Ingots have dimples

jongun

jongun

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I originally post this in the sticky but realized it probably wouldn't be noticed haha so here's my question

Finally got around to casting some ingots today for the first time from a mix of mostly plumbing lead and a little bit of wheel weights. I noticed in the original post the ingots have some little craters/dimples just like mine do. Just wondering if fluxing in the casting pot will clear this up?Since of course we don't want these in our finished cast bullets.
 
Assuming the plumbing lead is pure lead, you should add some tin and Antimony as you won't have enough from the wheel weights. But there is nothing wrong with dimples in your ingots. Post some pictures if you can.
 
Threw in a bit of solder for the tin content but not much since these ingots are going to be used to cast slugs so actually probably could have got away with using the pure stuff(just plumbing lead). My concern with the dimples is if the ingots are dimpled won't the bullets be as well?
Pics

 
Just from gasses from the hot lead hitting the cold mold. My guess is you used a Teflon coated muffin tin. I do too and mine look the same.

The first few bullets cast may look similar until the mold heats up. Tin works like a wetting agent, allows the melt to flow better and fill out the mold completely. It also increases the hardness.
 
Yep Teflon coated muffin tin and the gf gave me sh!t for using a good quality one that I went out and bought just for this purpose. Could only imagine if I would have used one of her pans.
 
I would agree with the last statement

I have 2 muffin tins, and the one with teflon makes ingots with dimples. The one without teflon does not.

As a side note you should flux when you are making up the ingots that way you can roll right into casting.

keep rolling them out, good work.
 
Thanks for the encouraging words there redbirddog. Only casted 11 ingots which came out to pretty well exactly 20lbs which should give me nicely over 300 1oz slugs. Just figured I'd flux in the bullet casting pot since that is what blacksmithden does but do get where you're coming from bud. Can't wait to melt me some more lead and for those damn molds to come in so I can start casting like a madman.
 
Just curious when others are adding their tin to the lead in which form and ratio. I would think it would be best to make pure lead ingots then add a certain ratio of tin to lead. Adding the tin to the wheel weights before the steel clips are removed doesn't seem like a very accurate way of going about it.
 
It was very likely the Teflon gassing off casing your dimples as already stated.

I melt about 40-50lbs At a time, flux it 2 times then add any tin (what ever form I can get it in, typically solder wire) Then flux once more.

I have or try to have 2% tin so 1lb to 49lbs of lead.
 
Think my pot maxes out around 50lbs so I think I may try a batch tomorrow of 40lbs of pure WW and add a 1/2lb solder. Seems to me guys are adding tin simply to help fill out the molds more than anything which can be achieved by simply properly heating the molds prior to filling. Either way I'm going too add the solder for added peace of mind.
 
Wheel weights already have tin in them, they cast just fine without the need for any extra. Wheel weights will give you anywhere from 9-12 brinell. Pure lead is 5BHN. Wheel weight is good for all pistol loads as is.

Here is a good read ht tp://www.lasc.us/CastBulletAlloy.htm
 
Canadian_Zuk said:
Wheel weights already have tin in them, they cast just fine without the need for any extra. Wheel weights will give you anywhere from 9-12 brinell. Pure lead is 5BHN. Wheel weight is good for all pistol loads as is.

Here is a good read ht tp://www.lasc.us/CastBulletAlloy.htm
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X2. I use straight wheel weights for all my handgun bullet casting. With Lee Liquid Alox lube I get minimal to zero leading and good accuracy. At target velocities (750-1000fps) softer casting alloys work really well.
 
antiqueguy said:
I use straight wheel weights for rifle both air cooled and water dropped depending on what load im using and what gun it is
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Straight WW ingots will be used for casting 30cals(311 +308)for my Mosin,SKS and Schmidt-Rubin rifles. So you think I'll be fine with this plus checks using moderate loads? I know the SKS's gas port will probably get leaded up pretty good but I'm not opposed to cleaning every so often.
 
WW ingots cast today


Should keep me in bullets for a while only thing gotta wait for molds to come in which could be a while if the supplier has to special order them. At least I'll be able to cast some slugs this week from the ingots I made yesterday. Can't wait!
 
jongun said:
Straight WW ingots will be used for casting 30cals(311 +308)for my Mosin,SKS and Schmidt-Rubin rifles. So you think I'll be fine with this plus checks using moderate loads? I know the SKS's gas port will probably get leaded up pretty good but I'm not opposed to cleaning every so often.
Click to expand...

Leading is more a result of using under sized bullets vs too soft an alloy. You will be fine with wheel weights and gas checks.
 
Here's what I'm using and of course the proper safety accessories=overalls,long sleeves,leather steel toe boots,faceshield and welders gloves. Also doing the melt outside in open area and keeping away from the fumes as much as possible(every so often getting away from the general area).

 
WW has about 3.5% antimony, only about 0.5% tin. Flows well if quite hot for large heavy bullets, not so good for small, long bullets. When cheaply available, I add about 1% tin before I take out ww clips and dirt. Theory is that tin helps antimony to stay in solution with lead(besides giving better mold fillout).
 
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