I would like to buy .308 but...

The link that you posted is mostly British or European posters so the legal approval that they mention is not an issue here.

Cost is a valid concern for ammo if you are going to be shooting much. If you are serious about accuracy then you don't want to be buying the cheapo bulk stuff in any chambering. To shoot a lot and get the very best results reloading is the only way to go. 308 will still cost a little more than 223 thou.

So far as the recoil issues and developing bad habits go I think its something that can happen with any centerfire. The cost of ammo may even be a motivating factor in making a shooter concentrate more and not get into a habit of saying good enough and letting the shot break off target. Every shooter reacts to muzzle blast and recoil differently.

The answer? Shoot a lot of .22 lr. Then go shoot another couple thousand rounds and try to get it to group at 200+ yards. You will learn a heck of a lot. Save the big bore for every 5th range session or target.
And there is nothing wrong with a lot of the other chamberings in between either. Look for one that has a lot of ammo options if you need to rely on factory shells. (maybe a 7mm-08 or 243? I don't know - only shells I don't reload are .22s) Go for a 6mmbr or a 6.5X55 or 7mmTCU or something if you reload.
 
Obtunded said:
Start your long range target shooting by getting really good at your short range shooting. A factory gun that shoots 1" at 100 yards is going to group a minimum of 10" at 1000, providing all else is equal.

Chances are, at this stage of the game, inconsistencies in your loading, a factory barrel/throat and a neophyte approach to condition reading (even WITH perfect technique) will produce groups far larger than that.

Even Formula-1 drivers learned to drive on their mother's Renault or Fiat... A 308 is not my first choice for a newer long-distance shooter, but at least you didn't ask for a gun to hunt gophers, moose with AND shoot long distance with.

I'd get a 223 and learn to make that little cartridge work for you. It WILL shoot well beyond 1000M accurately, but it is a schitty Moose gun at 1000 meters.
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I disagree. Most F1 drivers started in go-kart on closed circuits. I competed in go-kart in my teens and believe those ground-hugging machines can and do flip-over.
Now about guns, shooting a 22 is nothing like a 308. Recoil has to be dealt with and flinching has to be overcome. This won't ever happen with a 22. EVER!
 
"Recoil has to be dealt with and flinching has to be overcome. This won't ever happen with a 22. EVER!"
legiOn
I don't agree.
Yes it goes without saying ,recoil is heavier with a 308 and the likelihood of developing a flinch is greater - but there are no absolutes. Just as developing a flinch with a 22LR can occur, perhaps not from the recoil but from shot anticipation,performance anxiety etc.
It is believed by many shooting coaches that shooting air rifle is the telltale of
shooter errors. Virtually,no recoil and flinches can still occur !
There is no "...won't ever happen..." in shooting !
Cheers
 
shootemup said:
Get an M14 and start scrounging about for surplus ammo!
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Yeah...if your idea of "Long Range" is 100 yards. You'll piss so much money into an M305 to get it to the same level as a stock 10FP or 700P that you'd have been better off going with the bolt rifle from the start.

The 308 is a fine choice for a starting rifle. I'd tell you to pick up a 10 FP, 700P or a M70 Stealth, top it with a Farrell Picatinny base and rings and a Bushnell 3200 10x and you're off to the races. Upgrade the scope later on if/when you find the 3200 lacking and the stock if you find you don't like the one on whichever rifle you choose.
 
BigUglyMan said:
Yeah...if your idea of "Long Range" is 100 yards. You'll piss so much money into an M305 to get it to the same level as a stock 10FP or 700P that you'd have been better off going with the bolt rifle from the start.

The 308 is a fine choice for a starting rifle. I'd tell you to pick up a 10 FP, 700P or a M70 Stealth, top it with a Farrell Picatinny base and rings and a Bushnell 3200 10x and you're off to the races. Upgrade the scope later on if/when you find the 3200 lacking and the stock if you find you don't like the one on whichever rifle you choose.
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I agree. Except I'd save up for the optics and get a higher level scope. Buy it right and buy it once. It's cheaper in the long run.
 
IMHO, go with the .308, yes it gets very costly, but the versatility of the .308, compared to the .223 is what sold it for me. Reloading componants are readily available and helps to cut down the cost. As for possibly starting with a smaller cartridge and then moving up to a larger one just to eliminate the "flinch", unless you've got unlimited amounts of $$ to build 2 LR rigs, just stick with the .308

But i do agree, get used to shooting smaller distances before you move up to the bigger ranges. And most 700 actions are available left handed as well
 
To comlpement your high power shooting and get more trigger time at substantially less cost you may want to shoot 22LR . Get a rifle that will be acceptably accurate and shoot groups at 100 and 200m. 50 rounds of even mid-grade 22 LR ammo $7-$8 will be far less costly than the least expensive
HP ammo. The downside is that there is a tendency to shoot a lot more.
50-100 rounds in 2-3 hrs of careful shooting.
 
IF (and that is a big if).... you can find one, The Remington 700 SPS Varmint is made in Left hand in .308. Mine is very accurate and dependable and only cost $559 from Cabela's. They are few and far between however...but due to the 26" heavy barrel, it is very easy on the recoil as the extra weight helps eliminate some of the "kick".
 
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As previously suggested, find a decent .223 Rem and spend a year practicing at shorter ranges of 100-300 yds. Make this gun shoot well first and then move back 300-500 and on. If you want a .308 later you,ll find decently build ones shoot quite well at 1000 yds.

M.
 
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