Info needed for a 'full length guide rod' (1911 of course)

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basicbill

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I am a happy owner of a Norinco 1911 Government model from the CanadaAmmo deal. (excellent deal, btw)
I am learning the in's and out's of stripping it down and I notice that it's a bit finicky going back together. I've heard of the full length guide rods and it makes sense that it would simplify the disassembly / re-assembly process.

Is that the purpose of the full length unit? Are there other considerations about installing one?
Is there any issue ordering them from Brownells?

Thanks!
 
FLGRs are considered by a lot as useless, and a solution to a non existent problem. i personally think this group of people are not presented with the problem FLGRs solve.

what they don't do is make ANY difference in disassembly or help with recoil spring bunching (mostly because it simply doesn't happen).

that being said, what they are useful for is adding more weight to the front portion on the gun, so action shooters opt for them (helps with keeping the muzzle relatively on point during high rate of fire) and heavier the better (enter tungsten rods).

and they are no issues with ordering from brownell's long as the order total is less than $100 and the manufacturer has filed their export paperwork.
 
basicbill said:
...I notice that it's a bit finicky going back together.
Is that the purpose of the full length unit? Are there other considerations about installing one?
Is there any issue ordering them from Brownells?

Thanks!
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It's not finicky, it just needs to go together in order. It gets really easy after you've done it a bunch of times, and after the sharp edges wear a bit and stop catching on every damn thing!

FLGR is a matter of faith for most, it seems: There is no solid evidence indicating that it helps with anything other than slightly changing the balance of the pistol. Most people say that it makes disassembly harder.

There are more useful upgrades you can make that would actually make a difference to the functionality and feel of the pistol.

EDIT: But if you like them, or like the idea of them, go right ahead, you aren't going to hurt anything.
 
basicbill said:
I am a happy owner of a Norinco 1911 Government model from the CanadaAmmo deal. (excellent deal, btw)
I am learning the in's and out's of stripping it down and I notice that it's a bit finicky going back together. I've heard of the full length guide rods and it makes sense that it would simplify the disassembly / re-assembly process.

Is that the purpose of the full length unit? Are there other considerations about installing one?
Is there any issue ordering them from Brownells?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Doesn't your Norc already have a full length guide rod? Both of the ones I have had from new did.


Mark
 
GQBalla said:
The Norc 1911 from the recent canada ammosale does not have a full length guide rod. Well the two I got didnt
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Confirmed: The CanAm special is pretty darn close to original GI spec, right down to the arched MSH. The "sport" model I bought a couple of years ago came with a FLGR. It wasn't there for long.:)
 
I bought a 2 piece Wilson Combat FLGR and Shok Buffers for my Colt Gold Cup Trophy. Got it from Brownell's, no problems shipping to Canada. I used the same system in my Colt GCNM for years with no problems. Whether they work or not it's a 50/50 amongst 1911 owners.
 
jackrabbit000 said:
I bought a 2 piece Wilson Combat FLGR and Shok Buffers for my Colt Gold Cup Trophy. Got it from Brownell's, no problems shipping to Canada. I used the same system in my Colt GCNM for years with no problems. Whether they work or not it's a 50/50 amongst 1911 owners.
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I did the exact opposite (Brownell's also) and got a GI guide rod and regular plug to swap for the full lenght guide rod in my Spingfield. I must admit that it doesn't feel as smooth when I manually cycle the gun but taking it apart is so much easier and faster.
 
Generally folks who don't like FLGR's are folks who have used 1911's for duty usage -- it makes certain clearance drills more awkward and provides another area for the gun to get bound up.
 
I find the whole debate for and against the guide rod in a 1911 a little amusing. Pretty much every service pistol in the world uses a full length guide rod right now and many like the Glock have a full length frame extension that even if it didn't have a FLGR would prevent it from being operated like a 1911 without one. It's a non issue to me, if you want one, run one, if not, then don't. Many would argue that the 1911 is antiquated and not reliable enough for modern use and recommend using it with out a guide rod if they do use one, then go one to recommend a modern Sevice pistol with....a FLGR...lol
 
Difference being most of those guns can be easily disassembled or cleared. As well the differences in the way the 1911 FLGR acts with the reverse plunger etc. is a lot different than the way a Sig, Glock, or M&P guide rod works, as most of those guns have captive recoil springs along that guide rod.
 
KevinB said:
Difference being most of those guns can be easily disassembled or cleared. As well the differences in the way the 1911 FLGR acts with the reverse plunger etc. is a lot different than the way a Sig, Glock, or M&P guide rod works, as most of those guns have captive recoil springs along that guide rod.
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Exactly...FLGR in a 1911 is different than FLGR in a Glock, just like a piston is different in an AR than a piston in an AK.
 
Meh, it's not like it adds any parts and take down is basically the same. It's easier if you have a bushing wrench but it still disassembles the same way. On a normal 1911 it's not a reverse plug it's just a normal spring plug with a hole through the middle for the rod. Push plug in, rotate bushing, release plug under control, remove bushing, remove slide from frame, remove guide rod, remove barrel. Done. The only difference is that Glocks and Sigs have a whole in the slide for the rod and the 1911 has a plug, but it has one anyways.
 
Two different types of FLGR too ;) Two piece and One piece.
If you look at a Glock, Sig, M&P etc the "guide rod" is more of a spring guide -- it does not really contact the slide the front is a little more pronounced to decrease debris entering the system. All of the FLGR's I have seen tend to rub on the plug bushing.

I don't really care - I removed them from any 1911 I've had, as I've seen some that bound up in fine sand and that was enough.

I do use 1911 shock buff's though the cushion to the frame I think is worth it in non duty guns (my CCW 1911, or I guess my old CCW which was a 1911 had one).
 
Yeah, never use a two piece, just asking for trouble there. I've seen way too many back out and come apart or get torqued so tight to avoid this that it peens over the lip of the one piece causing a lip that the spring will catch on.
 
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