Inherited firearms, Rust Removal

[Plasticman]

Last year, me and my pops were given all of my grandfathers firearms. He was moving from his farm in Haywood to a seniors apartment in Elm Creek.
A total of 5. A couple of 12Ga shotguns, one is a Mossberg Lakefield with an adjustable choke system. A Remington break action "made in Brazil". An Enfield sporter, and a FN/Browning Trombone .22 pump that must be at least 80 years old. and a cheap muzzle-loader.

All very nice quality. well, the Trombone is totally beat to hell, but still works. That will have to go to a gunsmith and get the action cleaned eventually.

My main concern is, as the title states, RUST! Im sorry i don't have pictures atm. they would be hard to look at anyways. such a shame.
They were all stored in a very humid farm house. where grandma ALWAYS has some type of pot cooking something on the stove. (no complaints) but it makes the place humid. some in soft cases some in hard, all in a locker. in the damp basement. no oil My Dad is now doing the same thing at his place and has not even oiled them. ( I need to rescue them!)


I'm going to start with the two shotguns as the first project, they should be easier. They both have a few nickel sized blotches of rust on the barrels, even some light pitting, and tiny rust spots all over. also some lighter rust on the receivers. This is all beyond light surface rust that you can wipe off. which is all i could find videos and info on. The bores are slightly rusted in spots as well, but actually not as bad as the outside. similar situation with the muzzle loader, but its bore is rusted badly.

As for the trombone, its touchy because its a bit rusty, but it also has a nice looking patina covering it as well. and if i ever learned anything from pawn stars, its don't mess with hundred year old patina.


Anyways, how do i go about this? All i have to work with right now is an old Hoppe's cleaning kit. I think i'l start with the #9 to get the light stuff off then im thinking very light steel wool with oil. But i'm just guessing.
I suppose i will have to cold blue all the spots afterwards too.


Anyone with experience like to give me some tips on getting rid of the cancer from these old beauties??
Thanks a lot.

 

[guntech]

Hoppes Number 9 and 0000 steel wool... the 0000 will not harm the bluing and the Hoppes only affects rust. Then use G96 Gun Treatment to prevent more rusting. Don't cold blue. Leave what finish is there.

 

[teenahlake]

Look up electrolytic rust removal
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/

 

[kennymo]

I've used the 0000 steel wool with some success before. X 2 on the G96 gun oil. Follow the directions on the bottle for rust prevention.

 

[sunray]

0000 steel wool and light oil. A light touch with a fine brass wire wheel in a bench grinder is faster and won't bother the finish either. Operative words are 'light touch'. Eye protection is mandatory.
For either method to work, the rust can only be light surface rust. Anything that is pitted or severely rusted these will help, but will not make the pitting go away.

 

[BCRider]

Look up electrolytic rust removal
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/

Except that blueing is a form of rust so using this technique will remove ALL blueing at the same time as it removes the rust.

I've seen this used on what appeared to be terminally damaged guns. But it leaves the metal pitted and scarred by the rust. It also leaves the metal "in the white" so there goes any remaining blueing and anything that resembles a "patina" with it.

I had good results on a couple of friend's guns with the steel wool and light oil. And it's a well documented way to start. Only once you remove the first of it and can see any underlying pitting then you can decide on where to go from there.