Initial results for my first loading experience.

OverUnder725

OverUnder725

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I made some loads for my .30-06 and my .243. Here are the results on 5" targets. Any suggestions on how I should proceed with the loads?

The .243 at 47 gr, the cases were getting stiff to extract and at 46 gr the grouping was extremely poor.

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I hope the pictures aren't upside down like the last time I tried!
 
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try using standard targets. you may find it easier to find a more static point to aim at.
 
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I have loaded for a few guns and have only gotten that poor of a result with one load. My first question is "How well do these guns shoot with factory ammo?" IF you can shoot 2" groups with any old ammo and your getting 4" groups with your reloads then you have to make some drastic changes. Try a different bullet or powder maybe. I would also try seating the bullets .005 of the lands if possible.

G
 
Use a proper sight-in target. You can find them all over the internet for free. That would give you a consistent and clean point of aim/reference. Are you shooting off a rest? Are you stabilizing the butt end of the stock with a beanbag or your balled up fist etc in order to keep the rifle as stable as possible. What kind/make is your rifle?
 
You are pushing the upper limits with those loads. Normal practice is to start with loads near minimum and work up in .5 gr increments until pressure signs are encountered, or better still, when good accuracy is achieved. N160 should work well with both bullet weights in both calibers.

As others have suggested, establish an accuracy baseline with both rifles with factory ammo for starters. Generally, well prepared handloads will be more accurate than factory ammo. Accurate shooting always is based on the 3 legged stool; shooter, rifle and ammo. Open sights can be very accurate, but a better target is required for accurate grouping. At 100 yds I suggest a rectangular piece of black paper/bristolboard approx. 4" high x 8" wide centered on a 24"x 24" piece of buff or white paper for contrast (reverse side of wallpaper is great). Use a 6 o'clock hold on the black square. This is very similar to the old 100yd zeroing targets that we used for the FN rifle. I have used a similar target for all of my open sighted MILSURPs for years and find that it works well.
 
purple said:
You are pushing the upper limits with those loads. Normal practice is to start with loads near minimum and work up in .5 gr increments until pressure signs are encountered, or better still, when good accuracy is achieved. N160 should work well with both bullet weights in both calibers.

I started at 44gr in the .30-06 and worked up to 57.5gr and with 43gr in the .243 and worked up to 47gr. I like your target suggestion. I find the targets on line or in stores are geared for sighting scopes, and can be difficult to see with open sights accurately. Hence the white paper with black circle.
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I see you're using a Chrony, how does your data compare with source material?

Iron sights at 100 yards trying to determine how accurate your reloads are? I know my eyes aren't good enough for that. I'd pull it back to 75, or even 50 yards. If I can get things real tight up closer, then I know it's me (eyes, rest, flinching etc.) out at 100 and not the gun/bullets - but that is how I do things.

ETA: I'm reloading some 100 grain in my .243 for deer hunting this November and have noticed (so far) it just doesn't shoot as tight as lighter bullets.

Plus all the other advice above.
 
Both the BLR and Savage 99 are lever guns and, while excellent hunting rifles, are not renowned for precision shooting. Scopes are always better to resolve the point of aim and assist accuracy, but if a person is comfortable with open sights they can be surprisingly accurate. Scopes have only gained widespread use in the last 50-60 years.

I do a lot of shooting with various MILSURPs and am always pleased, and sometimes amazed, with the accuracy of their open sights. I normally expect 2 inch 100 yd groups with handloads from the bench, assuming that the bore is in good shape, bedding is OK and sights are tight. Quite often it is better, sometimes less.
 
For open sights, I think your groups look ok. Any differences in loads will be lost in the noise of sighting errors.

If you ammo goes bang and extracts smoothly, that is about the most you can hope for.

When I am developing a load, I install a 12X or better scope on the rifle. For hunting, CQB, or whatever, different sights are used.
 
+2 - good shooting with open sighted lever guns.
I very much doubt those groups are indicative of either the mechanical accuracy of the rifles or the ammunition.
Does show MPI though...;)
 
very good advise from Purple (6 oclock hold) and Fall Guy (50 yrds) for "open sight" shooting.

As for the target advise there is nothing wrong with using what you used for open sights. I never use a factory printed target anymore, however, my own preference is to use a smaller spot. use the smalest spot you can see at the distace you are shooting.
If you are just after hunting accuracy, with open sights the deciding factor in your results will be your eyesight and your own abillity to shoot. It apears to me that you are there with the "06" but the 243 needs a little more work. The group you shot with the "06" proves that you, yourself are capable of shooting better than the 243 is doing now. That being said, the trigger pull difference between the two guns could easily cause that much "group" difference.
If you want to level the field for presision shooting between your own abillity and the guns you use, you will need a scope on either rifles.

Above all don't discourage yourself trying to get the 1" or less groups at 100yrds talked about on these forums with open sights from a hunting rifle. You may be able, your guns may be able, and capable but the norm is "not" without a scope.
 
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