Is my bolt okay?

So I wrote a long rambling post - then went down and pulled a similar gun apart to see what was possibly up with yours. The pin is tight in the locking lug but not in the bolt body - it being quite loose in it - so that the forces of firing are not on the pin, but on the large mating surfaces of the bolt and locking lug.

If that pin is truly sheared off, why can you not just punch the locking lug part down out of the bolt body?

I put a punch to my pin and drove it first one way, then tapped it back to centre - no hard hitting required.

I put a centre punch to the end of the pin to test hardness, and it was hard - good luck drilling that stuff.

Very hard material will break on an angle sometimes so the piece that you drive on may be sliding off the side of the second piece so the it wedges tighter and or will not go down the same rabbit hole together. It would be much nicer if you could make them go in opposite directions.

That is a nice little setup with the vise and punch - I'd use a much shorter punch - a starter punch is better at getting the shock to the shockee. A sharp rap on the vise will either break the vise or break the pin free.

I'll be interested in pics when you get it apart - save the pin pieces for us.

Thanks for talking.
 
Hey thanks for adding to the thread. The pin is sheared off inside the bolt lock on one side of it, but still it's normal length on the other side, so no way to push the bolt lock out the bottom unfortunately. The rest of the pins came out no problem when I stripped the bolt initially but this one is a whole other story. I'll keep updating until I give up haha.
 
Update:
Managed to drive the pin into the body of the bolt luck just enough to drive the whole lock right out the bottom of the bolt. It gouged a mm line on its way out that you can see in the pic. The pin is still very much stuck in the lock but atleast the bolt is stripped. I'm going to have it looked at by a gunsmith and see if it's even worth deburring and polishing or if it simply got too beat up throughout this process to be considered safe and usable.
Anyway, here's some pics of the bolt and both sides of the bolt lock. Should be somewhat easier to extract the pin from the lock on its own now and if the bolt is in fact okay, then I would rather source a new bolt lock and pin vs the entire assembly. I'm not going to spend more than $100 bucks on this gun and I haven't spent anything yet....

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That's encouraging to hear. The other good news is that the part number/sku for a replacement bolt-lock is the same amongst 500, 535, 835 & 590 with only a different letter designation for the specific gun which means it should be a hell of a lot easier to source one out if for whatever reason I'm unable to successfully extract the pin. But, holy #### has this project ever made me realize how difficult it actually would be to obtain replacement parts. The combination of US and CAN import/export laws make things potentially pricey and time consuming for us Canadians. I bet for me to source out and order a new forend/slide tube set up and new bolt assembly would instantly negate any remaining value in this gun.
Anyways...
 
That's encouraging to hear. The other good news is that the part number/sku for a replacement bolt-lock is the same amongst 500, 535, 835 & 590 with only a different letter designation for the specific gun which means it should be a hell of a lot easier to source one out if for whatever reason I'm unable to successfully extract the pin. But, holy #### has this project ever made me realize how difficult it actually would be to obtain replacement parts. The combination of US and CAN import/export laws make things potentially pricey and time consuming for us Canadians. I bet for me to source out and order a new forend/slide tube set up and new bolt assembly would instantly negate any remaining value in this gun.
Anyways...

I too have seen many a bargain gun turn into a nightmare with the cost of parts, duty and shipping. That is the case if the parts can even be had.

Darryl
 
Thanks for pics! Now make a short starter punch and take the pin out. Even a driver bit ground to make a little pin punch would work. Put it back in your vise like you had it and put some serious squeeze on it and give the vise a rap and it should move. When you put the new one in, it had better be tight or it might slide out enough to lock everything up.

Good to see things workin' out for ya.
 
Thanks. Gona have at her right now. This pin has given new meaning to the word tight. Normal tight is gona be such a breeze now haha. There's probably a dirty joke in there some where...
 
...And there she is.

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Next on the agenda is to debur and smoothen up the collateral damage. And then gunsmith approval I think, or maybe have it looked at before I attempt to clean up the bolt assembly so it's history is in plain view...

What do you say?
If all goes well and there aren't anymore snags to deal with then I should have a shooter ready soon enough. Maybe I'll think about a refinish/paint/kote type dealie on the barrel and receiver, I sure dig the look of the marine-use shotguns that come in the water tight cans.
*End of excited rambling*
I'll finish my self-congratulatory beverage now.
 
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