Installing a rail on an AR180B with screws/bolts (not using the plate) ?

G37

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I've heard that some people have installed Picatinny rails on AR180B's with low-profile bolts/screws from the underside of the upper going into the rail.

For an AR180B that has had the plate removed, Can anyone please post Contact Information for whoever does this work?
 
Luqid_Snake said:
make a collar nut and make it free float

machine shop cost me 40 bucks
He means a scope base on the reciever.


My gunsmith did the job for me. He actually screwed it in from the top, threading into the upper. He used 6 machine screws so there is plenty of holding power. Hasn't failed yet in the 3 or so years it's been like that.

As for finding people to do it, I can't help.
 
Another thread that went sideways.....

I take it that the factory mount is not stable enough, and you want to permanently mount rings or a rail to the reciever?

I hope it wasn't some sub-standard welding that is the problem;)
 
^ Heheh... not at all. :)

Being a former AR15 guy it's hard to go from fixed (solid) rail to floating rail under spring tension; with the default 180b setup there is some flex/play in the floating rail which I find undesirable (might be acceptable at short ranges, but no way could you put a scope on it).
 
AR-180B rail installation

The way I installed the the rail on mine after carefully grinding the original scope mount off was to line up and mark the top of the receiver with the predrilled picatinny mount that I was using then drilled and tapped and installed at least 6 or 8, 8-32 machine screws or socket head screws.I then applied a industrial black epoxy and screwed it down and cleaned up the excess before it dried.I then took a die grinder to the inside of the reciever and cleaned off the excess thread flusg and its held for 4 years now and is as low as you can get. Thanks--Dieseldog1
 
tootall said:
I hope it wasn't some sub-standard welding that is the problem;)

This is a bit of a joke between G37 and mysefl. He knew I am a metal fabricator, so he PMed me a few days ago. His mount plate fell off his brand new rifle, and he wondered if I could put it back on.
It seems that the mounting plate is held on by two very small welds, and one of them broke away (or never was properly fused together) almost as soon as he attempted to mount a rail to it. Then the other weld broke soon after.

I thought it was a "spot" or resistance weld, in which the two pieces (mount plate and reciever) are held together and current is passed through them via contacts that press onto the two pieces.
But it looks more like a plug weld, in which a hole is drilled in one plate, and an arc is struck to fill in the hole, locking both pices together.
Anyway, we decided to try and do another pair of plug welds, so I drilled out the original welds, and opened the holes up a bit to allow the arc to reach to the lower plate.

DSCF1079.jpg


We the clamped the parts together, hoping that we were lined up properly!

DSCF1080.jpg


A pair of welds later, it was joined.

DSCF1081.jpg


Then we gring down the welds flush to the plate.

DSCF1083.jpg


Unfortunately...................................
it didn't work.:(
The welds did not properly fuse to the reciever again. This is the problem with trying to weld into a blind hole of such small diameter. Also, I was very concerned about cooking the reciever, so i had the machine set low.

So..., instead, I put two fillet welds along the narrow portion of the plate. I didn't think to photo this version, maybe G37 has pics. Anyway, you can see the narrow part in the first pic. I welded along the edges, then he ground down the excess to allow the rail to mount on. It worked fine, plenty strong, except that there is a minute amount of play in the plate/rail connection.

So, while the quick detach idea is convenient, it really doesn't work for long range accuracy.
 
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