Lol they are only more fragile when you apply force to it. They have give to them but not meant to be torqued the fvck out of... duh
IN-STOCK: All-New TYPE 81 SR
- Thread starter Tactical Imports
- Start date
Lol they are only more fragile when you apply force to it. They have give to them but not meant to be torqued the fvck out of... duh
Follow simple instructions and you wouldn't have faired the way you did.
Mine is fine with out a single issue using a brass screw.
To each their own when they don't quite understand how much force to use...
Did you use a drill to install it??
We're you jumping on the stock?
Brass is fragile but not glass. From your pics, you sunk that screw in way deeper then I
Considering you stated you drilled the hole then tried to tightened it (right there either tells me you were off with the hole/screw angle) or you forced it in when you shouldn't have. I had resistance on mine, but no where near as much to break the head off a screw.
I had this happen to mine earlier this evening while I was messing with it.
I was trying to figure out the trigger reset point and accidentally released the hammer while riding the bolt forward.
What you need to do to free it up is hold the bolt to the rear, then slide something in to push the hammer down far enough for the seat to catch it again.
It’s silly, but some things are just user error.
My suggestion is do not use brass screw, use the steel one.
I drilled a decent hole and tried to tighten it then the screw head is broken. Now there is no contact to the frame.
Also, I went to Homedepo, Canadiantires, couldn't find the correct nut for the trigger screw.
Who knows if your brass screw was brass or quality brass, hardware is mostly cheap garbage these days. I did recently remove some trim head stainless fasteners from some composite decking that I had to remove and those stainless screws were impressive in their ability to bend without snapping like a GRK which I find hold well in line and pull things together nicely, but are brittle and fail under lateral stress loads.
If it is a brass screw that you used you could peen what's left with a hammer and a suitable punch so that it flares out and secures your stock as you intended.
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That is the correct assumption. I use brass screws for lots of decorative stuff on my Steam Launch. Decoration and some corrosive resistance... thats all they are good for. They twist off so easily under what most would consider normal torque for a ferrous wood screw.
I just looked this up, the withdrawal force of a typical #10 wood screw threaded into dry Spruce is about 109lbs per inch of penetration. I havent measured the geometry yet but going off the pics ive seen here i bet many placing a screw diagonally into the comb of the buttstock via the cleaning rod hole in the rear trunnion (Bfiles method) would be getting most of an inch of penetration. 109lbs im sure is adequate.
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I don't think that's the issue. Anyways turns out the stock split when I was racking it. So all a moot point really. But seeing how easily the stock split I'm not even sure I want a replacement and would very heavily consider a refund if it were an option. It's a cool rifle and all but damn I see many a rifle needing replacement in the near future. TI is gonna have a pretty big problem on their hands until they come up with a real fix.
