What I learned with the few AR's I put together, the best advice is to have multiple barrel nuts and use the one that lines up perfectly. Trying to get the notches to line up can get you to 80ft/lbs quick (always seems to be that way when you have just the one).
Installing AR barrel without torque wrench?
- Thread starter themikea
- Start date
Gunnerlove
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vancouver Island
People including individuals trained how to do it right openly admit to guessing on torque?
Well I admit to using a calibrated torque wrench and the correct moly based lube on barrel nuts.
Well I admit to using a calibrated torque wrench and the correct moly based lube on barrel nuts.
...and galling.
Non-graphite based moly grease or copper anti-seize, that's what the pros use.
Most professionals don't bother using a torque wrench.
Hand tight plus next hole allignment.
if you need a torque wrench to figure this out, all the power to you.
if one is tightening a barrel nut beyond hand tight + next hole alignment, they are either over torquing or their definition of 'hand tight' is that of a 4 year old red-headed step child.
if you need a torque wrench to figure this out, all the power to you.
if one is tightening a barrel nut beyond hand tight + next hole alignment, they are either over torquing or their definition of 'hand tight' is that of a 4 year old red-headed step child.
When you hand tighten it snug you will be at the very low end of the minimum, therefore next hole will be within spec, 2nd hole will be way out above max.
Gunnerlove
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vancouver Island
They appeared to be using them at the NGMTC in Little Rock, so I will continue using mine.
I also torque muzzle devices.
It must be a sickness.
I also torque muzzle devices.
It must be a sickness.
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I understand that some pro's may not use torque wrenches based on my experience . . .
I've been working on Dirt Bikes for years, and modern bikes are made mostly out of aluminum, engine and frame.
As a n00b, you learn quickly how unforgiving aluminum is to over torque, so you end up buying and using a torque wrench.
After you've used the wrench enough you get a feel for what the torque is on any given nut that you have to be specific with.
After a while of fastening the same nut so many times, you have that feeling down, and find yourself no longer using the torque wrench.
So yeah, a pro, who has built hundred's of AR's over many years, I can see why he'd no longer use one.
I'll say, if he's new and in training, he deserves a kick in the pants for not using one, but years later, if he's worth his salt, I won't think twice if he doesn't.
It's not about guessing, it's about doing it so many damn times you just know.
I've been working on Dirt Bikes for years, and modern bikes are made mostly out of aluminum, engine and frame.
As a n00b, you learn quickly how unforgiving aluminum is to over torque, so you end up buying and using a torque wrench.
After you've used the wrench enough you get a feel for what the torque is on any given nut that you have to be specific with.
After a while of fastening the same nut so many times, you have that feeling down, and find yourself no longer using the torque wrench.
So yeah, a pro, who has built hundred's of AR's over many years, I can see why he'd no longer use one.
I'll say, if he's new and in training, he deserves a kick in the pants for not using one, but years later, if he's worth his salt, I won't think twice if he doesn't.
It's not about guessing, it's about doing it so many damn times you just know.
Gunnerlove
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Effing up your receiver seems like a possible alternative.
If you are trying to save money by not buying tools wrecking parts is a bad way to do it.
If you are trying to save money by not buying tools wrecking parts is a bad way to do it.
I looked up a method somewhere on the internet that worked well. I cut up a plastic kitchen cutting board. enough 2.5" pieces to fill the space between the Takedown and Pivot pin holes, then a longer piece covering the holes and one on the rail. Was pretty slick for installing a barrel... but not sure about disassembly given the effort some people need to loosen the barrel nut.
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boss351cleveland
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Down by the river
yes it is a must .. i carved one out of wood very quickly..
You want the receiver to be held in place when installing a barrel nut, not the barrel extension, otherwise all the force is taken by the indexing lug on top and there is a good probability of damaging the receiver and having a canted barrel. If you're messing with the muzzle the extension block is a good idea, or at the very least a barrel/fsb block, otherwise all the force will be concentrated on the indexing pin yet again.
Receiver blocks that have pins that lock into the taketown and pivot holes are not good. What you want is a way to stabilize the whole receiver. The method posted by Canuk^^ is a good one. Any block or method that doesn't use the pivot/takedown holes is good.
And let's be real, how many people have stripped upper receiver threads as a result of applying too much torque? There are Colts that come with barrel nuts torqued upwards of 90ft-lbs. It's a non-issue.
Receiver blocks that have pins that lock into the taketown and pivot holes are not good. What you want is a way to stabilize the whole receiver. The method posted by Canuk^^ is a good one. Any block or method that doesn't use the pivot/takedown holes is good.
And let's be real, how many people have stripped upper receiver threads as a result of applying too much torque? There are Colts that come with barrel nuts torqued upwards of 90ft-lbs. It's a non-issue.
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