Info on annealing.

Pretty much my system as well, although the count depends on the size of the casing. I find it helps to do it in a darker room with a touch of light coming through a window (or a lamp 4-5 feet away, depends on your eyes). You can see the color change easier. I drop mine into a shallow pan of water immediately with an old rag or t-shirt in it for ease of handling, and then a little ride in the oven at 210F to dry them off and worry about them later. It's not perfect but it works well if you're consistent about it.
Yep hence the 6-8 second.
 
First off. Does crimping eliminate the need to Anneal?

I guess I'm now up to the point of needing to anneal cases for longevity of the accuracy?!

I witnessed this a few years ago now when my "Woodleigh" load, all of a sudden went to sccit..

Turns out, that FC brass had proberly been reloading in the 6-7 times bracket.
An no doubt the neck tension was gone.

Seating the projectile , I felt difference in 'effort' to seat.

Not wanting to go thru brass as often, means I need to anneal the cases.
Il be doing Her .308 brass and my .7-08 brass.

Is the little Gas torch the 'easiest' way, stand up in a tray. Torch them an tip them to quench.

Will follow some YouTube info , but first ask legends Here

Cheers
Annealing isn't the accuracy magic wand people claim it to be. It will help with consistent neck tension and brass longevity though. Also, quenching isn't going to make a difference, unless you want to touch them right away.

Quenching isn't required - it does nothing for the hardness/softness of brass - only ferrous metals with carbon content. What it can do is prevent the heat from creeping down the shoulder/body into places you don't want to anneal.

The method you mention here can be improved by standing the torch up (lit), and setting the brass in a socket (loose fit). spin it slowly in a drill to get a good even heat around the brass 360 degrees. Then tip it out and do another one.

Good luck.
 
Pretty sure you missed the entire point here. NOBODY ever mentioned case trimming. The point is, does crimping normalize neck tension and thus eliminate the need to anneal .... for consistent neck tension.



Well except for the need to pay for the fricken thing. Also AMP is very slow and labour intensive in comparison to a flame annealing machine. I'd buy that AMP is the best way to anneal but not the easiest nor quickest.
Slow and labour intensive? It could not be easier to fill a hopper and walk away.
 
Whelan,
I started annealing my 300wsm brass when I noticed I was getting split necks on the first loading.
It was new Winchester brass and was a bit shocked when I had 3 split necks in the first 50 rounds
I found a deep socket that fit the brass and chucked that in my cordless drill.
Spin them in the flame of my propane torch.
I leave the torch running, pop the brass in the socket and start it spinning.
Move it into the flame and count to 5 or 6 and tip it into a big bowl of water.
With the lights off you can see when the flame changes colour, as soon as that change occurs I tip them.
I do them every 2nd reload and haven't had a split neck since.
Not super scientific but has been working for me.

Sam
 
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