Infratek CZ/VZ Railed Upper Handguard. Success!

Stevo

Stevo

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NW Alberta
I got this in the mail a couple days ago and was surprised to see the Dlask logo on it. It had a few burrs on an inside edge but otherwise was well finished.

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Opposite side, showing locking lever in "open" position.

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Lever in "half open" position.

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Lever in "closed" position.

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Aimpoint Comp M2 in ARMS #17 M68CCO mount, no spacers installed. As you can see the rear 4 slots in the rail are useless if you intend to remove the rail with an optic installed. The lever will hit the ARMS mount pictured and not open if it is placed any farther rearward.

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The rear of the rail has two set screws on the bottom. These must be adjusted for height to make sure the locking lug will engage in the piston opening. If they're not out far enough the lever will move freely allowing up and down motion, if they're out too far, the rail will sit too high for the lug to enter the piston opening. Locktite must be applied.

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Locking lug in "out" or "locked" position. I hope the lug is steel.

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Installed. The lower handguard is off because the rail fits so tight that I have to use a rubber mallet to seat it and the mallet and a punch to take it off. Without removing the lower handguard you would either have to pull on your optic or pry it off with a screwdriver.

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I've only put about 25 rounds through the gun with it mounted and it held zero for that short session. The mount will require tinkering to make sure the set screws are at the right depth and you must ensure the rail is fully seated or it will settle onto the set screws (making the locking lever useless) as you fire. IMO, this mount would be much better if the hole for the stock handguard retaining pin was used for a bolt to secure the rear of the mount. This mount is a PITA to get setup and I am not convinced that it will remain solid. I have no idea if it will return to zero when removed, though using a hammer to seat and remove it seems to make that less likely.

I have no intention of removing this rail if I can get it to hold zero. I'm sure I can get enough WD40 into the gas block with the lower handguard off to keep the corrosive salts at bay.

The iron sights are visible through the center channel of the rail, but the sight picture is very narrow and restricted. This setup give a "chin-weld" ont the folder and I'd prefer a lower 30mm ring for the M2 or a smaller optic like an Aimpoint Micro. It's not too high, just higher than I'd like.

Either the rail has a slight twist/imperfection or my gas block isn't on straight. The rail needs to have sideways pressure put on it to fit around the rear sight base.

Lastly, I'm generally satisfied with this rail right now but only time will tell if it will actually work. As always, your mileage may vary.

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Interesting write up Stevo. My rails are currently sitting waiting for a Krink VZ to arrive, so I haven't even fired with them yet.
I'm really curious as to how they'll hold up with retaining zero over the long term.

Anyone else have these mounted and done some firing?
 
Hmm I like the idea of this on a Krink...

Think I might have to put an order in now, and decide on an optic...(have no idea what optic to put on) Anyone have an opinion on what would be the best ?

I like the original OKO sights but haven't seen one for sale in awhile..

Sorry to hijack your thread, good writeup.
 
Another trip to the range today. The set screws were set and the rail was beat into place with a rubber hammer. The latch would barely close with hand pressure.

And...........it was loose in less than ten shots. The latch lever would move freely. With the latch doing nothing, it still held zero for the 100 odd rounds I put through it.

So, back to the workbench. I adjusted the set screws out some more. I beat the mount on with a hammer and a brass punch. I used a small hammer to beat the latch closed. I can not make it any tighter. God knows if it will work this time. If it doesn't I'll just wrap a pipe clamp around the whole front of the gun to keep it in place.

I can not believe that any testing or pre-production work was done on this mount, the latch system is that bad. All of this could have been avoided by using the handguard pin hole in the sight block for a cross-bolt at the rear of the mount.
 
So far the best mount that doesn't require drilling and tapping is probably the barrel one the guy posted that allowed co-witness with a doctor optic. I PM'd him an idea I had to make the mount ROCK solid in case he intended to make them in quantity but he didn't get back to me....his loss. The only problem with this mount design is heat transfer, which could, in theory cause the mount to lose zero if you pound a lot of rounds through it.
 
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Clobbersauras said:
So far the best mount that doesn't require drilling and tapping is probably the barrel one the guy posted that allowed co-witness with a doctor optic. I PM'd him an idea I had to make the mount ROCK solid in case he intended to make them in quantity but he didn't get back to me....his loss.
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Yeah, that's too bad.

I just want a solid mount for a red dot that:

a) isn't made of plastic
b) isn't screwed to the wobbly handguard
c) isn't a side rail with lots of sharp edges requiring holes in the rifle
d) allows me to co-witness or at least retain iron sights
e) isn't a total piece of crap.

Is that so hard? Apparently it is.


Can anyone here correctly locate and drill holes in the side of the mount to utilize the sight block hole for a bolt for me?
 
Stevo said:
Yeah, that's too bad.

I just want a solid mount for a red dot that:

a) isn't made of plastic
b) isn't screwed to the wobbly handguard
c) isn't a side rail with lots of sharp edges requiring holes in the rifle
d) allows me to co-witness or at least retain iron sights
e) isn't a total piece of crap.

Is that so hard? Apparently it is.


Can anyone here correctly locate and drill holes in the side of the mount to utilize the sight block hole for a bolt for me?
Click to expand...

I think Suprathepeg is making a co-witness sight for the doctor optic, but he's kept his cards close to his chest on this one:cool:.
 
interesting

Stevo said:
Another trip to the range today. The set screws were set and the rail was beat into place with a rubber hammer. The latch would barely close with hand pressure.

And...........it was loose in less than ten shots. The latch lever would move freely. With the latch doing nothing, it still held zero for the 100 odd rounds I put through it.

So, back to the workbench. I adjusted the set screws out some more. I beat the mount on with a hammer and a brass punch. I used a small hammer to beat the latch closed. I can not make it any tighter. God knows if it will work this time. If it doesn't I'll just wrap a pipe clamp around the whole front of the gun to keep it in place.

I can not believe that any testing or pre-production work was done on this mount, the latch system is that bad. All of this could have been avoided by using the handguard pin hole in the sight block for a cross-bolt at the rear of the mount.
Click to expand...

Mine has had none of the problems yours has,in fact the pressure screws on the bottom of the top hanguard stay in place, the lever never loosen, and always return to zero within 1 MOA. It is important that each set screw applies the same even pressure and sticks out the exact same amount out of the handguard. I set mine tight but I can lever it with my finger if I squeeze down on the handguard at the same time.
If defective - Im sure Infratek will replace it .
I love mine- buyin another for the krink when it comes in.:D
 
chopper 1 said:
Mine has had none of the problems yours has,in fact the pressure screws on the bottom of the top hanguard stay in place, the lever never loosen, and always return to zero within 1 MOA. It is important that each set screw applies the same even pressure and sticks out the exact same amount out of the handguard. I set mine tight but I can lever it with my finger if I squeeze down on the handguard at the same time.
If defective - Im sure Infratek will replace it .
I love mine- buyin another for the krink when it comes in.:D
Click to expand...

My screws stay in place, they're loctited. Slack keeps showing up in the system though. Maybe with the paint crushed off the receiver under the set screws now it might hold.

Do you have to use a hammer to get it seated and removed?
 
Nope

Stevo said:
My screws stay in place, they're loctited. Slack keeps showing up in the system though. Maybe with the paint crushed off the receiver under the set screws now it might hold.

Do you have to use a hammer to get it seated and removed?
Click to expand...

Just squeeze down as tight as my hand could then flip the lever - the lever is tight, gotta grit teeth and squeeze hard - with finger (HURTS AFTER) LOL
 
I realize that John's opinion and mine are not impartial but the main reason we went with a side mounting rail is that you can remove the optic with repeatable zero and in many cases leave the optic on for cleaning. In Canada 80% of the ammo that goes through these guns is corrosive so you need to clean after shooting and cleaning the gas system is a must. This means RTZ with a hand guard mount is always an issue, honestly the FAB and CAA pieces are a lot cheaper and offer the same results as a more expensive aluminum unit.

The other issue to remember is that you will have barrel whip especially between the gas block and receiver so this will cause movement in a mount that uses those two points of contact. I would not advise setting the mount to using excessive force, red locktite on the set screws would be a better option all round. I'm sure this mount can be made to work with locktite on the set screws and proper installation.

Clobbersauras said:
I think Suprathepeg is making a co-witness sight for the doctor optic, but he's kept his cards close to his chest on this one:cool:.
Click to expand...

Yes we have one in the works, its one of about 15 products that are in some stage of development and probably won't be hitting the market for at least 6-9 months.

The multimount rail is a great platform for mounting any kind of optic you like and its a lot more ergonomic then you might think. Installation is much easier then one might think although we must recomend that you use the services of the smith to properly install it on your rifle.

Sean
 
suprathepeg said:
I realize that John's opinion and mine are not impartial but the main reason we went with a side mounting rail is that you can remove the optic with repeatable zero and in many cases leave the optic on for cleaning. In Canada 80% of the ammo that goes through these guns is corrosive so you need to clean after shooting and cleaning the gas system is a must. This means RTZ with a hand guard mount is always an issue, honestly the FAB and CAA pieces are a lot cheaper and offer the same results as a more expensive aluminum unit.

The other issue to remember is that you will have barrel whip especially between the gas block and receiver so this will cause movement in a mount that uses those two points of contact. I would not advise setting the mount to using excessive force, red locktite on the set screws would be a better option all round. I'm sure this mount can be made to work with locktite on the set screws and proper installation.



Yes we have one in the works, its one of about 15 products that are in some stage of development and probably won't be hitting the market for at least 6-9 months.

The multimount rail is a great platform for mounting any kind of optic you like and its a lot more ergonomic then you might think. Installation is much easier then one might think although we must recomend that you use the services of the smith to properly install it on your rifle.

Sean
Click to expand...


so, uhh any update on the side mount eta?
i just sold my scout mount in anticipation:)
sorry for the hijack.
 
Sorry to hear that Stevo, like I said we can look at modifying if you like. Hutchster, we finally got the shell deflectors from the company that will not be seeing future orders and parts are at the coaters, final inspection at the end of this week and then they should be ready to ship sometime next week.

Sean
 
Sean, I'll shoot you a pm in the morning.

The side mounts are just too bulky for my taste. A little L-shaped piece with Pic rail on top that d&t'd into the side of the rear sight block and sat just over the rear sight leaf would be awesome for a small RDS like a FastFire or Micro.
 
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