Improving your Norinco m93 trigger

alpining

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Hi all - I just wanted to relay my very positive experience further tweaking my Norinco m93 Woodsman clone. While the pistol worked just fine out of the box, I am a tinkerer and cannot resist trying to improve things. :D

Over the last year or so, I've done multiple complete disassemblies and polishing sessions of various internal components (pics posted in a dedicated thread in this forum). This work has successfully resulted in a pistol that will comfortably run subsonic ammo, minimized light strikes with formerly problematic brands of ammo, and smoothed up the cycling. Not to mention I can now handle the mags and clean the gun without worrying about cutting myself on one of the many extremely sharp edges that the gun came with...

While polishing the heck out of the firing control group smoothed up the trigger pull from 'gritty' to merely 'bumpy', the trigger on the m93 is not one of its strongest qualities. I thought it could get even better. Close inspection of my pistol showed that the magazine safety does not affect trigger pull AT ALL. So I turned my attention to the firing pin block safety. I had already polished these parts to a mirror shine, but I thought it might be made better still.

So I pulled the firing pin block safety plunger.

AMAZING difference. :eek: Frankly, it's a HUGE improvement for my pistol: With the FPBS in, take up and creep were one indistinguishable bumpy mush, and the reset was imperceptible. Take up is now wonderfully smooth, creep is quite short and very smooth (now limited by the hammer/sear engagement), release is crisp and predictable, and reset is clean and positive.

If you'd like to try it on your pistol, it is a simple operation to remove the FPBS: Just pull the slide off using the normal field strip routine, push out the retaining pin for the firing pin block safety plunger, and the plunger and spring underneath it will pop right out (that spring will launch if you're not careful). That's all. I think you can and should leave the FPBS retractor in as part of the hammer assembly - Look closely at it and you'll see why.

WARNING - If you do this modification, you will remove one of the safety features on your pistol. It could theoretically discharge if you drop it on the muzzle with a round in the chamber, even with the thumb safety engaged. For various reasons (one reason being that JMB did not include a FPBS in his design), personally, I am fine with this for my pistol. Use your judgment, of course.
 
So I pulled the firing pin block safety plunger.

Which one is it? thanks.

Fig-3.jpg
 
Sorry I can't help wit pin #25... but I want to say..

I've wasted money on a lot of things.. This gun was not a waste at all.. One of the best purchases I've ever made..

I'm excited someone is making it better....

That is all..
 
#25 pin, is it the forward or aft one that's in the groove in the frame the slide rides on? looks like there's 2 pins, not
sure what the other one is?
This pistol is running well after 300 rounds and a bit of polishing/tweaking...

Thanks !
Mark
 
Thank you very much fortaking the time to show us this. I love mine to best money ever spent I think this is the only norinco I have ever owned without any problems with it.
 
#25 pin, is it the forward or aft one that's in the groove in the frame the slide rides on? looks like there's 2 pins, not
sure what the other one is?
This pistol is running well after 300 rounds and a bit of polishing/tweaking...

Thanks !
Mark

Funny that you just wrote this now - I just today received my second m93 :)

The forward pin holds the ejector in place. I've never pulled this one, as the ejector seems to do its job just fine. It's the aft one you want to remove to free the firing pin block. On this second m93 it was quite a bit more difficult to remove: I had to use the smallest starter punch I had, then honestly I used a small size Philips head screwdriver for a few light whacks, then it was loose enough to tap out with the smallest jeweler's screwdriver I had. I think I'm going to get some smaller punches!

The pin itself measures 63 thousandths.
 
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Funny that you just wrote this now - I just today received my second m93 :)

The forward pin holds the ejector in place. I've never pulled this one, as the ejector seems to do its job just fine. It's the aft one you want to remove. On this second m93 it was quite a bit more difficult to remove: I had to use the smallest starter punch I had, then honestly I used a small size Philips head screwdriver for a few light whacks, then it was loose enough to tap out with the smallest jeweler's screwdriver I had. I think I'm going to get some smaller punches!

The pin itself measures 77.5 thousandths.

Thanks for the info, oddly enough, I'm deciding whether to pull the trigger, so to speak, on my second m93 as well.
One thing that had me stuck a bit is the torque on the front right side plate screw, had it back out and almost lost it after the first
outing (250 rounds). Too tight and it was binding the slide stop, mirror polish on side plate and stop fixed that right up.

Didn't realize the ejector came out, maybe try a chunk of 5/64 drill rod as a punch?
 
I'm a fan of loctite on those screws. Not necessary, as you noted, but cheap and easy peace of mind. All three sideplate screws on my new m93 were way too loose upon receipt.

I vote buy now: The price is not going to come down, and I wouldn't be surprised if they disappear from the market here entirely at some point.
 
Took mine to the range this weekend and it ran great. The rear sight came loose so I loc-tighted it. Seems like a pretty common problem. Put some target ammo in one of my mags and the waxy lube on it gummed it up a bit an we had a couple duds.
 
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