I need someone who will teach me to reload at Dillon 650 progressive press.
- Thread starter Veps13
- Start date
- Location
- West Quebec
I would go over the manual and familiarize my self with the setup and adjust the dies etc before the event..
Veps13.
Reading the manual is your best bet. Then set it up and have that manual close by. Setting up your dies is the biggest time consumer and is the most important to get it to work like it should. Once the dies are in and set run a half dozen brass through it with no primers, powder and see how they come out even set and crimp a bullet for a dummy round. Once all is set up for the dies get your powder throw measuring the correct amount of powder. Load up the primers and start out slow and before you know it you will have a cadence going for you, it may not be fast at first but it will pick up temp as you do more and more rounds.
Good Luck and Happy Reloading.
Ken.
Reading the manual is your best bet. Then set it up and have that manual close by. Setting up your dies is the biggest time consumer and is the most important to get it to work like it should. Once the dies are in and set run a half dozen brass through it with no primers, powder and see how they come out even set and crimp a bullet for a dummy round. Once all is set up for the dies get your powder throw measuring the correct amount of powder. Load up the primers and start out slow and before you know it you will have a cadence going for you, it may not be fast at first but it will pick up temp as you do more and more rounds.
Good Luck and Happy Reloading.
Ken.
willywonka519
CGN Regular
- Location
- Alliston, ON
I run a 650, load 9mm. Located in Mississauga. If you're still looking for someone to help get you started, shoot me a pm.
If I was still in the GTA I'd help, but since I'm not, here's a few little things that may help.
1) adjust your sizing die first, then run a few cases through and put a few aside, once you're happy they're sized correctly (case checked etc)
2) it takes about 10 pulls of the handle to get a primer into position the first time you load primers
3) I like to prime a couple of cases - to use to measuring powder throw - either by hand or on my SS press, or you can do a single primer by simply placing the primer on the dillon plunger and placing the case in pos 2.
4) Learn how to get cases into and out of pos 2 easily - it really helps when you want to adjust powder throw - I usually zero my scale with the primed case and then adjust for power throw until it's where I want it
5) now that you've got accurate powder, use one of the primed cases to set up your seating die, once that's adjusted, you can do the same for crimping using the same cases you originally primed. Once that's done, you should be good to go.
6) make sure your feeding wedge is set right, there's different positions for pistol v/s rifle cases, rtfm on that one. Also make sure the case drop tube in in the right way - if not cases get stuck.
7) Changing primer size and caliber conversions are easy enough - the manual is very good for that.
8) now you're ready to drop in primers, run about 8 pulls off the handle and then drop in cases. Get your bullet supply ready to go
9) run a round or two thru to powder and double check you powder weight - adjust if necessary. If it's all good, run them thru, add bullet and seat. Check the first couple for coal and you should be ready to go.
10) remember to do the "down stroke" properly to seat the primer - this is just something you have to learn and remember, it's usually not a huge amount of force. If you have any snagging or it just doesn't feel right seating the primer, it probably isn't, so take it out of pos 2 and check the primer seating. I find I have issues with federal primers on.223 (not crimped cases even), so I tend to use Win or CCI or .223
11 Google Dillon spring adjustment or something like that to find the vid about shortening the détente ball spring to cut down on the powder being thrown out of the case when the shell plate moves. This is really annoying and cutting the spring a little will help cut this down. Alternately, Murray Gardner was selling a bearing set that also helps a lot with this - recommend it if you can get it.
12) go slow at first, all these claims of people doing 800 rounds per hour make me laugh. Between re-filling the powder measure, adding cases, re-loading primer tubes, re-filling your bullet tray, moving out complete rounds, it takes time to do all of the ancillary tasks to make the machine work.
13) don't overfill the case feeder, too many and it will slow down or sometimes just not move. Also a little spray lube in the case feeder helps move things along
14) I usually stop when the output box fills up to do a visual inspection of the completed rounds. I lay them all out in rows looking for any case issues, the occasional backwards primer or any other issues. Then they go into bags or ammo cases depending on what I'm loading.
15) Plan for a few hours the first few times you load. I usually plan for at least 3 hours from the time I put my coffee cup down to the time I'm done. If I'm loading .223, that usually means 800-1000 rounds will be done. I always take my time, there's no prize for getting finished fast, but there can be a big penalty for being sloppy.
16) get a powder check - it's mandatory imho, should help eliminate any squib rounds
17) Get extra quick change kits for each caliber - they consist of a powder measure, tool head and stand. That way you leave all your dies and powder measure in place and just swap out the tool head and fine tune if you need to. Saves mucho time.
18) I usually plan to run batches of either small primers or large primers back to back whenever possible - saves time on primer changeover.
That's all I can think of for now, PM me if you have any specific questions and above all, have fun and be careful.
1) adjust your sizing die first, then run a few cases through and put a few aside, once you're happy they're sized correctly (case checked etc)
2) it takes about 10 pulls of the handle to get a primer into position the first time you load primers
3) I like to prime a couple of cases - to use to measuring powder throw - either by hand or on my SS press, or you can do a single primer by simply placing the primer on the dillon plunger and placing the case in pos 2.
4) Learn how to get cases into and out of pos 2 easily - it really helps when you want to adjust powder throw - I usually zero my scale with the primed case and then adjust for power throw until it's where I want it
5) now that you've got accurate powder, use one of the primed cases to set up your seating die, once that's adjusted, you can do the same for crimping using the same cases you originally primed. Once that's done, you should be good to go.
6) make sure your feeding wedge is set right, there's different positions for pistol v/s rifle cases, rtfm on that one. Also make sure the case drop tube in in the right way - if not cases get stuck.
7) Changing primer size and caliber conversions are easy enough - the manual is very good for that.
8) now you're ready to drop in primers, run about 8 pulls off the handle and then drop in cases. Get your bullet supply ready to go
9) run a round or two thru to powder and double check you powder weight - adjust if necessary. If it's all good, run them thru, add bullet and seat. Check the first couple for coal and you should be ready to go.
10) remember to do the "down stroke" properly to seat the primer - this is just something you have to learn and remember, it's usually not a huge amount of force. If you have any snagging or it just doesn't feel right seating the primer, it probably isn't, so take it out of pos 2 and check the primer seating. I find I have issues with federal primers on.223 (not crimped cases even), so I tend to use Win or CCI or .223
11 Google Dillon spring adjustment or something like that to find the vid about shortening the détente ball spring to cut down on the powder being thrown out of the case when the shell plate moves. This is really annoying and cutting the spring a little will help cut this down. Alternately, Murray Gardner was selling a bearing set that also helps a lot with this - recommend it if you can get it.
12) go slow at first, all these claims of people doing 800 rounds per hour make me laugh. Between re-filling the powder measure, adding cases, re-loading primer tubes, re-filling your bullet tray, moving out complete rounds, it takes time to do all of the ancillary tasks to make the machine work.
13) don't overfill the case feeder, too many and it will slow down or sometimes just not move. Also a little spray lube in the case feeder helps move things along
14) I usually stop when the output box fills up to do a visual inspection of the completed rounds. I lay them all out in rows looking for any case issues, the occasional backwards primer or any other issues. Then they go into bags or ammo cases depending on what I'm loading.
15) Plan for a few hours the first few times you load. I usually plan for at least 3 hours from the time I put my coffee cup down to the time I'm done. If I'm loading .223, that usually means 800-1000 rounds will be done. I always take my time, there's no prize for getting finished fast, but there can be a big penalty for being sloppy.
16) get a powder check - it's mandatory imho, should help eliminate any squib rounds
17) Get extra quick change kits for each caliber - they consist of a powder measure, tool head and stand. That way you leave all your dies and powder measure in place and just swap out the tool head and fine tune if you need to. Saves mucho time.
18) I usually plan to run batches of either small primers or large primers back to back whenever possible - saves time on primer changeover.
That's all I can think of for now, PM me if you have any specific questions and above all, have fun and be careful.
