When I first bought my Noveske/Vltor the pins that hold the lower and upper together(Don't know the proper names for them) seemed very tight, now after cleaning it a few times the rear pin slides in and out VERY easily. When ever I cleaned it I made sure there was no stress on the pins when I slid them in and out. Can I buy new ones or do I have a problem? Sorry for the newbie question, thanks.
Is it Normal for the pins that lock your lower and upper together to wear?
- Thread starter Brappp306
- Start date
It's normal. Not so much the steel pins are wearing out, it's the holes in the aluminum upper/lower that are opening up. If the play is bugging you, you have a few options to snug it up again.
1 - Accu-wedge
2 - Strips of electrical tape or a very thin film or JB Weld or Devcon along the top edge of the lower receiver.
3 - Have a gunsmith (or if you're good with tools) drill and tap a hole in the receiver directly below the take down pin and install a nylon tip hex screw to apply light tension to the upper
4 - Ignore it.
Option 2 with JB Weld/Devcon isn't a good option if you use multiple uppers as one upper might fit fine but if the second upper is very tight fitting, well good luck! Stick to the electrical tape for option 2.
Option 3 is the most permanent and long term option as you can adjust the tension on the screw when the holes open up some more later on.
Option 4 is the cheapest.
1 - Accu-wedge
2 - Strips of electrical tape or a very thin film or JB Weld or Devcon along the top edge of the lower receiver.
3 - Have a gunsmith (or if you're good with tools) drill and tap a hole in the receiver directly below the take down pin and install a nylon tip hex screw to apply light tension to the upper
4 - Ignore it.
Option 2 with JB Weld/Devcon isn't a good option if you use multiple uppers as one upper might fit fine but if the second upper is very tight fitting, well good luck! Stick to the electrical tape for option 2.
Option 3 is the most permanent and long term option as you can adjust the tension on the screw when the holes open up some more later on.
Option 4 is the cheapest.
A few of the sponsors should carry them. The shipping would probably cost more than the wedge. Try option 2 with a couple thin 1" long strips of electrical tape. Degrease the area with some isopropyl alcohol or acetone first. You might be pleasantly surprised. I've run about 800rnd through a rifle with the electrical tape and the tape hasn't budged.
All of the above will only hasten the wear that will occur when you have steel/aluminum interfaces. The 'slop' would only be an issue if you were regularly attempting to shoot tiny little holes at great distance....not 'making noise' on square ranges.
Reign in your OCD and direct it towards more fruitful endeavors.
I would suggest that you should worry more about if your dog is getting enough cheese.
Reign in your OCD and direct it towards more fruitful endeavors.
I would suggest that you should worry more about if your dog is getting enough cheese.
canucklehead
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Calgary, AB
Magwedge is a waste of money. Stuff a foam earplug under the rear takedown pin, or cut a chunk of eraser. Does the same thing... but does nothing other than make OCD go away.
Play between upper and lower receivers is almost always a complete non-issue. The upper may move relative to the lower, but the sights or optic are still fixed relative to the barrel.
If a .020" feeler gauge will not fit between the upper and lower pivot pin lugs with pivot and takedown pins installed, you do not have excessive play.
If a .020" feeler gauge will not fit between the upper and lower pivot pin lugs with pivot and takedown pins installed, you do not have excessive play.
It is not the play I am worried about... Actually very very little if not any at all, which is weird since the pin slides so easily. I am simply worried about the pin working its way out while I am shooting or moving around during courses, it feels that loose.
