Intersurplus 30-06 rifles?

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Sunny1

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Hi all,

I'm new to big caliber rifles and was looking for a cheap bush/beater larger cal rifle and seen intersurplus has some cheap fn98 and m98s. However I haven't seen many reviews of them. Can anyone comment on the reliability accuracy etc? Also what's the difference between the m and fn lines ?
 
The M98 was built off of refurbed Military 98 actions. The FN98 was a commercial version action built by FN in Belgium.

At any rate, Husqvarna put the rifles together as sporters in the 40's and 50's.
The 98 controlled feed #### on open action is considered by a lot of people to be one of the best ever made, and is still being produced today.

A rifle with a good bore should be a great shooter. Can't really go wrong with a $400 rifle you don't feel bad about tossing into a truck.
I see a lot of them are listed as having 'small cracks' behind the tang which would be common when the stock dries out and shrinks and recoil starts the crack when the tang gets driven into the stock. Could also have been caused by poor stock fit at the recoil lug.
 
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Paul T is telling it straight.

I've purchased several rifles from Intersurplus. They usually understate the condition of their firearms in their descriptions.

Just understand, that you NEED TO BE FAMILIAR WITH CONDITION TERMS, such as FAIR, GOOD, VERY GOOD, or EXCELLENT.

There are a few different interpretations of the words and the condition grades they represent in a percentage manner.

GOOD does not indicate a condition that looks close to new. Many newbies get caught up in not doing their due diligence.

Google NFA rifle condition rating guidelines. They're pretty close to NRA ratings

They will describe what you can expect from a written description from a dealer.

Not all written descriptions from others can be trusted to follow the NFA or NRA ratings.

From the rifles you're looking at, IMHO you should look at the Husqvarna 1640, it's a bit pricier but the action will be extremely smooth and some of them have aftermarket bolt knobs to make them easier to use with gloves. The stocks are mostly Beech, but very well-fitted

When you're purchasing these rifles, many of them need small repairs or have worn throats.

I always wonder what someone means by a "truck gun"

If a rifle isn't acceptably accurate for its intended purpose at the range, it isn't good enough for hunting.

If you're looking for a rifle, chambered in a common cartridge, to "plink" at rocks or stumps with, that's different, but not much fun.

IMHO, the firearms offered by Intersurplus are mostly bargains and you get more than what you paid for.

However, the more you pay, the better you get.

I can tell you from previous, personal experience the Husqvarna 1640 at the top of the page, from the description that goes with it, will be smooth, accurate and with a bit of perfunctory cleaning, will be ready to put a scope on and use for just about anything you intend to do with it.

The tolerances on those rifles built them a fine reputation.

They're old and have been hunted with, but they're very serviceable with a lot of life left in them.

They're at least 50 years old and built to better tolerances than most of their American counterparts of the same period.
 
Everything you wanted to know is here: https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/486796-Husqvarna-Sporting-Rifles-ALL-MODELS!!!

I bought a HVA FN 98 Mauser from them in 9.3 x 62. It came with a QD side scope mount which allows you to sight under the scope with the irons. It also seems to hold zero when you take the scope off and put it back on. In many respects it looks like a new rifle. These are generally better rifles than about anything made today. Controlled feed, large ejectors, silky smooth actions. Positive and reliable feeding and ejection. I have shot a couple 100 yard sub MOA groups with mine. I think I paid $465 for it.
 
bearhunter said:
Paul T is telling it straight.

I've purchased several rifles from Intersurplus. They usually understate the condition of their firearms in their descriptions.

Just understand, that you NEED TO BE FAMILIAR WITH CONDITION TERMS, such as FAIR, GOOD, VERY GOOD, or EXCELLENT.

There are a few different interpretations of the words and the condition grades they represent in a percentage manner.

GOOD does not indicate a condition that looks close to new. Many newbies get caught up in not doing their due diligence.

Google NFA rifle condition rating guidelines. They're pretty close to NRA ratings

They will describe what you can expect from a written description from a dealer.

Not all written descriptions from others can be trusted to follow the NFA or NRA ratings.

From the rifles you're looking at, IMHO you should look at the Husqvarna 1640, it's a bit pricier but the action will be extremely smooth and some of them have aftermarket bolt knobs to make them easier to use with gloves. The stocks are mostly Beech, but very well-fitted

When you're purchasing these rifles, many of them need small repairs or have worn throats.

I always wonder what someone means by a "truck gun"

If a rifle isn't acceptably accurate for its intended purpose at the range, it isn't good enough for hunting.

If you're looking for a rifle, chambered in a common cartridge, to "plink" at rocks or stumps with, that's different, but not much fun.

IMHO, the firearms offered by Intersurplus are mostly bargains and you get more than what you paid for.

However, the more you pay, the better you get.

I can tell you from previous, personal experience the Husqvarna 1640 at the top of the page, from the description that goes with it, will be smooth, accurate and with a bit of perfunctory cleaning, will be ready to put a scope on and use for just about anything you intend to do with it.

The tolerances on those rifles built them a fine reputation.

They're old and have been hunted with, but they're very serviceable with a lot of life left in them.

They're at least 50 years old and built to better tolerances than most of their American counterparts of the same period.
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I always wonder what someone means by a "truck gun"

Truck-gun is a loose description; generally a firearm that you won't be too upset with it getting bumped, scratched, or dirty; easily accessed, and adequate for it's intended purpose. Like a hammer in the tool box; there when you need it, reliable but nothing special.

Back in the day when we farmed, it was not uncommon to see .22s, .22 mags used in that capacity to dispatch varmints in and around the farm, or maybe heavier rifles for livestock defense. Depending on the purposes, it could be a rifle, shotgun, and even a hand-gun in jurisdictions where they are allowed (not here certainly). Presently, when I feel the need (camping/fishing trip etc.) where there might be an advantage to having one along; my current choice is my cheap little Savage 64 in a plastic folding stock. Reliable, handy. and does not take up much room in it's small case.
 
OP - if you are not familiar with those - you might want to look up what is "controlled round feed" - many seem to think that is the large, external non-rotating extractor - is part of it, but is not what is "controlled round feed". For CRF, need the cartridge under "control" either by the magazine, receiver feed lips or the bolt face, at every instant - versus "push feed" - where a loose cartridge is "pushed" along until it is chambered, then the extractor lip cams over the cartridge rim to grab it. Original Mausers were all CRF - was discovered that the leading edge of the extractor could be ground off to be sloped - original extractors are not - meaning, if "ground", is possible to place a cartridge into chamber and close the bolt - an original, unaltered Mauser will not. Is one of the things that I think is "better" about the Enfield P14 or M1917 - they are controlled round feed when cartridge coming up from magazine - or, they can be "push feed" if you drop a round into the chamber - WWI Instructions to Soldiers for using M1917 describe doing that - note how the extractor noses are much larger / more robust on an Enfield compared to a Mauser - Enfield's often have "space" to right side to allow that extractor to cam outwards to get over the case rim. A good "rule of thumb" when using a Mauser, unless you know different, for sure, is to ALWAYS snap a round into the magazine before closing the bolt - will never get a "jam" by doing that on a Mauser 98.

A Lee Enfield SMLE or No. 4 or No. 5 is typically CRF, when feeding from the magazine - but typically allow "push feed" single loading - even though they do not have the large external non-rotating extractor like on a Mauser.

If you "short stroke" a push feed - without closing the bolt handle, you will get one round in the chamber and the next one from the magazine "jammed" up behind it on your bolt face. Will not happen with a CRF rifle, used in that CRF mode - if you "short stroke", then the first round is going to be ejected from the rifle - whether it fully chambered and seated or not - the chamber is left clear and open - and apparently "short stroke" happens when excited - like hunting or in battle. On a CRF, the bolt face and extractor have hold of the case rim, as soon as the feed lips allow the cartridge to "pop up" from the magazine - a "push feed" will not have hold of it until that round is chambered and the bolt handle is closed.

"Controlled round feed" might be an "ado" about nothing important - was at least one older USA article about being able to hang from knees from tree branch and a CRF would work, whereas a "push feed" would not - was not really a scenario that demonstrated a lot of advantage to me - however, I have "short stroked", and I have been not able to close the bolt on a single "dropped in" round.

I have hunted deer circa 48 years with "push feed" rifles - a Win Model 70 that I bought new in 1976, and then a Ruger No. 1. The current rifle for night time and back yard work is a Husqvarna 649 (I think) - the Mauser 98 action is made by FN in Belgium - I presume the extractor has been ground - but I use that one as a "CRF".
 
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I bought 5 such rifles from Intersuplus. 3 in 30-06 and 2 in 9.3 Their descriptions are accurate. $400 or $500 there gets a better quality rifle than a new one at the same price.

The critical thing to know when you use the rifle (or lend it to someone) is that you must chamber the round from the magazine. You can't just pop it into the chamber, like you can with a Lee Enfield.

The barrels needed cleaning. Add a scope with low rings and you are good to go.
 
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I have a 96s and 98s the 98s are much nicer due to the #### on open as suggested. And also as Suggested $400 for a 30-06 sporter you can treat it like it’s $3,000 gun or a $150 POS truck gun. Go for it, I’ve ordered from interaurplus and frontier 6.5x55, 9.3 , 8x57. Haven’t been disappointed, as long as you don’t expect a pristine rifle from the rack you won’t be displeased!
 
I’ll depart from the discussion about Mauser 98, FN Mauser, and Husqvarna 1600-series rifles and instead recommend that you consider a rifle built on the Husqvarna 1900 action. These rifles will be labelled Husqvarna, Carl Gustaf, Viking Arms, or Antonio Zoli, but all four use the same 1900 action. This is not a controlled-round feed action like the Mauser derivatives, but CRF is not needed in 99% of hunting situations, and push-feed has some advantages. This 1900 action is rated as right at the top of bolt actions (at the time of publication) by Stuart Otteson in his excellent book The Bolt Action. It is smooth and wobble-free and will never bind in cycling, and has a shorter bolt lift (79°) than Mauser-derivative actions, all of which makes for faster and smoother operation and the possibility of lower scope mounting. There are dozens available from Intersurplus or Great North Guns in 30-06 at very affordable prices.
 
Meroh said:
I always wonder what someone means by a "truck gun"

Truck-gun is a loose description; generally a firearm that you won't be too upset with it getting bumped, scratched, or dirty; easily accessed, and adequate for it's intended purpose.
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That's how I would describe it as well.
 
Ganderite said:
I bought 5 such rifles from Intersuplus. 3 in 30-06 and 2 in 9.3 Their descriptions are accurate. $400 or $500 there gets a better quality rifle than a new one at the same price.

The critical thing to know when you use the rifle (or lend it to someone) is that you must chamber the round from the magazine. You can't just pop it into the chamber, like you can with a Lee Enfield.

The barrels needed cleaning. Add a scope with low rings and you are good to go.
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X2.

Some CRF Mauser actions can be fed directly into the chamber by pressing hard on the side of the external extractor so that there us less resistance and damage when the extractor goes over the chambered round.

I don't do it to mine but it is a possibility in an emergency.
 
OP - One thing to consider, the 96 and 98 based rifles have fixed floorplate. This means you have to cycle the rounds through the action to unload. The 1600 series Husqvarnas have a hinged floorplate. Also, they have been drilled and tapped at the factory, and have bent bolt suited to scope mounting. Many of the 96 and 98's that are D+T'd were done by bjubba.
 
1600s are great rifles. I've bought 4 over the years and keep looking for a good example in 6.5x55. Affordable, plenty accurate for hunting purposes and I've lucked out with decent woodgrain on a couple.
 
cosmic said:
OP - One thing to consider, the 96 and 98 based rifles have fixed floorplate. This means you have to cycle the rounds through the action to unload. The 1600 series Husqvarnas have a hinged floorplate. Also, they have been drilled and tapped at the factory, and have bent bolt suited to scope mounting. Many of the 96 and 98's that are D+T'd were done by bjubba.
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Not exactly; mine has a pin you push with your thumb and then take the plate and the follower off. Not a big deal and certainly not a deal breaker. A lot handier than a Remington ADL.
 
I bought a bunch from Frontier, a mix of 96, 98, Husqvarna, couple others in 30-06, 8x57, 6.5x55. Also one Brno that a fellow recognized right off the bat. Lots of those rifles came from good homes, often have marks or little tacks to record game taken.
 
fuzzy39 said:
Keep an eye out for the Brno 600 series on their website or the ZG47. Great rifles! A bit more than $500, but real gems.
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I have a 600 30-06 and a 602 .375 H&H.

I agree that their quality is high. An example is the flloorplate of the hinged box magazine. It is machined steel. In this world of stamped steel or moulded plastic it stands out as a product of a bygone era.
 
As for surplus rifles, have a good look at the actions and mounts, lots are drilled and tapped which is ok. Some have the bases for claw mounts which are popular in europe and can be problematic to find in North America $$$$. They can sweated off the bases as most where silver soldered by the smith that fitted them. But some were dovetailed into the receiver which can be problematic.
 
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