Induction annealing machine

I have one and I've done it for some locals around the Edmonton area. $25/100 cases. If you're not around Edmonton, you pay shipping. Cases need to be de-capped and wet tumble cleaned. I have pilots for .223rem, .308win, .338LM, and 6.5x47.

As far as what I think of it, it is wonderful. (I messaged the OP and gave him the run down.)

Please reply here as well. We’re interested as well
 
I know a few guys who have them and they swear by them, but they are very expensive and over heat after about 50 rounds I'm told.

I personally use the salt bath annealing system and for the money it is excellent.

You run the lead melting pot at 500 degrees Celsius and that leaves a nice window of time if you are not exact without over annealing.

Just be sure you buy a metronome from a music store and set the time so you work to every whole note to pull the cases out.

http://ballisticrecreations.ca/salt_home/salt-bath-annealing-kit-rev/
 
Absolute Bovine Scatology. I've done 100 cases at a sitting, never had overheating issues. That claim is totally wrong. Even with the magnum case (.338LM), with the longer cycle time, my unit has never had any over heating "issues".

I don't mean to sound rude, but where do people get these claims? They are totally false.

Totes magoats.

I love my AMP - it is pretty much the only thing that I would trust to actually get the annealing correct. Considering the actually test the brass at a microscopic level to see if the structure has changed.
 
As I mentioned in a similar thread recently - also check out the Annie annealer from Insteon; less than $500 US, adjustable ferrite core so you can anneal big cases like the 50 BMG, and no case inserts required...
 
Does the Annie require tempilaq?

When I first started using it, I used both high temp Tempilaq (either 650 or 750F) to ensure the case necks got annealed at a high enough temp...also did a stripe of 250F down the case body to make sure I wasn’t overheating and softening the case.

Once set for a particular batch of brass, I record the annealing time (which you can set to 1/10 of a second) and which flux core I used (different gap widths affect flux) and find it very repeatable in future annealing sessions. Older Annie’s had higher power output but were more prone to failure. I had mine upgraded - lower power but less stress on electrical components - and annealing times range from around 3 seconds (.223 Rem) to around 10.5 for big thick Lake City .50 BMG brass. .308 Lapua is about 4.8 sec. you literally can watch the case neck change colour as the temp rises and still have time to put the case down in a metal tray without burning fingers. Annealing is incredibly uniform.
 
AMP is no doubt the best solution to date.

No dicking around with adjusting torches, worrying about changes in propane temperature, sacrificing a case every time and using Tempilaq to estimate the proper annealing temperature and setup, etc. - the AMP is plug and play and there is science behind it. It works great, anneals to the right temp for the right time EVERY time - a very consistent way to anneal.

The only downside is cost. But it's worth it. Annealing with the AMP is by far the easiest part of the reloading process for me. I can turn my brain off and it is plug and play - with accurate and consistent results every time.
 
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