inletting a stock - determining where to remove material

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prosper

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I've got a walnut stock that I'm trying to fit to a mauser barreled action. The stock was maybe 80% inletted. I've got it mostly fitted right now, though there are still a few contact points I need to address. I've been using a very sooty MAAP flame to smoke the action, and this works well for vertical and nearly vertical surfaces where the friction can rub off some soot; but it's not so great at identifying which horizontal surfaces need work. Any tips?
 
Lipstick. I remember years ago when my father was building muzzleloaders and he used lipstick when inletting all the brass bits and the locks.
 
I second the lipstick, I use a bright colour, so it shows up easily.Just rub it on the action, put it in the stock, and when you pull it back out, you can instantly see where you need to remove material.
Scott
 
I haven't tried lipstick, seems like I would make a mess with it though. Personally I have used dry erase markers to fit metal parts together, you have to apply a lot more marker than if you were just writing. The best part is that it just wipes off with a rag when you are done.
 
A bunch of soot out of the old wood stove, mixed with grease, works well; or you can buy commercial inletting black. This stuff is messy and it is especially so when used by someone like myself. I usually apply the black carefully, set the barreled action into the stock, then remove it to see where I have to remove wood. After removing the wood I pick up the barreld action again and always grab it by the part which is covered with blacking. I then set it into the stock again and scratch my head while looking for a shop rag. Invariably, the phone rings and I pick it up with the blackened hand. I switch ears and scratch the first one. I lean up against the bench and sit on the brush I used to apply the blacking. By the time it's done with, I look like one of those old photos of miners in Kentucky. Regards, Bill.
 
Leeper said:
A bunch of soot out of the old wood stove, mixed with grease, works well; or you can buy commercial inletting black. This stuff is messy and it is especially so when used by someone like myself. I usually apply the black carefully, set the barreled action into the stock, then remove it to see where I have to remove wood. After removing the wood I pick up the barreld action again and always grab it by the part which is covered with blacking. I then set it into the stock again and scratch my head while looking for a shop rag. Invariably, the phone rings and I pick it up with the blackened hand. I switch ears and scratch the first one. I lean up against the bench and sit on the brush I used to apply the blacking. By the time it's done with, I look like one of those old photos of miners in Kentucky. Regards, Bill.
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I know what you mean. The soot from the MAAP torch is already plenty messy
 
Leeper said:
A bunch of soot out of the old wood stove, mixed with grease, works well; or you can buy commercial inletting black. This stuff is messy and it is especially so when used by someone like myself. I usually apply the black carefully, set the barreled action into the stock, then remove it to see where I have to remove wood. After removing the wood I pick up the barreld action again and always grab it by the part which is covered with blacking. I then set it into the stock again and scratch my head while looking for a shop rag. Invariably, the phone rings and I pick it up with the blackened hand. I switch ears and scratch the first one. I lean up against the bench and sit on the brush I used to apply the blacking. By the time it's done with, I look like one of those old photos of miners in Kentucky. Regards, Bill.
Click to expand...

Bill You just have to try the pink lipstick:p
 
I use a pine tar candle in a spoon that I light with a torch for lampblack. Works well. Cut-out all the black with whatever tool works and sink-it in. Milling machines make life so easy if you have access as you can sink the water table first.
 
I use a .22 case with gasoline and a paper match. It goves off a small but sooty flame and I blow it out when I'm done. Relight it with a Bic for my next smoking. When the case runs out of gas, I fill it up with a syringe and go again. Not enough smoke to get the alarm excited and the materials are cheap and easy to get.
 
Red oxide automotive type primer ... let a small puddle of it "almost" dry ... then use it on a dry brush ... it goes on kind of powdery ... transfers from metal to wood nicely and is easy to clean up with a bit of lacquer thinner.
 
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