Is bedding a picatinny style rail necessary?

blackradon171

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SO is it really necessary to bed a rail? I mean, like some of the high end stuff, the ken farrell, badger ordnance bases, ATRS.. these cost a pretty penny and I am just wondering if it is necessary. The way I've been seeing/reading is to put the front mounting screws and seeing if you can see light from undering the mount and/or slide a piece of paper.. what do you think?

thanks in advance!
 
SO is it really necessary to bed a rail? I mean, like some of the high end stuff, the ken farrell, badger ordnance bases, ATRS.. these cost a pretty penny and I am just wondering if it is necessary. The way I've been seeing/reading is to put the front mounting screws and seeing if you can see light from undering the mount and/or slide a piece of paper.. what do you think?

thanks in advance!

On a precision made rail, meaning 1 that is truly machined to the same contour as the action, it should not be necessary. On rails where the manufacturer simply runs 3 passes down the underside of the causing the action and rail to have very minimal contact , I would bond them to the action.
We manufacture our rails to the full contours of the actions, so assuming your action is in spec, there is absolutely no need to bed/bond them to the action. On the hundreds of 700 actions we work with every year and install our rails onto, we have yet to find 1 that the rail requires anything further than simply blue loktite and proper torque.
 
are all remington 700 actions all the same? Not all rail systems are the same.. brand to brand that is, with that said what is the best way to check? Like I mentioned before is that method acceptable?
 
Tighten the front screws and see if the back raises off the receiver (check for a gap under the rear). If it's good, loosen the front screws and tighten the rear. check for lifting at the front. It's normally the rear that needs to be shimmed. Add SS shims and or Devcon.
 
I bought two EGW 1piece rails. The 0MOA rail needed the rear receiver to be bedded. Then I got an EGW 20MOA rail, that one fit without needing any bedding.

Here's my 0MOA base with the gap.
8988828445_ef1f66cbed.jpg


Here it is after bedding.
8990022282_e5b4b8957b.jpg
 
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My Remington 700 needed the rail to be bed. Weaver 1 piece 20MOA rail. Once I screwed it down in the front, snugly - I could clearly see the gap between the action and the rail at the rear. I used JB Weld to bed the rail to the action and torqued down.
 
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