Possibility that my scope mounts wandered( as they are dovetail style not picatinny rail) so, maybe I’m an idiot and should have checked sooner.
Is it me or does my gun not like my reloads?
- Thread starter g3arhead
- Start date
Torque wrenches are not accurate on the very top or bottom of the torque range (I’m a mechanic). You are 5inch/lbs over max spec if it happens to be accurate. I would get those action screws into the 30-45 inch/lbs range but not before I replaced that damaged recoil lug with a steel one. After that I would personally bed the action but that’s just me. I don’t like wasting time and money loading for rifles with obvious weak points.
Tikkas are great rifles but they have poor stocks/recoil lugs. I would not expect to have consistent accuracy given the information above. Maybe you get a good bit of groups here and there. Maybe you do have other issues like barrel cleanliness or loading practices. Those are still valid concerns. That being said get that rifle squared away before you blow too much cash on components.
Good luck!
antiqueguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- windsor ontario
1.5 inches don’t seem all too bad to me definitely well within boiler room. I tested the min load with the bullets I’m using in .458 win mag off hand and got 3 inch groups I stopped there as it was good enough for me.
I find myself saying "that'll do" often these days when assessing results. Untested Powder B or C may give 10% better results in accuracy , but comes at a cost of time and components for gains that won't really be noticed in the field over Powder A
I'm assuming you meant in/lbs... 50ft/lbs is 600in/lbs...
Not sure many action bolts could handle that. Not even the M77 angled front screw.
I had a nice little laugh to myself thinking about someone trying to get that many foot pounds of torque on a rifle...because there has definitely been people out there using a larger torque wrench with the wrong values before, collapsing scope tubes, and snapping flat heads, and socket heads off.
antiqueguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- windsor ontario
Pie plate at 100 is about good enough for most things. if I can get it closer it’s better but as long as I can hit vitals I’m fine with it. 100-150 is about my max anyway since 99% of my guns are iron sight but chances are you don’t even got to stretch it that far here in Ontario.
Yes exactly, in/lb.
I don't know if its been mentioned yet but cooling your barrel between groups is a must. On my fluted light barrels I get 3 shots before its too hot and my semi-heavy I can get a few more before its too hot. I started bringing a Milwaukee cordless fan to the range to cool between sessions.
The 308 Win is usually very easy to get to shoot Well ! N140 - Varget - TAC - H4895 - IMR4064 are all good 308 powders
Even the Bullets you are using should get you inside a inch with 3 shots IF your brass is sized properly and your COAL is correct
“ You may have a rifle or scope problem ? “
Just a few thoughts
I usually wait 2 minutes in between and sometimes I’m (embarrassingly) blowing into the action to cool it!
Totally get that. Practically , minute of deer is definitely acceptable. This is definitely me being picky about it, and wanting to try to get a load to be as precise and accurate as possible . If nothing else, it’s an exercise to make me a better reloader .
Would be nice to tell myself, yeah, I can make a load that’s sub MOA with a cheapo bullet.
That’s what I’m hoping for! My scope mount could be a totally different thread. Warne quick detach dovetail mount for Tikka. My first set was wandering . Took it apart and found the recoil pin broken. Yes, I had pushed the rings forward prior to tightening down on the dovetail .The 308 Win is usually very easy to get to shoot Well ! N140 - Varget - TAC - H4895 - IMR4064 are all good 308 powders
Even the Bullets you are using should get you inside a inch with 3 shots IF your brass is sized properly and your COAL is correct
“ You may have a rifle or scope problem ? “
Just a few thoughts
Probably not enough cooling time.
I typically bring 3 rifles and rotate through them while they are on the rack with a fan blowing.
I like starting with a cold bore, especially on a ladder test to reduce any variables that could cause a discrepancy.
Good luck out there.
If your factory ammo shoots well, start there.
Take the velocity readings and record them.
Measure the factory ammo at the ogive ( NOT overall length) and make sure you get your hand loads within .005 of that measurement.
Get your dies up so you get the full neck of the case sized , even bumping the shoulder back .0002 or so will not hurt at all. Make sure your cases will chamber easily into the rifle after sizing.
This is where you start.
Now work up a load that closely matches your factory velocity and group size, and go from there.
It may only take a few rounds, or it my take some time.
The 165 Speer is a good bullet and N140 is a decent powder for the .308
Cat
Take the velocity readings and record them.
Measure the factory ammo at the ogive ( NOT overall length) and make sure you get your hand loads within .005 of that measurement.
Get your dies up so you get the full neck of the case sized , even bumping the shoulder back .0002 or so will not hurt at all. Make sure your cases will chamber easily into the rifle after sizing.
This is where you start.
Now work up a load that closely matches your factory velocity and group size, and go from there.
It may only take a few rounds, or it my take some time.
The 165 Speer is a good bullet and N140 is a decent powder for the .308
Cat
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You should have cleaned it again, after 30 rounds
I can only assume then that you did not shoot any factory ammo after shooting your hand loads?
Cat
What I did was shoot the factory ammo weeks ago, retorqued stock and scope, shot 10 shots today. Found the scope moving.
