Inline muzzleloader hunting

70m4h4wk

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I'm moving to Saskatoon at the end of June. Just discovered that in the areas I'm hoping to hunt, rifle season is only 2 weeks, but muzzleloader is 6 weeks, and archery is a month before that. I already have a bow, and now I'd like to get a muzzleloader as well.

I've done some research and I think I have a good idea of what I'm looking for in a used muzzleloader. But what's the cheapest way to starting shooting them? I don't have a huge budget, so I'd like to confirm that using a muzzleloader is something I enjoy before I start investing in the fancy stuff.

Also, do you have any tips for muzzleloader hunting? I'm an acceptable rifle hunter, so I just need muzzleloader specific tips.

I'll also take tips on hunting in SK. I've never hunted anywhere flat before.
 
I started off with a TC Impact & now have a CVA Optima, neither are expensive. Since you're going to be on the prairies, maybe look at the long range model that CVA LR offers?

I also use BlackHorn 209 powder, but it's difficult to find & expensive nowadays... Oh, and I load mine with a middle of the road powder load, no issue with complete pass throughs on deer with shot opportunities inside 100m.

Cheers
Jay
 
70M4h4wk: Have hunted extensively around the Saskatoon area with muzzleloader. Likely the most versatile choice in an inline muzzleloader, is .50 caliber. As already mentioned, both TC and CVA offer good products. Though if you get a good price on any other reputable brand, all will deliver the goods.

A popular hunting load features a saboted, .44-caliber jacketed pistol bullet, over a moderate powder charge. As Jay suggests, a middle of the road powder charge is perfectly adequate.
Let's say in the 90-100-grain range. No need to load heavier than that, under most conditions. Good shot placement is more important.

Some areas around Saskatoon can be fairly open. So 200 yard shots are possible. But... there is still plenty that is fairly heavily wooded. So short range shots are common. Man times, a shot will present itself at 50 yards...or less.
So scope mounting is highly recommended. A versatile choice would be a 2-7, 3-9, or other low to moderate power scope. Even a fixed 4-X will deliver. In similar fashion to centerfire cartridge rifles, I like to sight my muzzleloader for a point of impact about `1 1/2"-2" high at 100 yards/meters. That will deliver good point blank aiming out to at least 125-150 yards. Or longer, once you become familiar with your hunting rig.
Hope this helps

Al

ps: Contrary to popular belief, a lot of Saskatchewan is not dead flat and featureless. In fact, a lot of the area around Saskatoon features plenty of rolling prairie...is even quite hilly, in spots.
 
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I played with a Thompson Center Z5 Omega - 50 cal - was a couple other guys who used muzzle loaders to hunt - from them, and with my range time - I discovered there is significant thickness difference one brand sabot to another - to the extent that the third shot could NOT be rammed down the barrel using the TC sabots that came with the rifle in the kit. I think at the end I was using "Harvester" brand sabots and the bullets made for those - I might be incorrect about the brand - they were the thinnest wall sabots that I could find - at the time, I could order them from Lawry's.

So, that bore needed a scrub - after only two shots, in order to load it a third time - I doubt you could have fired a new sabot in there, for third shot, without a good scrub to remove fouling. At the time, I discovered there was no agreement among muzzle loader makers what diameter is a 50 caliber - so T/C was reputed to be on the tighter side - I think mine was 0.495" groove to groove - a buddy used another brand - I think his rifle was made by "Knight" - his was 0.505" groove to groove. He had suggested to walk around with a patch in your mouth - wet with "spit" - for swabbing/scrubbing the bore after a shot - you needed to have a jag for that - or the inside end of your ramrod shaped/sized for that purpose.

As above - a lot of the places that you will sit for deer are near creek bush, etc. - usually tall grass - shots can be as close as 15 yards. In my experience around Saskatoon and similar - you will SEE deer out circa 600 yards or more - does not mean that you have a kill shot, though. I never got a deer with one, but from time and shots on the shooting range, standing beside shooting table with my stuff laid out - it would take up to a minute to get off the second shot - I am sure standing in field and fishing stuff out of pockets and bags, could easily take twice that long - so, if you have fired, should have thought you had a kill shot - so re-load, BEFORE you go looking.

Was old time thinking - like archery - how far away can you hit an 8" paper plate? Every time - anywhere on the paper plate - that is your maximum range - does not matter what the load or bullet or rifle can do - is most often the shooter and his aiming / trigger break that is going to be the limiting factor. What you can do seated at shooting table and shooting from sand bags, means not much compared to standing on your hind legs and trying to get off a shot - or, in my case, hauling my fat butt up and down a coulee or two and then trying to shoot.

A local guy who took many, many white tail deer with his 50 calibre muzzle loader - circa 85 or 90 grain powder load - usually dressed in blue jeans, T-shirt and ball cap - sat in an aluminum frame folding lawn chair in tall grass - told me he had many does and fawns within 10 yards or less. He gave me a handful of Hornady XTP pistol bullets that he most commonly used - maybe 245 grain or so?? Watch your wind - you want it in your face, or perhaps from one side or other, not on your back. Is my thought is what muzzle loading and archery hunting might be - an ambush - so you will discover whether "camo" clothing is for hiding you from game or hiding you from other people - I do know that deer are SUPER aware of movement - even to see your eyes moving - not convinced they are much about colour or shape, at least not like we are, or birds.

I do not know how much was due to marketing, or how much was truly needed, but my impression was that one carried a whole pile more gizmo's to muzzle load, versus other systems - need a way to get in there - so ramrod and short starter rod. Need a way to seat that bullet without messing it up - so a tip for those rods that matched to the bullet. Then a threaded screw thing to put on that rod and get hold of the bullet that you loaded without powder first. A wrench to undo that breech plug - some grease for the threads of that breech plug; a spare breech plug. A way to carry, and then to insert, the primers. Something to meter out or measure the powder - and the powder itself - and sabots and bullets. Usually a bunch of pockets or a "possibles" bag - and then root through that to find what you need at the moment.
 
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To add on to Potashminer's comments: .50 caliber muzzleloading bore diameters do vary somewhat. With the average being around .502"-503". In the case of a tight bore and saboted, .44-calibe bullets, going to a sabot (black)intended for .45 caliber bullets...instead of regular .44 sabots, often makes loading easier. As the petal walls are thinner. Base diameters of either .44/.45 sabot are identical. Only difference is in petal wall thickness. Should you happen to own a Gonic GA-93, for example, as I do.....whose bores are right on .500", this is my preferred method.

Otherwise, swabbing out black powder fouling between shots(whenever possible), is often a good habit to develop.

One product I've been using exclusively for many years, is ordinary isopropyl alcohol(rubbing alcohol). One wet patch, followed by a dry patch or two, pretty much removes all fouling in short order.

In a fanny pack, I carry a supply of alcohol along with me in a small squirt bottle. A handful of cleaning patches(usually cut from old flannel shirts), in a plastic sandwich bag. Along with whatever else needed that day: Bullet starter. Cap dispenser. Bullet screw. Patch worm. Extra sabots/bullets. Extra pre-measured powder charges(I use old film containers for this purpose. I prefer loose powder). Pellets work well, too.
Perhaps a few other small bits and pieces. A person doesn't require much extra gear. Keeping it to a minimum is best.

As already mentioned, .44-cal. Hornady XTP bullets are very popular. Often selling out quickly, as hunting season approaches. If you can find some, .44/265-grain Hornady bullets(intended for .444 Marlin), are also an excellent choice. I prefer these, overall. When not shooting my own cast, .430" lead bullets(310-grain, Lee mold).

As you can see, there are any number of options when black powder hunitng. You will soon find what works best, for you.

Hope this helps.

Al
 
To be clear - you are using the term "muzzle loading" as if that is equivalent to "black powder "- is not so, any more - there is at least one brand of "muzzle loader" that is rated for smokeless powder. I have never used black powder - only the substitutes like Triple Seven, various Pyrodex or Blackhorn 209 - they are not "black powder". If you go with "loose" powder - most of them will come in various granulations - "FF" or "FFF" and so on. At one time, I think Remington brand sold a 209 sized primer specifically for muzzle loader rifles - some powder are quite clear on their label that they want actual shotgun 209 primers, not "made for muzzle loader" 209. Even the phrase "muzzle loading" can be misleading - will be "modern" in-line muzzle loaders that use Shotgun 209 primers - but will also be traditional "side lock" that use a precussion cap, and even more traditional that use a flint to create a spark to ignite the priming pan powder - all are referred to as "muzzle loaders", because that is how you get the main powder charge in there behind a bullet - although many ignition types, though.

You may discover that the twist rate in your barrel, might be related to the type of bullet that it shoots best - will be some shooters using saboted bullets and some shooters using "conical" bullets - your barrel may be better suited better to one or the other. I did once dig out a "conical" cast lead bullet from a 100 yard plywood backstop at our little range - the bullet was sideways in the plywood - some combination of extremely low velocity and totally inappropriate twist to stabilize that thing.
 
I've been hunting Saskatchewan with a muzzleloader for the past 9 seasons. Started off with a cheap CVA Wolf and moved on to an Accura V2. Both have killed a lot of critters from deer to moose.

I used to shoot BH209 in my Accura V2 until I ran out of powder and it's been impossible to find around. I switched to WhiteHots and they're alright but definitely not as good as BH209. Make sure to sight and range your shots properly. There's a big difference between 100, 150 and 200m. I make sure I can hit out to 200m. Like mentioned before, Saskatchewan can be flat, but it's not all that flat. I hunt mainly around Saskatoon and it is very hilly.

For whitetail, September archery and October muzzleloader seasons are alright. Those two weeks of season in November when we get a cold front can get crazy!!! Hands down best time of the year to chase rutted whitetail bucks. When it comes to hunting the Prairies, don't overlook those gullies, river bottoms and everything that has cover. During the rut, everything changes, once it's on, those bucks are on their feet chasing does. You'll see them anywhere, they can hide 11 months out of the year then all of a sudden you'll see bucks all day everyday. If the weather doesn't cooperate, it can slow things down though but if you put in the work you will see deer.

I know you're coming from BC, but make sure you still know the difference between a whitetail and mule deer, don't be that guy...
 
I can confirm that after 2 shots with 777 in a CVA, you need to clean the powder ring from the barrel or else both accuracy falls off, and you have a terrible time seating the third projectile properly. Personally, I used my Savage 10mlii with SR4759, no cleaning required. But, its a beastly big rifle compared to the break barrels.
 
People above have great comments/suggestions.

I would recommend buying a pack of CVA PowerBelts for your pack. Lots of love and hate for them on the internet, but after you shoot your saboted bullet first shot, using a PowerBelt for 2nd (and possibly 3rd) shot is the way to go. Too much "crud ring" in the barrel for a second tight-fitting sabot.

One hunt here in Ontario my buddy shot a deer with his CVA ML. Spined it. He tried to get a second Barnes saboted round into his ML and it stuck part way down the barrel. He had to wait until another of our group got to where he was to finish off the deer. He now carries 2 PowerBelts in his pocket/hunting sack for that follow-up (kill) shot.

Yes, I know that sighting in your ML with saboted pistol bullet will hit differently than the PowerBelt, but I find that impact is only off by 4-6" at 100 yards, so "good enough for deer" IMHO.

I also like the ribbed harvester sabots from Lawry's (or Hummason? I forget). I use them with Hornady 45 (or 44) caliber pistol bullets.

YMMV.
 
70m4hwk: Forgot to mention a powder measure. One that measures up to at least 120 grains will usually suffice. Should you prefer to use loose powder, one of these will be essential. Otherwise, go with pellets. These offer great convenience.

Also a nipple wrench. Don't really need to carry one while hunting, under most circumstances. But, needed for cleaning the muzzle loader after use.

It bears mentioning that regardless of powder type, whether traditional black powder(Goex, Swiss, etc.) or substitutes, ie: 777, APP, Pyrodex, and so on, powder charges are measured by volume,
rather than weight.

Note: Some of the subs may be of different density than black powder. Pyrodex RS for example, weighs approximately 15% less than an equivalent charge of Goex Ffg. But, will take up about the same volume in the measure. So simply use the same volumetric setting for Pyrodex. as you would for Goex Ffg.

For example: When the powder measure is set for 100 grains...that same setting will deliver about equivalent performance with Pyrodex RS as it would Ffg. Likewise, with most of the other bp subs. One exception being 777. This powder generally delivers higher velocity per charge, than bp.

I reference Ffg here, as most .50 caliber muzzleloaders offer good performance using Ffg(black powder) or equivalent, for powder. When purchasing powder, ie: subs, be sure to check the label to ensure it is in your preferred granulation. For those rifles with bore diameters under .50...ie: 45 cal., Fffg or equivalent is always a good choice.

As far as muzzleloading supplies go: Cabelas and North Pro Sports usually stock a reasonably good assortment of the gear you will need. Both, in Saskatoon.

Not in Saskatoon, but a good source for muzzleloading supplies of all kinds: Rusty Wood Trading. Also a site sponsor. Has an online site.
Note: Currently showing some accessories, etc., out of stock.

For other online orders: Track of the Wolf. An excellent source. Also: Dixie Gun Works. Both in the U.S., but no problem ordering.

There are likely a few more I've missed, but these should get you started.,

Hope this helps.

Al
 
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I will go against the grain here and tell you I have loaded up to six shots of 777 pellets under the pre packaged Hornady XTP sabots in my CVA Optima 2 without any cleaning or issues. Got it on sale at Cabela’s two years ago for about $300, dropped a scope on it and that was it.

Boiling water down the bore then an oiled patch with the ram rod to clean it once you get it home. A dab of grease or oil on the breech plug threads, clear the flash hole with a bronze brush from your rifle kit and a piece of wire.

The one thing I do recommend for extended shooting sessions is a second breech plug, as after a few shots the flash hole fouls enough that the delayed ignition will hurt the accuracy if you don’t clean it or just spin a new one in.

No matter what your level of marksmanship, adjust your expectations to the instrument. Lots of people talk about shots of 200 yards, but in my books 100 is a hard limit for muzzleloading hunting.
 
oneadam12: That's sound advice. Shooting bp firearms...even inlines....is a different discipline. Though similar in many ways to shooting smokeless cartridge rifles, it still takes a different mind set. Sure... relatively long shots are achievable....but in reality, it's better to focus on good marksmanship skills where it really counts....100 yards or less. Where the majority of shots at game will happen. Plus...good, consistent loading procedure.

When cleaning my bp guns, I follow pretty much the same procedure. Hot, soapy water for the initial flush/clean, followed by hot water flushing. I like the barrels to get almost too hot to touch...it helps in the drying process.
Followed by a good oiling.

Contrary to popular belief, cleaning bp guns isn't a difficult process, once mastered. Perhaps taking a bit more time than the average cartridge rifle. But not all that much, with practice.

As well as grease(Any synthetic grease will do. I often use a dab of white lithium grease on breech plug or nipple threads), teflon tape works well to keep bp fouling out of the breech plug threads, too.

Al
 
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70m4hwk: The tape is simply applied to the clean breech plug threads. No other grease etc., needed. Frankly, I've found this solution one of the easiest, cleanest methods for keeping the threads fouling-free and breech plug or nipple easier to remove. Especially during those times when the rifle sees frequent use: Hunting season, range sessions, etc. Have been using tape, for quite a few years, now.

For long term storage(over winter) though, I still like to grease the (non-taped) threads. Mostly to reduce the chance of rust forming.

Al
 
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the good old side hammer guns work very well with true black powder and triple 7 loose powder, I have had them all and for meat getting I rely on triple 7 3fg loose powder with your choice of sabot/bullet/ or conical.
get out and practice all summer ...lots of fun to shoot and cheap to shoot.
my son got his first muzzleloader buck last year and it was a big one, in a snowstorm . The bucks were moving like crazy He wants to upgrade from his knight to my T/C encore...but they all knock them down. Only difference is how fast and how well you clean them afterwards. we will sell his knight and he can use my encore I am going back to a side hammer with conical.
 
I use a CVA Wolf. I got it at Cabelas with teh Konus scope a few years ago. On sale for 400 bucks.
The Konus scopes are great.
The thing is Sub-Moa.
The Wolf and Optima are both outstnading inlines. My buddies use either.
If you get one use the Hornady bullets and White Hots. Wicked wicked accurate.
I gave up bow. Muzzie is just too much fun.
 
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