I need some Tokarev help!

Gillen1

Gillen1

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So I'm having issues with my Tokarev and hoping that someone on here has some advise for me. It's a 1942 frame and I am assuming a post war frame since it has fine slide serrations but is numbers matching.

1st. The supposed split pin to take out the firing pin, isn't a split pin. It was a solid pin with an indent on the one side. I tried to take it out, but the pin wont budge and well now looks a little worse off! Is it possible that during the refurb process they put in a different pin that is not easy to get out? I'm pretty much left with the option of just bashing the hell out of it and replacing the pin.

2.nd and most importantly, it seems to have feed issues once it gets 4-5 magazines through it. Now I think it could be the extractor since it seems to leave an empty casing in the chamber and then it gets pushed up into the barrel again and locks up the slide. I have to strip the gun apart to get the shell out and it's a pain in the ass to do that at the range. Seems to happen more with surplus ammo, but not entirely sure. Any hints.

3rd. The firing pin mark on the primer looks really hard, almost like it's tearing it.


If anyone has any helpful tips or resources I'd be really great-full. I really like the gun, but all of these issues make me very frustrated and leave the gun at home. I could just sell it but I wouldn't feel right passing this pistol off until the issues are fixed.
 
1st., it is not a split pin, it is a pin with kind of a flat screw driver side serration, put a small screw driver into it and tap with a hammer, it should be go true out; however, yes I saw some pins replaced by other than original, even with a screw which was cut at the other hand...., be aware to the spring pin action, put a finger on the pin in order to retain it.

2nd. in the slide, push the extractor retainning pin and remove the extractor, you will see a tiny tiny srping, 3-4 mm long in the hole of the extractor, maybe it is full of cosmoline, clean it and put white grease,...

3rd. once the 1st. step done, clean the firing pin and the spring, this maybe your problems, put it back with white grease...

4th. to put back the firing pin, the serration of it must be facing the to the top of the slide...
 
Thanks Tazik, but the firing pin retaining pin is pretty beat up, I never saw anything that would fit a screw driver in there originally and have tried the screwdriver before with no luch. I will try to take apart the extractor and grease it up though, thanks for the tips!
 
I would like to help but after reading your post I have trouble imagining what you describe. Pictures would be priceless.
If your gun has fine serrations and it is Russian then I doubt it is from 1942. All the fine serration guns I have seen were post-war and 1942 is in the middle of it.

I have never seen a Tokarev without a split pin in that spot. Did you use a proper split pin punch? Simple thing to make really. It is a punch with a groove on the bottom to squeeze the two sides of the split pin together when you tap it.

Are you using surplus steel ammo? (The steel lacquered stuff?) It sounds to me like your barrel is heating up and the lacquered rounds are sticking.

My TT-33's do put a decent dent in the primers but I have never seen one 'tear'.
 
I will try to put some pictures up tonight. But the frame is 1942, but the slide I assume has been force matched during the refurb process. I am 100% sure it was not a split pin, and once I have time I will have to try with a screwdriver because upon further examination it looks like there is one fine line I can see that may work.
I am using surplus rounds, so they may be sticking, but it seems most people use surplus rounds so I don't understand why this problem is more common.

Maybe my primer strikes are just really big dents, but they are a odd shape and not circular, almost like its hitting and then the firing pin is still touching when the bullet is getting extracted and dragging on the primer still.
 
With that stove pipe problem I did exactly what tazic mentioned. I also clean the surplus ammo with a dry lube. I had the same problem and now I have countless rounds through it without an issue. Good luck.
 
Don't tear the pistol down to remove a stuck case! Take the base rod from your gun cleaning kit (any one will work), slide it down the bore of a verified clear and safe firearm, and just tap the empty casing out from the bore end. Takes seconds! Really, you should have something like that in your range kit! Got the cleaning rod that came with your pistol?

As to the date and details, your pistol (if with the small grip marks) is not a '42 Russian, though the frame may be. It's a collection of parts during a refurb. The Russian '42 will have the coarse grip lines at the rear of the slide! The fact that your Tok is a collection of refurb parts may be part of the reason why you are having issues... perhaps it needs a bit of tuning to get it to all smoothly work together. This would also explain why your firing pin ass'y does not appear to be standard for a '42 Tula Tok.
 
And matching number forced by marking the number with electric tool do not equal matching number to me, if you cannot resplve the problem by taking every thing apart clea it and lub, well...you might want to consider buying another one (good polish unissued) and keep this one for parts :eek:)

..... I have 3 Tok....,first one is for parts but still fun to shoot anyway...
 
Porschemann, I have to tear down the pistol to get the case out since the slide locks shut when this jam happens. If I can catch the jam before the slide goes back (usually I can, but other shooters don't) I can simply pull out the shell, but if the jam happens and another round goes in behind it, its locked up solid. I have to pull the magazine out and empty the stuck live round then pull the stuck shell.

And yes, the frame is 42 and I assume everything else was refurb parts, but I still like to tell people its from 42!

I will take a good look at the extractor spring and see which way it faces, my extractor does stick out a bit and is not perfectly flush. I will also try cleaning the ammo, any recommendations on which dry lube works best?
 
tazik said:
And matching number forced by marking the number with electric tool do not equal matching number to me, if you cannot resplve the problem by taking every thing apart clea it and lub, well...you might want to consider buying another one (good polish unissued) and keep this one for parts :eek:)

..... I have 3 Tok....,first one is for parts but still fun to shoot anyway...
Click to expand...

I will completely disassemble it tonight and see. I will also lube up all the problem areas and hopefully have it fixed. If not I will sell it for parts since I don't plan on buying another one! Just bought a house and the wife will kill me if I buy anymore guns now! If I can't get the fp retaining pin out, I will just boil the slide to hopefully remove any dirt.

The slide is not electro penciled, it is stamped in the metal to match the frame serial number, but I assume its easy to grind off the old number and make a new one.

Really appreciate everyone's help! I have been very frustrated with the gun. It did not always jam like this when I first got it. Ran probably 200 new mfg rounds through it without a problem, and it seems to have gotten worse, especially when i took it out on sat.
 
The lube is called One Shot with dyna glide. I'm pretty sure it helps cause if I fire off all the rounds I cleaned I have no problems. Then after about 30-40 dirty rounds I will start having issues.
 
Roussy06 said:
The lube is called One Shot with dyna glide. I'm pretty sure it helps cause if I fire off all the rounds I cleaned I have no problems. Then after about 30-40 dirty rounds I will start having issues.
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Seems to be my problem too, I can get 3-4 magazines through the gun with no problems, then it acts up a bit. I guess I will just have to deal with a fussy Tokarev and try to clean it out while im shooting at the range.
 
Got it... mine has never done that. Yeah, if the slide is shut and jambed, I can see a problem. But tell me, if it jambs shut, is it AFTER it has fired? or does it jamb shut on misfires? If on a misfire, do you do a double strike on it? I get about 1 out of 25 shots that FTF, but manually cocking the hammer and doing a re-strike has always fired it off.. I use the 1953 MilSurp ammo too and have never had an issue with a jamb. If it is jambed AFTER the round is fired off, can you still not put a cleaning rod down the bore to both push the slide back as well as extract the spent casing?
Just trying to picture what is the sequence of events on your pistol that is causing the jambs...
 
I'll do my best to describe it. Also a point to note, this gun has never misfired and I have never had to re-strike a round.

So take it to the range, I did on Saturday and ran 2-3 magazines through with no issue. By the time I get to the 4th I start shooting, 2-3 rounds and then the slide locks back. When the slide is locked back with rounds in the mag still, the empty casing was halfway in the chamber still, but being pushed up from the rear by the next round in the magazine. So what I do is hold the slide back, pull out the mag and the next round falls out since it seems to be half released. I then pull out the casing. IF my hand slips or I am not able to get the mag out with one hand since it is stuck, sometimes the slide will go forward and then the round is jammed in and it's locked up. Almost as if the extractor is still holding the round in it. I will push on the back of the extractor and pull the barrel out and then remove the casing. I must admit I have never tried to push the shell out with a cleaning rod since I am never sure if it has a live round in it. I'm pretty quick at field stripping it now haha.

From everything Ive heard here today I think my extractor may just be dirty or have a broken spring. I also ordered a new firing pin retaining pin from Tradex since I may end up having to drill out my other one if I can't get it free.

I'm also going to clean my surplus rounds and use some graphite dry lube to hopefully have them feed smoother.

Porschemann said:
Got it... mine has never done that. Yeah, if the slide is shut and jambed, I can see a problem. But tell me, if it jambs shut, is it AFTER it has fired? or does it jamb shut on misfires? If on a misfire, do you do a double strike on it? I get about 1 out of 25 shots that FTF, but manually cocking the hammer and doing a re-strike has always fired it off.. I use the 1953 MilSurp ammo too and have never had an issue with a jamb. If it is jambed AFTER the round is fired off, can you still not put a cleaning rod down the bore to both push the slide back as well as extract the spent casing?
Just trying to picture what is the sequence of events on your pistol that is causing the jambs...
Click to expand...
 
Gillen1 said:
Well, tried to examine the extractor tonight, but I can not get that pin out. No matter how hard I tried it wont budge.
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You are trying to drive the extractor pin out from the bottom correct? From the side that is internal when the gun is assembled? You can see the bottom of the round extractor pin in this picture just above the part marked extractor. This is the side you need to be tapping on the pin to drive it out with the punch.
imgp5040a.jpg


I had FTE problems with my first TT33. I created a thread here: http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?690260-Tokarev-TT-33-FTE-problem
It took a few weeks of work to resolve but it was worth it in the end. This first TT33 was war time production and it really showed. The finish was pretty crude. When I purchased my second TT33 it was a post war gun (fine serrations) and the quality of finish was greatly improved. I have run a few thousand rounds through it with no problems.

Pictures of your gun would really help.
 
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I am trying to drive it out from the side you mentioned, no movement whatsoever. I wish I could put some pictures up, but the camera packed away as I am moving this weekend! Cell phone can't get the details I need.

I will check out your thread and see if I can find answers. But one thing I now notice is that the extractor towards the claw end is not flush with the side of the slide and tapers in a bit, is that normal?


Clotho said:
You are trying to drive the extractor pin out from the bottom correct? From the side that is internal when the gun is assembled? You can see the bottom of the round extractor pin in this picture just above the part marked extractor. This is the side you need to be tapping on the pin to drive it out with the punch.
imgp5040a.jpg


I had FTE problems with my first TT33. I created a thread here: http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?690260-Tokarev-TT-33-FTE-problem
It took a few weeks of work to resolve but it was worth it in the end. This first TT33 was war time production and it really showed. The finish was pretty crude. When I purchased my second TT33 it was a post war gun (fine serrations) and the quality of finish was greatly improved. I have run a few thousand rounds through it with no problems.

Pictures of your gun would really help.
Click to expand...
 
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