I love bubba!
- Thread starter ratherbefishin
- Start date
I respect your opinion
But the mosin nagant (my favorite milsurp followed by the no4 mark 1) can only be really appreciated with a better rear sight. LE however have the best sights of any milsurp except maybe the M1 garand but benefit from a diet and a free floated barrel a few inches shorter than stock. Also a sporterised flush magazine gives a much better place to put your hand when shooting standing. I have a no4 that i got already sporterised and it is a prized possesion and I am building a lee in 44 mag in the next little while.
But the mosin nagant (my favorite milsurp followed by the no4 mark 1) can only be really appreciated with a better rear sight. LE however have the best sights of any milsurp except maybe the M1 garand but benefit from a diet and a free floated barrel a few inches shorter than stock. Also a sporterised flush magazine gives a much better place to put your hand when shooting standing. I have a no4 that i got already sporterised and it is a prized possesion and I am building a lee in 44 mag in the next little while.
As long as you're putting a .45 barrel on one that's already buggered 
That said, i don't mind previously Bubba'd wood that much. what's done is done, and can't be put back, so no use crying about it. Much of the collector value is gone, so I can get a well made, decent, semi historical rifle for under $150 bucks. Then, someday, I might be able to "restore" it given time, money, and inclination. Bubba'd metal makes me cringe, but again, there's not much that can be done about it.
Cutting up a milsurp in full wood/as issued condition? Give your head a shake. Sell it to someone who will appreciate it, and buy 3 already sporterized ones for the same price if that's what you want.
That said, i don't mind previously Bubba'd wood that much. what's done is done, and can't be put back, so no use crying about it. Much of the collector value is gone, so I can get a well made, decent, semi historical rifle for under $150 bucks. Then, someday, I might be able to "restore" it given time, money, and inclination. Bubba'd metal makes me cringe, but again, there's not much that can be done about it.Cutting up a milsurp in full wood/as issued condition? Give your head a shake. Sell it to someone who will appreciate it, and buy 3 already sporterized ones for the same price if that's what you want.
Really? The mosin is the only rifle I can shoot & be expected to perform consistently because of the the rear sight & I have never seen a LE that shot better as a sporter that full wood. Most of the justification for sportering a rifle is emotional ie "its so much lighter & handier". I don't think filling off a bayo lug made my No5 any lighter but it sure did f**k its value. Piles of corpses that used to shoot back don't lie, milsurps work just fine as issued.
Cut down the wood!!!!!!!!! Drill & Tap!!!!!!!!!
what will they think of next?????????
Please tell me those were Indian-manufactured SMLE's ?
a rifle ia a mechanical device
And as a mechanical device it can always be improved. I respect your opinion but when LE rifles were converted to 308 snipers all the extra forend was removed and the barrels floated . Mostly because the advent of high speed photography and a better understanding of harmonics as it relates to ballistics showed that this was the way to go. The only way to know for sure is to take a full wood rifle and optimise a load for it then remove the stock and repeat and see waht happens.
And as a mechanical device it can always be improved. I respect your opinion but when LE rifles were converted to 308 snipers all the extra forend was removed and the barrels floated . Mostly because the advent of high speed photography and a better understanding of harmonics as it relates to ballistics showed that this was the way to go. The only way to know for sure is to take a full wood rifle and optimise a load for it then remove the stock and repeat and see waht happens.
When the brits did the l42, they used a heavy barrel to change the barrel harmonics. Regular enfields do not have that advantage. Try a ten shot string in both versions to compare.
I hope I don't get flamed
, but the top one does look pretty spiffy....I remember spending many hours trying to understand the "foretip-pressure" conversation re: Lee-Enfields...
...suffice it to say, I'll defer to the opinions of others on the matter ! 
Bubba, schmubba. An awful lot of people take a perfectly beautiful pickup truck, put wannabe stacks on it, more lights than a herd of snowplows. Drives me nuts (mind you, my wife says that ain't exactly a x-country drive)! but so what, as long as they like it. Also, bubba projects often lead to bigger and better things. How many guys out there with very nice custom jobs started off with a bubba job they did themselves, only to gain new skills or new appreciation of quality gunsmithing.l More bubbas=more people shooting=a very good thing.
Please tell me those were Indian-manufactured SMLE's ?
Chrome 'parade' rifle is a Lithgow
Pink & blue is a Ishapore.
The inspiration for the colour scheme
http://www.britten.co.nz/
desporteriser i think you are right
It seems that every knowledgeable person says that LE work much better with upward pressure on the barrel. Does anyone want to share some crow with me? Its ok a little tough but ok. Do you know why this is? I cant find a real explantion of why this is so. I will try some devcon and bed the remaining forestock to the reciever. Does heat effect the barrel more than on other rifles? Or is the barrel material just more prone to whip than more modern steel?. I know the brits did exhaustive testing and found that the accepted method of bedding the LE was best. But was a conclusion ever reached as to why? I am going to try and find out. thank you in advance for your help.
It seems that every knowledgeable person says that LE work much better with upward pressure on the barrel. Does anyone want to share some crow with me? Its ok a little tough but ok. Do you know why this is? I cant find a real explantion of why this is so. I will try some devcon and bed the remaining forestock to the reciever. Does heat effect the barrel more than on other rifles? Or is the barrel material just more prone to whip than more modern steel?. I know the brits did exhaustive testing and found that the accepted method of bedding the LE was best. But was a conclusion ever reached as to why? I am going to try and find out. thank you in advance for your help.
- Location
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MILSPEC called for a forend tip bearing on the No4 with a pressure of 2-7lbs required to break contact between barrel and forend. Ditto for the P14/M1917and the M1903 Springfield.
Having said that, there was an approved alternative for bedding the No4 with barrel contact between the 2 rearmost lightening cuts in the forend and no contact at the forend tip. There are exceptions to every rule as I have found that M1903s can shoot very well with a fully floated barrel-provided that the upper surface of the barrel doesn't come into contact with the lower surface of the upper band. The M1903 barrel is considerably more massive than the No4.
The forend tip contact was believed necessary to dampen barrel harmonics and allow the barrel to "whip" in a consistent manner when fired.
