Inertia Puller

caperbound

caperbound

Regular
Rating - 100%
208   0   0
Location
Nova Scotia
Just bought a Cabelas house brand Inertia Puller, but I can't seem to get it to work. Instructions suggest several quick snaps as opposed to sharp strikes. Doesn't matter what technique I use, the bullet doesn't move. Is it possible the crimp is too tight? Should I push the bullet in the in the case a bit more to distort the crimp then try again. It's a plastic puller and some snaps I keep looking to see if I actually broke the hammer. I didn't use the shell holders that came with it, I just use regular shell holders as they fit better. Thanks
 
It does take quite a few strikes for it to release the bullet, and yes it could be that the crimp is holding it. I have an RCBS model and you can give it a good strong strike so maybe you could also try striking yours a bit harder. I found on mine that I had to watch for the locking nut coming loose which would allow it bullet to flop a bit and not get a full hit.
Yes if you push the bullet into the case just a bit this should help break the hold on the bullet.
I have heard of guys using a shell holder rather than the case holders that come with the puller, but I have also heard that some people have had the primers go off using this method not sure what exactly happened but it did go off.
I have switched to using the press mounted puller for most of my pulling needs as I find it easier to keep the powder and reuse it this way.
Hope this helps, good luck.

Don
 
I use a RCBS and agree that if the first one does not pull easily, then seat the bullet a little deeper to break it free. The puller is struck against a 7.5 steel cannon ball used to break up clinkers in cement production. Put some tissue in the nose to avoid deforming bullets with exposed lead. How much longer mine will last due to deforming the nose is a guess. Light bullets (.22, .243, and .257) are often harder to remove than heavier 7mm and .308 bullets . . . that is probably why they are called inertia pullers.
 
What surface are you using to strike the puller against? It needs to be something fairly hard, like metal or concrete. Most woods tend to deform and absorb the impact energy.
 
I prefer my forster's bullet puller system. It attaches to your presss. You tighten down on the projectile and pull the handle. Out comes the bullet every time. If you are careful the projectile can be reused.
 
Hi Caperbound.
The first time I used an inertia bullet puller I had the shellholder upside down. (it was an older frankford arsenal but I think they are the same design. As a result, the case would move around and only after significant mashing and damage to the hammer rim and caseholder was I able to get the bullets out.

Here are a few things that have really worked for me.
1. Install the case holder the right side up.

2. Keep a few extra O-rings on hand because you can snap them when you are putting the caseholder over the belted rims.

3. I have found that the 'block of wood' as suggested just takes too long and has marginal results. I use a 25 lb cast steel weight that Ii use in my lead sled. Make sure your contact point on the lead is on a flat surface to avoid major splits on the hammer head.

4. On the first and second rasp of the hammer, just re tighten the shell holder screw top to make sure their is no play from the bullet case in the tool.

5. I have shoved some foam in the end of the hammer tool and tightly pack it before each pulling session so that I don't damage the bullet tip. This came in handy when I was unloading a few A-Max's and didn't deform one tip.

I have tried this method on heavily crimped and what appeared to be sealed and crimped factory ammunition with no issues. The solid steel has changed my life significantly for this process.

Best of luck, happy re-loading. If I can be of further help, please feel free to PM me.

Matt
 
Yeah I don't recommend using the concrete, wel at least not directly...
I used my RCBS directly on the concrete, and I unlike you, had no trouble pulling bullets with 2-3 whacks, but I also broke my puller.
 
It really depends on what you are trying to pull, which you haven't stated.
Steel cased 7.62x39 are really firmly stuck in. So is Canadian military surplus 5.56.
If you are using military, then the best suggestion is to break the seal by seating the bullet about 1-32 deeper, then using the bullet puller.
A lot of light raps is sufficient, rather than trying to drive nails.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom