If you need to re-finish a stock - a relatively conservative method of doing so....

Here's what I meant.

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And after:

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As you can see, if it is done right it hurts none of the original finish, it just cleans it thoroughly and without dousing it with a pile of chemicals.
 
I personally use a mixture of danish wood oil (natural boiled linseed oil) turpentine and white vinegar to clean my stocks going over them lightly with ultra fine steel wool and if there's any sort of coating eg. shellac or varnish that I want to get rid of I use heirloom furniture stripper. With that mixture I get great results.
 
I personally use a mixture of danish wood oil (natural boiled linseed oil) turpentine and white vinegar to clean my stocks going over them lightly with ultra fine steel wool and if there's any sort of coating eg. shellac or varnish that I want to get rid of I use heirloom furniture stripper. With that mixture I get great results.

That's very similar to what I use to treat stocks with. Danish Oil is a great product but it does have some polyurethane in the product and often tints wood/metal surfaces - this is why I decided to try something new!
 
That's very similar to what I use to treat stocks with. Danish Oil is a great product but it does have some polyurethane in the product and often tints wood/metal surfaces - this is why I decided to try something new!

I assume there are a number or products out there that call themselves danish oil but the stuff I use is made by tried and true and its 100% polymerized linseed oil with no polyurethane.
 
I was told to use "Easy Off" over cleaner to remove caked on grime and grease from an M1. It worked, along with mild encouragement with fine steel wool and a cotton cloth.
A had rubbed application thereafter with Birchwood Casey stock oil finished it nicely.
 
Previous abuse Steve. I have 'saved' quite a few rifles in the last few years. I hardly have time to shoot anymore for the amount of projects I've taken on.

Sometimes a stock has promise hidden under years of abuse. The steel wool technique is used when finess is required. A ham fisted individual will destroy the original finish on the wood if they don't know what they're doing. Steel on steel is bad too. But if you use it lightly on the wood it is perfectly safe. If you do t believe me check out the thread on my slow and ongoing restoration of my Ross MkI*. It was covered in mold and pigeon poop. Now it's gorgeous again.

Hi flying pig, I sort of got the impression you were doing it to all of them. Thanks for the further explanation.

Yikes mold and pigeon poop, okay I guess sometimes it is needed!

-Steve
 
One thing worth repeating is that the stocks in the original post are "orphans" that were not actually fitted to rifles when they were found in storage. In this case, I don't see any harm in stripping the old finish and applying a new oil finish.

That said, I would suggest something like Circa 1850 stripper instead of oven cleaner if you really want to refinish. Oven cleaner can be pretty harsh on wood.
 
You don't put it on and walk away. It doesn't take long to work and you wipe off the excess and any crud it raises. Don't knock it if you haven't tried it.

I still remember using gasoline to get rid of arsenal applied cosmoline as NOTHING else would remove it. That probably didn't do much for the wood and if you were not wearing rubber gloves (who did back then?) your skin would absorb the gasoline and you'd feel pretty sick afterwards .... ;>P

Ask me how I know .....
 
Yes, oven cleaner will work. There are a fair number of reports on the net though that say oven cleaner is not good for the wood. Supposedly it gets into the pores and damages the woods fiber long after you thought it quit working. I don't know how much of that is true because there are always varying reports on no matter what product is used.
 
I have a Ross Model 1910 Sporter that I bought a few years ago for only $100, and that was because the previous seller used Easy Off to strip the stock. He thought it was ruined, and it was in a pretty sad state; the wood grain was raised, and it was as dry as a bone. I was forced to use steel wool to smooth out the wood (it felt like a sea shell), and applied multiple coats of BLO. Ah well, his loss was my gain, I think it turned out pretty well, although any unit markings were obliterated from the butt stock.
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Yeah, I used oven cleaner once on a stock a long time ago and NEVER again. It really buggered up the wood. The stock was basically ruined before but if it was a valuable stock it would have destroyed whatever value was there in my opinion. It raised the grain so badly I had to sand it to get it smooth.

Now I have washed several stocks that had active mold growing on them in mineral spirits, then coated with RLO after with absolutely no noticeable damage to the wood so that's the way I would go. Other than being a bit cleaner then when I started, you would never be able to tell anything was done to them.
 
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