Is Hoppes #9 formulated for corrosive ammo cleaning?

Boiling water followed by G96 has been working great for me. I just pour several kettles full of boiling water on all metal parts. I try to position my bolts in the sink so that I can pour boiling water on both ends where the pin extrudes. I have yet to dismantle a bolt for cleaning. I also just pour boiling water on my receiver end of the barreled-action, and for the barrel itself, it just gets several oily patches. All other parts gets sprayed with G96. I have never had rust on any part, ever.
 
I bought a plastic stock so don't have to disassemble in case it gets wet. Haven't tried the hot water trick but the grade hose worked great on my muzzleloader
 
Hoppe's number 9 does not work. I use it as my normal gun cleaner. I have a 7.62. No dice. Gun dries, full of brown salt. Lousy on french fries.

Cannon
 
The advantage Windex has over plain water is that it is more effective on carbon fouling, which may conceal additional corrosive salts. The same thing can be said for any number of things: Simple Green, TSP, soapy water, etc. As long as you use some sort of water-based solution to clean, it will be fine.

WD-40 is petroleum-based and will do absolutely nothing to dissolve corrosive residue.

Hoppe's may have originally been developed when corrosive priming was the norm, but the mechanism of corrosion was not understood until later. Hatcher's Notebook provides some historical background on this.
 
I shot corrosive for the first time last week and poured glass cleaner down the bore IMMEDIATELY after shooting the rifle. Then I sprayed Remingtom Brite Bore inside and let it sit for a bit before dripping out. Then I packed it up.

About four hours later I did a full taken down and cleaned the rifle as per usual after shooting, no water used at all.

5 days later and my SKS is rust free and the bore, action and gas system is spotless.
I've heard the salt in the corrosive primers can cause rusting VERY quickly afterwards too.

IMO, the early steps of preventative cleaning after shooting help battle the onset of any rust.
 
100% guaranteed results !!!!!!!!!!!
Dismantle firearm in your pajamas, use a crow feather to call the gun Gods (a dead chicken will do in a pinch).
Mix 1 part coconut milk with 2 parts vodka and save for later use. In a separate bowl mix 2 pounds of IMR 4140
with 3 parts nitroglycerine and stir gently.
Pour entire bowl into barrel, seal chamber and cap the muzzle till next trip to the range.
After the first round any rust will be gone..................................
 
Don't know about Hoppes but G96 will get it done. I haven't cleaned one of my SKSs in years and shot thousands of corrosive through it, I just spray the thing with G96 when I get home. It's dirty as hell, but no rust.

It's also nice when your gun smells like bubblegum.

The following is a repeat post, last time you will hear from me on the subject.

Corrosive primers contain potassium chlorate (KCLO3). It acts as an oxidizer and helps in the controlled burning of the primer explosives. It also acts as a preservative. Properly stored military corrosive ammo can last for 100 years. Non corrosive commercial ammo has a shelf life of about 30 years.


2 KCLO3 ---> 3 O2 + 2 KCL


Potassium chloride (KCL) is a combustion by product. This salt is what can cause corrosion in your weapon.


Windex does not contain any meaningful amount of ammonia. A trace amount of ammonium hydroxide is used as a ph adjuster. The "Ammonia D" is a trade name. Windex contains ethyleneglycol monohexylether, water, isopropanol, propylene glycol and blue colorant.


http://www.scjohnson.ca/msds/Windex Ammonia-D.pdf


The water in windex is the only thing that dissolves potassium chloride. The only advantage over cold water is that it dries quickly.


The problem here is that the salts produced by burning the primers is mixed in with the carbon deposits left in the barrel and gas system. Hot water, cold water, or Windex might remove some salt but not all salt. (hot water alone does not remove carbon deposits). You have to remove all carbon deposits to prevent corrosion. Whether you start with water or not does not matter.


To clean I run a few patches soaked with water or windex down the barrel, gas system etc.. Then clean as per a normal weapon. Remove all carbon build up with a solvent. Ed's Red solvent, Gunzilla CLP or G96 do a fine job. Leave a heavy coating of oil in the barrel and the gas system when storing. Oiled parts do not rust. G96, Fluid Film, and properly made Ed's Red gun oil also contain lanolin (the wax from sheep wool). This wax is particularly good at preventing metal from rusting. This wax coating prevents oxygen from reacting with the metal in your gun ( a reaction enhanced by the presence of salt ). Wax tends to work better than oil since it is has a much lower vapour pressure ( does not want to evaporate ). Prior to shooting run a dry patch down barrel, gas system and other areas to remove excess oil or fluid.


Ed's Red formula: (recommend putting lanolin in the Ed's Red)
https://nfa.ca/resource-items/eds-red-homebrew-bore-solvent

Bottom line. If you are having success cleaning your weapon using what ever method you use, stay with it. Always use gloves when handling solvents. Anything that dissolves carbon will be absorbed through your skin, get into your blood stream and eventually harm your internal organs. Black Nitrile gloves are available at Canadian Tire for 33 cents a pair and well worth the investment in your health. If you can smell the cleaner you do not have enough ventilation in your work area. Protect your brain and blood from harmful solvents


Good shooting..and good health to you and yours.
 
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