I'd say this scope moved, how say you?UPDATE last post

Kelly Timoffee

Kelly Timoffee

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After having some difficulties during a recent load development and just by chance, today I was checking some seating depth on some new bullets.As the rifle sat on the work bench I noticed that the space between the ring and the turret looked like it had moved(become wider)rear ring.

You can also faintly see the difference in color where the tube is more shinny where it looks like the ring insert caused friction.

Top photos are after 20 rounds.





These photos are after 40 rounds.





I know they aren't at the same angle but to me that space has increased , I just want more eyes to see it and give their opinion.
 
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i see what your talking about with the marks on the scope tube and i agree that it does looked like it moved.. right off the bat , i also see your front ring is torqued down funny, tight at the front, gap at the back (most noticeable in 2nd pic) i know the zee rings have the "self aligning" insert but i would assume that even pressure is still required for them to hold the scope properly
 
I rechecked the rings and re-installed them , but just now I went and rotated the top of the ring 180 degrees, the gap difference was not there.When looking closely directly from the side you can see that this is the way they were machined, the photo does exaggerate the effect also.

The right side of the lower front ring is thinner than the left if you look closely also.

ultimate_monkey said:
i see what your talking about with the marks on the scope tube and i agree that it does looked like it moved.. right off the bat , I also see your front ring is torqued down funny, tight at the front, gap at the back (most noticeable in 2nd pic) i know the zee rings have the "self aligning" insert but i would assume that even pressure is still required for them to hold the scope properly
Click to expand...
 
Yar, I also suspect the front ring may be the culprit. Loosen it and then leapfrog your way around tightening each screw a little bit at a time to try to keep it level. Takes some time, but may save you some trouble in the long run.

Also, do you have a torque wrench to check how tight the screws are? It does come in handy when checking how altering one screw affects the others. I'll go through and torque all the screws, and then when I doublecheck screw 1 it's changed by about 5 in/lb. Last scope I mounted I had to go over the screws four or five times before they all stayed even.

Alternatively, I have heard that if you lap the rings too much they might not be able to get a proper grip on the scope tube. But that doesn't seem very likely here. I just wanted to throw in a random internet fact.
 
That's the way its done, jump around until they stop turning to put even tension on the upper cap for max grip on the scope. Watch your gaps and keep them even as you go while also periodically checking your level. Improper torquing can cant a scope quite a bit. Once evenly torqued to mfr's specs they should never budge.
 
Something doesn't look right on the front ring. Maybe try removing and checking the inserts and check for obvious visible defects. If you don't see anything reassemble and watch the gaps as you tighten the screws.
 
Well, I fiddled, I played , I adjusted.

There are some inconsistencies in the rings but nothing that would seem to be an issue IMO.

Here is the inside of the inserts showing the movement although very hard to see the lines in the photo.



However this isn't the biggest issue I just discovered.

I figured I would do everything from scratch once again.Got the front ring off, noticed the back ring was wiggling a bit before i removed the top of the rear ring.Removed that ring top and then removed the scope.The risers have also loosened up, this is even after multiple tightening sessions.I had things so tight that I was in fear of breaking the screws.Yes, had the risers and rings positioned all the way forward in the slots.

I think, that I am just going to try find some taller rings if possible and eliminate the risers all together as well as beefier rings.

It seems that the small torx screws just may not have the strength to hold.

So the next question is what 30mm ring out there has the distance of 1" (or more) from the top of the rail to the bottom of the saddle?
 
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Most high end rings come in 1"+ heights. I'll cast my vote for Nightforce ultralights. I didn't even clean the oil out of the threads, just torqued to 25 in. lbs. until they stopped turning. My 34 oz. NXS hasn't budged. I was concerned myself with the risers, any play can loosen adjoining fasteners like your rings caps over time. I think Burris and Weaver make 1"+ 30mm rings for a less expensive option. Ive used Weaver 4 and 6 hole rings with good results.
 
My Burris signature z rings don't have a wide gap like those pics show. Mine are almost touching, maybe 1mm apart.
Princess auto sells a small torque wrench cheap, check it out.
 
Warne has Ultra highs at .935".


ETA: Sorry, posted before realizing there was a 2nd page.
 
Pretty obvious ... But did you confirm you have the correct 'pairing' of inserts per packaged instructions ......or they will not grip properly.
 
Clean all parts with aerosol brake cleaner especially the threads in the rings.

If you think you cleaned well, clean them 1 more time.

I have these rings on both my FTR rifles. Over 3000rds on 1 scope set up with no movement. Taken on and off without loosing zero. Traveled to the NM. In and out of cases and bounced all over the place. Zero has stayed put as has the scope.

When those bolts are tight, I have broken torx bits trying to get them loose. Very strong steel and they will hold.

SIII10-50X60 scope

But you need to keep aware of the cleaning then tightening of the bolts.

I will check the bolts periodically until they settle (don't want to over tight from the get go). They will stop budging and stay that way as long as you want.
Jerry

PS if the wrong inserts are used or lined up incorrectly, the ring will not hold.
 
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