I have a repro sniper with repro mount/scope. Mount used to be locked in place just fine but after hundreds of rounds it started moving freely. Only thing I can think of is that rear wall of the groove became less than 90 degrees and now pin does not lock in place. I didnt pay any attention to the shape of rear groove until it started acting up, so I cant really be 100% sure whether or not in got deformed but mount and pin dont have any visible damage. Did anyone have similar experience or has any ideas how to rectify this issue? Thank you in advance.
In need of advice about rear groove on repro SVT sniper.
- Thread starter VuDu666
- Start date
I had an SVT that had factory rails, no groove. The repro mount was authentic in detail and I had an original scope. the pin for the groove was oval shaped. I took it to a gunsmith and he cut a deep round with short but straight sides. So, while I can't offer an educated suggestion on a fix, I hope the description of the groove and pin shape might help.
On my repro mount I found that the hole for the cross pin is actually not low enough,the pin does not seat deep enough in the groove in the receiver.
To fix this I filed the hole in the mount lower and made a new cross pin (oval in shape) so the pin bottoms out in the slot in the receiver,problem solved.
To fix this I filed the hole in the mount lower and made a new cross pin (oval in shape) so the pin bottoms out in the slot in the receiver,problem solved.
Yes,mine did the same,if you put the mount on and look through the hole you'll be able to see if the holes line up,meaning the bottom of the slot in the receiver must be even with the hole in the mount.
On mine the hole in the mount was higher,that's why I filed it out(lower) and made a larger key for it,has worked perfectly since.
BTW,easiest way to do this if you remove the spring in the back of the mount first.
On mine the hole in the mount was higher,that's why I filed it out(lower) and made a larger key for it,has worked perfectly since.
BTW,easiest way to do this if you remove the spring in the back of the mount first.
Oh, I did that today. I used a flashlight to see whats happening in there, couldnt really tell much. I couldnt see a whole lot but I could see that hole and and groove are lining up. It worked with live ammo before. I dont think its higher. I will try to do what I can, maybe with help from another person who’s got better phone. I can hold a flashlight and he can take pictures. Was mount on your SVT like that from the get go? I got mine from a long time CGN member with pristine buy/sell rep, thing was barely used and mount did not slide back at all. Since buying it, years ago, there was quite a bit of ammo put through it. Plus it was my WW2 reenactment rifle dragged around in the bush for a while but it’s it was never BFA’d, so overgassing due improper BFA and back wall bending is out of question. I think only damage from reenactment was lots of scratches and dents on wood. If I only knew what the prices would be right now ��
Whoever did it also has a triangle stamp which was put on the bottom of the groove. Definitely not done by some dude with a dremel but it still stopped working. I was told mount and scope is a Russian made repros and optics are Russian made. I suspect everything else was also made there. I know whos import it was. they cant really answer because for obvious reasons they dont have an answer because this this was was brought here many years go. Thats’s why Im asking the comunity. https://ibb.co/LZq5xxG
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- Location
- pallisers triangle
ive had the pleasure of takeing 4 factory cut snipers right out of the crates. that is the first one i have seen with a triangle stamp in the bottom. all mine had a C stamped in the bottom. however, that is exactly how the cut looked, rounded bottom edge
My solution for protecting the original notch from damage with the cheap replica mounts was to first file out an opening in the mount that conforms with the shape of the notch. Then I make a short pin from a cheap brass drift that fits. I make it the full size of the notch so that the mount doesn't slide back and forth against the spring. I don't think the "buffer" serves any useful purpose as recoil from SVT's is negligible and the same scopes were used on PU rifles solidly attached. With the repro mounts I've had the original notch on the receiever will get chewed up very quickly (as in 30 or so rounds).
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