soda rinse is an important step.
I think your heating process is backwards to how bluing would normally be done by dipping the part in hot blueing as any piece of steel no matter how clean will condense moisture initially when heated up. Like the other guys say stay away from the acidic vinegar and warm it up not in excess of 150*F then spray it and wipe it down with flammable brake kleen and lint free rags while still warm then blue. Why flammable regular brake kleen?, because its a straight petroleum/alcohol product that leaves no residue and the non flammable stuff dries poorly and is listed as a carcinogen.--Dieseldog!
I wouldnt recommend vinigar for removing oil and rust.
Id use 99.99% isopropal(sp) alcohol. That should leave the surface clean from any acid that will cause rust.
Also dont use a propane torch, the burning process creates water vapour. Use a heat gun.
Id use 99.99% isopropal(sp) alcohol. That should leave the surface clean from any acid that will cause rust.
Also dont use a propane torch, the burning process creates water vapour. Use a heat gun.
Here's a two cents worth: vinegar is the best bluing and rust remover for guns aside from electrolysis. Phosphoric acid etchs the metal, hydrochloric is too harsh and toxic. Vinegar is ideal. Flash rust can be prevented in two ways: baking soda water, or dip the receiver in hard-boiling water for a few minutes and convert the rust to black (rust bluing) then use a tooth brush to remove the loose stuff and promptly re oil.
There's a thought that the harsher the chemical the better with this stuff but I've tried a lot of different rust bluing and rust removal chemicals and vinegar tops out for removing rust and old bluing, so long as it's neutralized in soda water.
I'm pretty sure the actions on most Lee Enfields were oil blackened.
There's a thought that the harsher the chemical the better with this stuff but I've tried a lot of different rust bluing and rust removal chemicals and vinegar tops out for removing rust and old bluing, so long as it's neutralized in soda water.
I'm pretty sure the actions on most Lee Enfields were oil blackened.
