- Location
- SE corner Sk
No worries about any health conditions that could affect me. I'm 21 so lots of time to practice
I want to try checkering a gunstock
- Thread starter MilitaryCollectorMark
- Start date
No worries about any health conditions that could affect me. I'm 21 so lots of time to practice
Advice I got, get some scraps of walnut or other suitable wood and practice on than, not as simple as one thinks.
Grizz
Checkering and Carving of Gunstocks by Monte Kennedy. If you can find it there is an edition with patterns. I have a set of Rem Bart tools that I can sell if your interested PM me, By the way finish the stock before checkering, It makes the wood tougher and less likely to chip and is easier to see your cuts.
- Location
- SE corner Sk
I have some as well, my hands are toast now, had eyes dome 15 or so years ago.
Lots of good info here .
I started out recutting checkering on old shotguns mainly, as I seem to have lots kicking around.
Than work on little 22 rifles.
I found about one hour is all I wanted to do at a sitting.
Lighting is key, I always used a low light to check when near done as that really shows up any poor , high, etc points.
I always found ends at boarders where it went to hell, but also, if you are doing a new stock, don't cut all the borders first, that is one way I found to keep it neat.
I think I have about 6 or 7 handles, I use 20lpi , but lots of recutting seems to be 16 or 18 in US. Likely have 2 or 3 dozen ,new and used cutters
I have touched up cutters with fine diamond or saw files. Should have a little booklet somewhere, that I got when I started.
I have done 32 one time, but that was on pistol grips for myself, so did not matter about the many hours invested.
It is temping to go back and recut a line or two when 1/2 way done, not a good thing as then you end up having to redo the whole panel, finish, than touch up if required.
Trade EX has/ had one English cutter listed, I got one, when I was buying some stuff from Anthony one time. price was right.
Btw old tooth brushes are great to keep the lines clean when working, and when oil finish to clean out oils as you don't want it pooling when finishing the lines with what ever finish you use.
Lots of good info here .
I started out recutting checkering on old shotguns mainly, as I seem to have lots kicking around.
Than work on little 22 rifles.
I found about one hour is all I wanted to do at a sitting.
Lighting is key, I always used a low light to check when near done as that really shows up any poor , high, etc points.
I always found ends at boarders where it went to hell, but also, if you are doing a new stock, don't cut all the borders first, that is one way I found to keep it neat.
I think I have about 6 or 7 handles, I use 20lpi , but lots of recutting seems to be 16 or 18 in US. Likely have 2 or 3 dozen ,new and used cutters
I have touched up cutters with fine diamond or saw files. Should have a little booklet somewhere, that I got when I started.
I have done 32 one time, but that was on pistol grips for myself, so did not matter about the many hours invested.
It is temping to go back and recut a line or two when 1/2 way done, not a good thing as then you end up having to redo the whole panel, finish, than touch up if required.
Trade EX has/ had one English cutter listed, I got one, when I was buying some stuff from Anthony one time. price was right.
Btw old tooth brushes are great to keep the lines clean when working, and when oil finish to clean out oils as you don't want it pooling when finishing the lines with what ever finish you use.
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- Location
- SE corner Sk
- Location
- SE corner Sk
Very interesting!
Riflesmith
CGN Regular
- Location
- On The Line
Mr. Ullmans tools are the best hands down. Not really something you would need to start by any means but if you progress you would do well to try them. I have his carbide hand tools and use his power tool as well. Good luck and have fun!!
Yep. Good book, lots of patterns and tips for starting out a pattern, so it works, and lots of wisdom on making your own tools if you cannot buy them.
A three-square file (triangular) is handy for touching up 60 degree checkering, and a four-square for the 90 degree patterns.
Hunt around the web, and you can find patterns and instructions, for making a checkering cradle.
Brownells usually have them in stock with various lpi settings... Checkering itself is relatively easy once you have good marking and edge lines. How you lay and cut your initial lines determines the quality. For rifle stocks, it helps a lot to have a good rotating vise...
I am not one to take pictures of stuff, so I don't have any pictures of stocks, don't do a lot. Now I take pictures and put on the computer, have trouble finding them sometimes.
should have one of a 1911 that was engraved, rebuilt and reblued, but since I moved, can't find anything, should have one or two of my 47 Indian and a 43 HD, but can't find them either, Damn.
There is a power checkering rig made ,I seen a lady using it, scared the crap out of me when she started, but worked great if you where doing it full time.
i have never used carbide, but that would be the way to go , if you get into it , as cutters don't last very long, I tried on maple one time and that was a lot of work.
A power dental drill? now there is a thought????????
should have one of a 1911 that was engraved, rebuilt and reblued, but since I moved, can't find anything, should have one or two of my 47 Indian and a 43 HD, but can't find them either, Damn.
There is a power checkering rig made ,I seen a lady using it, scared the crap out of me when she started, but worked great if you where doing it full time.
i have never used carbide, but that would be the way to go , if you get into it , as cutters don't last very long, I tried on maple one time and that was a lot of work.
A power dental drill? now there is a thought????????
- Location
- SE corner Sk
Good morning all!
I was able to buy a brownells sold gunline camp perry 20 checkering set.
I was able to buy a brownells sold gunline camp perry 20 checkering set.
That's awesome.
Not sure what your game plan is but I have an old stock you can have if you pay for shipping.
Could practice layout and cutting on curves.
I never used a cradle so I can't comment on that, but good lighting is a must.
Think every one I've done, I first used some gel paint remover to first remove any 'hard finish" before cutting.
Figure heads wear out quick enough without having to also cut wood with a harden surface.
You'll be buying more regardless.
PM me if you want it.
Not sure what your game plan is but I have an old stock you can have if you pay for shipping.
Could practice layout and cutting on curves.
I never used a cradle so I can't comment on that, but good lighting is a must.
Think every one I've done, I first used some gel paint remover to first remove any 'hard finish" before cutting.
Figure heads wear out quick enough without having to also cut wood with a harden surface.
You'll be buying more regardless.
PM me if you want it.
- Location
- SE corner Sk
Sounds good! If I can't find anything locally I'll PM you!
