is it possible to remove front sight from DA556 AR15?
- Thread starter Buzzy
- Start date
thunderhand
Regular
- Location
- Mississauga
i had to fully grind mine off... bent 2 punches trying to get the pin out.. watched half a dozen utube vids with multiple suggestions no go
tried heat , penetrating fluid...
tried heat , penetrating fluid...
Eternal_SiR
Member
- Location
- Surrey, BC
i had one hell of a time getting mine out.. bent 4 punches. Soaked it in penetrating oil and finally got it out. was one hell of a chore thats for sure.
Need a SHORT punch first to dislodge them, before you can remove them with a normal punch and some are tapered so if doesn't work 1 way, try the other way.
But if you remove it, THEN you need to replace it with a low profile gas block because how else will you be able to supply the action with GAS. Then you get into issue with lining up the gas port and if the barrel not designed for it. Have to do measurement, making shims etc.
But if you remove it, THEN you need to replace it with a low profile gas block because how else will you be able to supply the action with GAS. Then you get into issue with lining up the gas port and if the barrel not designed for it. Have to do measurement, making shims etc.
They are actually pretty easy to get off if you use the correct tools and technique.
a) find a lovely assistant
b) have your lovely assistant support receiver end of the upper and rest the FSB on a hard flat surface. For example, the jaws of a bench vise. Note- your lap or a carpeted floor are not flat/hard surfaces for the purposes of this job
c) take a steel punch that is noticeable larger than the size you need (3/8" or 5/16"?), and with a large-ish hammer, give the small ends of the taper pins a couple good whacks (metric whacks, not imperial ones). Repeat until you have moved the pins approximately flush with the FSB. This is only to get them freed up. Something like the following
d) take a SHORT punch that it slightly smaller than the diameter of the taper pins and knock them the rest of the way through. If your punch is too long, you will only succeed in bending it. (Refer to Trinimon's post #10 for an example)
e) have an adult beverage with your lovely assistant
It's that easy. I've done a few and it never takes me more than a couple minutes. No heat or lube required.
Most gas blocks have either a slot or a larger hole (regardless of port diameter the inside diameter of a gas tube is ~.110") so it's usually pretty easy to get the new block lined up/installed.
a) find a lovely assistant
b) have your lovely assistant support receiver end of the upper and rest the FSB on a hard flat surface. For example, the jaws of a bench vise. Note- your lap or a carpeted floor are not flat/hard surfaces for the purposes of this job
c) take a steel punch that is noticeable larger than the size you need (3/8" or 5/16"?), and with a large-ish hammer, give the small ends of the taper pins a couple good whacks (metric whacks, not imperial ones). Repeat until you have moved the pins approximately flush with the FSB. This is only to get them freed up. Something like the following
d) take a SHORT punch that it slightly smaller than the diameter of the taper pins and knock them the rest of the way through. If your punch is too long, you will only succeed in bending it. (Refer to Trinimon's post #10 for an example)
e) have an adult beverage with your lovely assistant
It's that easy. I've done a few and it never takes me more than a couple minutes. No heat or lube required.
Most gas blocks have either a slot or a larger hole (regardless of port diameter the inside diameter of a gas tube is ~.110") so it's usually pretty easy to get the new block lined up/installed.
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The pins are tapered so you need to know the orientation in which to knock them out. You need to use a taper punch and NOT a pin punch to get them started. Using a pin punch to drive the pins will just end up in broken punches.
If you remove the A2 gas block, you will need to replace it with another gas block. If you are going to replace the handguard with a floating one at the same time, you might as well save yourself some money and use a Dremel/grinder with cut-off wheel to remove the sight posts and bayonet lug, then clean it up some and spray it with some high-temp paint.
Pinned gas blocks are preferable to clamp-on ones. You know they're not likely to move/misalign during use.
If you remove the A2 gas block, you will need to replace it with another gas block. If you are going to replace the handguard with a floating one at the same time, you might as well save yourself some money and use a Dremel/grinder with cut-off wheel to remove the sight posts and bayonet lug, then clean it up some and spray it with some high-temp paint.
Pinned gas blocks are preferable to clamp-on ones. You know they're not likely to move/misalign during use.
I never really built ARs with lowpro gas blocks, I had one I rebarreled for a friend ( first time ever ) used a YHM low pro, did measuring and was left with a gap between the step down and where the gas block needed. The barrel was built with a FSB.
