Installing/Removing/Reinstalling A Remington 700 Barrel

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msg.drew

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I did a search but didn't find what I was looking for...I have done work on guns, custom builds but nothing ever on a bolt action high power rifle.

I have a Remington 700 SPS Tactical 20", I have a factory remington 700 police 26" barrel. I want to remove the 20" and install the 26" barrel I want to do this myself is it as simple as unscrewing and screwing on the new one or is it more complicated then that...

What do I need to know and what do I need to buy or make to do the job properly I dont want this thing blowing up in my face when I am done.
 
To unscrew the original barrel, you will need a barrel vise and a receiver wrench. These must engage the barrel and receiver properly, or there will be damage.
The same tools will be used to torque on the replacement barrel.
The new barrel will screw right on.
However, it will be necessary to confirm that the breeching is correct - the gap between the barrel counterbore and bolt nose, as well as the barrel face and the front of the locking lugs.
Neither of these barrels has sight holes, so indexing is not a big deal, unless you want the lettering in the factory position.
You will need at least a No Go gauge. If the barrelled action will freely accept unfired cartridge cases, and will not accept a No Go gauge, headspace is OK. It is better to use a Go gauge, instead of unfired cases.
If the breeching is out, you will need access to a lathe. If headspace is insufficient, you will need a reamer. If headspace is excessive, a lathe will be necessary to correct the situation.
It is a crapshoot whether or not headspace will be within limits. The likelyhood of indexing being on is slight. If indexing is important, a lathe will be needed.
 
I have seen a lot of M700s with thread sealant. Sometimes it helps to heat up the receiver ring to make it easier to remove the barrel. (Hot enough to fry spit, not enough to change any heat treatment.) Stinks. But this was from the factory.
There is no reason to use a thread locker.
 
Seems like this is alot more complicated then lets say installing a 10/22 barrel or compensated barrel on a 1911

If its installed from the factory with thread sealant then I would use it I want to do the same job as they would do from the factory.

Next question does anyone rent or let you borrow the tools to do the job so I dont have to make them or buy them.
 
msg.drew said:
Seems like this is alot more complicated then lets say installing a 10/22 barrel or compensated barrel on a 1911

If its installed from the factory with thread sealant then I would use it I want to do the same job as they would do from the factory.

Next question does anyone rent or let you borrow the tools to do the job so I dont have to make them or buy them.
Click to expand...

It is a lot more complicated than changing barrels that are designed to be swapped by anyone. They are not made for the owner to do this.

Remington has used a thread sealant on some rifles and not on others... there seems to be no rule to it.

Why are you so set that you want to do the unscrewing, fitting and head spacing and screwing the other barrel on, & indexing the recoil lug, when you do not have the knowledge or the tools? I doubt any 'smith' will rent you his equipment or shop let alone lend anything out.
 
Because I like doing the work myself... it get satisfaction from the job... learning how to do new things. Its fun. Plus then if I buy the tools Ill be able to switch it back and honestly I dont trust other people to do things for me... when it comes to my car I fix it myself.
 
I tried to unscrew the barrel stub out of a chopped Remington receiver without the proper tools. I put the remnant of the action in my vice and used the biggest pipe wrench I had (not a huge one) and couldn't budge the barrel stub.

I will reiterate that there is no reason to use a thread locker when installing a barrel. "Just because the factory does it" is a poor reason. Ruger puts recoil pads with the Goodyear logo (check for yourself) on their rifles, including teh 416 Rigby and 458 Lott. They're hard as an old tire and do precious little to soften recoil. But that's what the factory does, dumb idea or not.

If you really want to learn how to swap a barrel off your rifle maybe you could have a local smith show you how it's done. Or sell the Remington and buy a Savage. :D
 
I am a remington man your not going to talk me into a savage sorry.

Are they reverse threaded? maybe your not turing it the right way.
 
I bought my tools, the Wheeler vise and wrench are not that expensive, throw in a few headspace gauges at 25$ a piece and your good to go. Fitting factory take off barrels is a crap shoot, some will headspace properly, some won't...you really don't have any choice then but to take them to the smith to be fit properly. You will save money and time thought if you can take the barrel off your self, take it to the smith just hand tight. Less work for him and less $ for you. You also have the option of getting some barrels with the "nut" system and then you can do everything your self...plus it's fun.
 
No gunsmith is going to lend you his tools. Most of them we make ourselves. You can always stop by my house if you want, if your nearby. We can pull off the barrel, check and see if the other one will screw right on or not. If it needs lathe or reamer work we can do it right there or we can always put the original barrel back on and you can go home no charge.

PM me, we could do some bartering if you want. :)
 
Now, an option may be to spring for a barrel set up for the same style quick change nut that the Savage guns use.

Mysticplayer is selling some for the 700 now.

Headspace gages, a wrench, plus whatever it would cost to have the barrels threaded to match...

Just another possibility.

No cheap good way out on this one.

Cheers
Trev
 
I made my own barrel vice and receiver wrench, if you are only going to do one job it is not economical to buy all the tools necessary to switch the barrels. If you are looking at expanding your hobby then by all means get them. There are some good resources out there including Hinnants book on "Precision Rifle Barrel Fitting" or the AGI videos. In all likelihood to switch the barrels will need some machine work to correct headspace, counterbore clearance and barell face / bolt lug clearance. If you have an interest in doing this type of work it can be a lot of fun. Good luck :)
 
Suggest you take up LJN on his gracious offer. You'll learn more in an hour than you will in a month on the internet. To boot, if the new barrel "fits up" without tinkering, you'll be out the door for less than the cost of gas.
 
I have a vise and wrench but I only use it to unscrew barrels and send action to a qualified gunsmith to head space it the proper way.
I pull my own wrenches on my vehicles but only go so far and let the pros do the rest. ;) I don`t like to blow things up or worse yet myself, from the lack of know how lol
 
msg.drew said:
Would you be willing to lend me or rent me your tools... or should I just buy some from brownells or sinclairs ?
Click to expand...

No rocket science or brain surgeon. Brownells have a great selection of tool you can purchase, the other one is Ken ferral he does sell barrel vice and action wrench.
 
What are the odds of getting a new 700 sps action is this even possible to order?
anyone seen a short action forsale in the EE?

I am thinking before I go taking a part a MOA shooting rifle it would be easier to start with another action and see if they just screw together and are go to go.
 
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