Induction annealing machine

Absolute Bovine Scatology. I've done 100 cases at a sitting, never had overheating issues. That claim is totally wrong. Even with the magnum case (.338LM), with the longer cycle time, my unit has never had any over heating "issues".

I don't mean to sound rude, but where do people get these claims? They are totally false.

I used forum member Big Medicines to do a bunch of brass(400) before nationals last year. I had to let his AMP cool twice. This was Lapua thick neck 308 brass. While 50 sounds a bit unfounded to me, they can and do require cool downs doing larger batches.
 
I used forum member Big Medicines to do a bunch of brass(400) before nationals last year. I had to let his AMP cool twice. This was Lapua thick neck 308 brass. While 50 sounds a bit unfounded to me, they can and do require cool downs doing larger batches.

I think I had heard the earlier machines had this problem - I thought it was rectified.
 
Here's a quote from the review below link below...

There is an automatic thermal cutoff that prevents the machine from overheating. Depending on the setting, this can occur after 200 or so operations in a row. When this has occurred, simply leave the machine on and the fans will cool it down so you can resume annealing. This isn’t surprising considering the amount of heat being generated. Also, during operation the area behind the pilot will start to get warmer, this is normal.

Sorry I stated 50 rounds earlier from memory... it actually over heats or can over heat after more than that... but the people I know that have one told me they anneal in batches of 50 and let it cool down before doing another lot, so it does not over heat.

If you do more with no problem, good for you. FWIW I'm just repeating what guys who have them told me.

Maybe newer models are better. All the owner have told me they have been impressed with support from the manufacturer.... Maybe they upgraded newer models.

https://creedmoorinfozone.com/index.php/2017/06/06/annealing-made-perfect-annealing-machine-review/
 
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Although I have heard of it happening, and the company acknwoledges that it does occur, I have never had the machine had to cool off prior to completing my annealing. And I anneal in batches of 200 or more at times.

More commonly for me, is that I have to take breaks to let the case holder cool down. That sucker can get hot.
 
I would agree. Gets a tiny bit toasty on the finger tips.

All in I dont think there is a better way to anneal.
 
Overheating, effort, time, etc. are not the good or bad factors that I considered when getting the AMP.

It is the fact that AMP actually calibrates the machine using hardness tests to ensure that the various batches of brass are annealed correctly. They do a Vickers Hardness test on the actual batches of brass to ensure things are done properly.

You really can't beat that.
 
Overheating, effort, time, etc. are not the good or bad factors that I considered when getting the AMP.

It is the fact that AMP actually calibrates the machine using hardness tests to ensure that the various batches of brass are annealed correctly. They do a Vickers Hardness test on the actual batches of brass to ensure things are done properly.

You really can't beat that.
Agreed.

To date, the AMP is the best annealing solution available to consumers.
 
Overheating, effort, time, etc. are not the good or bad factors that I considered when getting the AMP.

It is the fact that AMP actually calibrates the machine using hardness tests to ensure that the various batches of brass are annealed correctly. They do a Vickers Hardness test on the actual batches of brass to ensure things are done properly.

You really can't beat that.

And if they don't have your particular brand/lot of brass in their tables, you send them a few cases and they do a calibration for free.

As far as overheating, I've annealed several hundred Lake City 308 cases with the setting in the 90-something range, and it overheats after the first 200. If you start again immediately after it cools down, it will go another 100 or so. Really not a big deal considering the accuracy and convenience.
 
And if they don't have your particular brand/lot of brass in their tables, you send them a few cases and they do a calibration for free.

As far as overheating, I've annealed several hundred Lake City 308 cases with the setting in the 90-something range, and it overheats after the first 200. If you start again immediately after it cools down, it will go another 100 or so. Really not a big deal considering the accuracy and convenience.

The new "a(z)tec" mode in the AMP's also allows you to do the calibration at home with your machine. It's a bit of a steep upgrade fee for the original AMP's, but comes included with the newest AMP model.

Edit - this stupid forum blocks the word a(z)tec (ignore brackets). What sort of PC BS is that?
 
It's because of a(z)tech armoury, an online retailer and importer from BC, they're censored on cgn.

The new "a(z)tec" mode in the AMP's also allows you to do the calibration at home with your machine. It's a bit of a steep upgrade fee for the original AMP's, but comes included with the newest AMP model.

Edit - this stupid forum blocks the word a(z)tec (ignore brackets). What sort of PC BS is that?
 
I know a few guys who have them and they swear by them, but they are very expensive and over heat after about 50 rounds I'm told.

I personally use the salt bath annealing system and for the money it is excellent.

You run the lead melting pot at 500 degrees Celsius and that leaves a nice window of time if you are not exact without over annealing.

Just be sure you buy a metronome from a music store and set the time so you work to every whole note to pull the cases out.

http://ballisticrecreations.ca/salt_home/salt-bath-annealing-kit-rev/



I just tried emailing him about what size of plate for doing 50-90 brass. Looks like he is out of business due to my email bouncing back saying email addy no longer valid. Pity was looking forward in trying this setup:(
 
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