I've never seen one without a barrel on it, but the first thing I'd likely do is measure it all up to see if using an old barrel to make make a sleeve that threads into the action and can be threaded for something more conventional would work, think along the lines of the old barrel stub used on the sportco actions minus the raceway for the bolt lugs, either that or recut threads in the action. Which brings us to, if you're paying someone to do all this work, it would be cheaper to start with a savage action and a prefit barrel unless there is some serious importance to the wore out rifle.
If you were going to rebarrel a P14
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I've never seen one without a barrel on it, but the first thing I'd likely do is measure it all up to see if using an old barrel to make make a sleeve that threads into the action and can be threaded for something more conventional would work, think along the lines of the old barrel stub used on the sportco actions minus the raceway for the bolt lugs, either that or recut threads in the action. Which brings us to, if you're paying someone to do all this work, it would be cheaper to start with a savage action and a prefit barrel unless there is some serious importance to the wore out rifle.
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^ For sure!! I have been retired from work for coming up to 10 years - so my time amounts to "no cost" - I had bought various tools over the years - now getting to learn to use them - not unusual for me do stuff three or four times to get something "correct". As you say, not sure I would even consider many projects here if I had to pay someone to do the work.
FYI - those barrel tenon threads are "huge" - OD of the square threads circa 1.050" - this barrel blank is now about 1.200" diameter - does not leave much for a shoulder on that barrel to snug up to front face of P14 receiver. Extra "spice" to get it snugged up, and then get extractor cut lined up with right side bolt rail at same time. And get some clearance between rear of barrel and front end of the bolt. All that before chambering to get the belt recess to correct depth from the bolt face. Likely "old hat" for someone that knows how and has done previously - is a bit of an "adventure" for me.
FYI - those barrel tenon threads are "huge" - OD of the square threads circa 1.050" - this barrel blank is now about 1.200" diameter - does not leave much for a shoulder on that barrel to snug up to front face of P14 receiver. Extra "spice" to get it snugged up, and then get extractor cut lined up with right side bolt rail at same time. And get some clearance between rear of barrel and front end of the bolt. All that before chambering to get the belt recess to correct depth from the bolt face. Likely "old hat" for someone that knows how and has done previously - is a bit of an "adventure" for me.
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Check with Woodchopper, seems to me he just did some square thread work a short time ago. He likely has some good advice on the subject. - dan
I've never seen one done like that, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work. Just would have some dimensional restrictions fitting the "collar". Good idea. - dan
Google some of Tom Burgess' work on the P14/M17 rifles. Wonderful work. He had a great talent for these, and used to do them often in African cartridges. I corresponded with him a fair bit before he passed, extremely knowledgeable. - dan
Already had one rebarreled, late last year, easy peasy for a good gunsmith. Saw another that has some good starting points, but its a P14, so that 532 face is easy to stay with, I noticed the PRC family might be an easy choice. Once you start getting into redoing bolt faces, swapping bolts, etc etc, the price goes up pretty fast.
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You are correct about the case head diameter, but I think is like 1/4" longer than 30-06 and quite a bit longer than 303 British - but will fit, with bit of fussing, in a P14 action. I have a M1917 which is nearly identical receiver to P14 - is chambered by someone to 300 Weatherby Magnum, which I think is same length as the older 300 H&H. Whomever did that had to slightly modify a M1917 magazine - other than that, appears most of the parts started life as standard military M1917 stuff. An acquaintance tells me that the 308 Norma Mag was known as a "loud" 30-06 - with today's powders, I think it can be very close to factory 300 Win Mag - may have been similar for the 300 H&H - I do not know.
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With today's powders, the 300 H&H is most certainly more than just a +P 30-06. It is a great classic cartridge, and everyone should own one. The 308 Norma Mag nips right on the heels of the 300 Win Mag, all else being equal. Your acquaintance likely ran into someone with a rechambered 30-06. Even so, 308 Norma Mag factory ammo was pretty warm. I load for both, ballistically they are very close (along with the 30-338). The latter is likely the easiest to get brass for these days. - dan
There's nothing wrong with a P14 or M1917 action? They are big, strong actions that were very popular for use on the longer case cartridges back when magnum Mauser actions were N/A. The big drawback is that they require a bit of work to nice them up.
Bevan King offered me one in 404Jeff before he passed. I passed on that offer and have regretted it since. He used them a lot.
If I wanted an Enfield action on which to build a sporting rifle, I would start with one of the BSA sporter conversions. The hard work is already done on the receiver - rear bridge contoured, receiver drilled and tapped for scope bases and an aperture sight.
They do come up occasionally. Also the ones sold by Centurion some years back. The latter werent as nicely done as the BSA's though. I've seen some very nice sporters built on Enfields, and not just boomers. Knew a guy who had a beautiful 25-06 done by God knows who, but they sure did a wonderful job. They are a lot of work, but certainly ly can be worth it. - dan
Except there was a good reason Sir Charles made the .280 case as steep as he did: extraction. Of course anyone not afraid to oil their cases won't have to worry about hard extractions.
In a P14 there won't be any concerns over extraction of course.
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I've had a few. 264wm, 338wm, 416 Rigby. All magnum though.
Except there was a good reason Sir Charles made the .280 case as steep as he did: extraction. Of course anyone not afraid to oil their cases won't have to worry about hard extractions.
In a P14 there won't be any concerns over extraction of course.
The rifle I would convert is a factory sporter in .303 with a poor bore. From base to shoulder, a .303 tapers .059", a .35 Remington, .054. Pretty close. .35/.303 would be another possibility, but that means a custom reamer and dies.
