I went black... Build finished !

he wrote in the parts list the eliminator. Which... kinda looks like a suppressor if you'd say so...

To OP: I think you will be disapointed in a 7,5'' barrel with a 9'' rail as it is almost going to swallow the whole eliminator, and I think, though do not take my word for it, that the eliminator might be very tight in the troy
Here is my 7,5'' barrel with a 7'' rail and a dlask xb-1, which is the same lenght as the eliminator (± few mm) which I also have. Note that on the picture, it's difficult to see, but the xb-1 (same has noveske pig) has a smaller rear portion to fit a wrench. the Eliminator would extend just at the limit of the rail.




EDIT: I measured the outside diameter of the xb1 and eliminator. The eliminator has an outer diameter of 1,50''. The xb1 (like the noveske pig) has an outer diameter of 1,38''. Now, the bad news, most places you will see the troy rail having an inside diameter of 1,4''. I cannot tell wether this is hearsay or factual as I do not have any of those rails, but surely you would be disapointed trying to fit the eliminator in. So either part of your build will have to be replaced

Pardon my ignorance, but what is the "thing" on the bottom of the hand guard, near the muzzle?
 
Its a hand stop. For where the user keeps his hand on the rifle. Almost "muscle memory" during dynamic stress. Keeping it Caveman simple. It also is something else you can put on your AR for estetics. Lol!
 
Not keen on the rivet scratching the inside of the mag-well though.

I understand it's an issue with just about all riveted mags. LAR's from here on out.

Drill out the rivet (yes, I know, you'll be breaking the law for about 15 seconds so double lock your doors. ;)) Countersink the rivet hole and replace the original rivet with a 1/8" diameter countersunk pop rivet (available at Crappy Tire for about $6/100). Fits flush to the mag surface and no hangup or drag on the mag well. It works like charm on PMAGs & aluminum mags.
 
The KNS pins are more for when you eventually upgrade the trigger, as the setup makes it a 2-minute/nick-free process.

I must admit, I've never had a use for them, but during times of weakness when I feel like buying something, I have thought about incorporating them into One of my builds now and again.
Not a big fan of the trigger systems though.
 
The KNS pins are more for when you eventually upgrade the trigger, as the setup makes it a 2-minute/nick-free process.

Which process ? Removing the trigger group ? Are constant adjustments or servicing required with Geiselle triggers ?

Sorry, I don't understand... :confused:

* after installing my DPMS lower parts kit, I function-tested (A-ok) and got a feel for the trigger break.
It's a heavier (guessing about 6 lbs) single stage, but breaks decent and can be tweaked anyway.
 
sjinstalled1340427222.jpg
 
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