On a recent thread about the most popular milsurps the Swedich M96 was hardly mentioned. Why is this and does this make it a lesser costing milsurp? I thought it was one of the best. What would an all matching rifle with nice wood and good blueing be worth compared to let say a M98?
Is the M 96 popular?
- Thread starter selig
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K98k's are in the stupid money bracket now because of the pupularity of WW2 arms collecting and the scarcity of decent examples (I say this while owning a few collectible K98ks - trust me, it's true). M96's are, frankly, common as dirt right now by comparisson. I own more than one myself and in theory they are often better guns than K98k's, certainly on average they are more accurate. Also easy to find in nice condition.
This is good if you are a buyer and appreciate it for the finely made rifle it is, but bad if you are a seller looking to pay some bills
This is good if you are a buyer and appreciate it for the finely made rifle it is, but bad if you are a seller looking to pay some bills
It wasn't used in battle, except for a few in finish hands, so it sufferers in popularity. Plus a m96 is a heavy rifle. Now as a shooting rifle its great. my M96 would shoot circles around most of the other milsurp rifles I own. 6.5x55 is a lovely cartridge, easy to get your hands on as well. a matching example with a great bore should set you back 350-400 depending on who has it, and there are some with some really wonderful wood on them if you look around
FWIW, for practical shooting of these rifles over a wide range of distances, I would look for either an M96 version with the S-M Sikte style rear sights and matching taller front sight blade that adjusts down to 100m, or look for a 1940's era Husqvarna M38 with the T-marked (Torped) rear sight which also goes down to 100m. Sights graduated only down to 300m are not as useful.
YMMV.
YMMV.
I got mine for $49.99 from SIR mail order a few years ago and it is the sweetest shooting rifle I have.
My daughter was shooting it at the range at 12.
I don't personally give a rat's ass for "WWII collectability" so that doesn't enter into the equation for me.
My daughter was shooting it at the range at 12.
I don't personally give a rat's ass for "WWII collectability" so that doesn't enter into the equation for me.
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- Tucson, Arizona
Swedes is boring. Dey yust shoot tiny little groups all day.
"That must have been QUITE a "few" years ago ."
Yes, I just checked. It was 1983. I still have the catalogue.
The M38 was $59.99 with a straight bolt, $69.99 with a bent bolt.
Got an MN 91 for $29.99 too.
The first box of ammo I bought for it (Norma hunting cartridges) cost $35.00.
Yes, I just checked. It was 1983. I still have the catalogue.
The M38 was $59.99 with a straight bolt, $69.99 with a bent bolt.
Got an MN 91 for $29.99 too.
The first box of ammo I bought for it (Norma hunting cartridges) cost $35.00.
I've noticed a few things I'm my time collecting. I don't know much about mausers so this is just an outsiders view of the Mauser collecting world. There's dozens of different mausers available, 2 can look and be exactly the same but one will be a great shooter but doesn't have German heritage so therefore it will be say $300. The second is German, beat to crap and is worth $700-$1000.
Not a shot at Mauser collectors but I guess I'm a shooter first and collector second so I always gravitate to guns that will be tack drivers first and priceless military collectables second! I love my only Mauser a 1940 K.Kale Turk Mauser in 8x57. It's got the heavy barrel the Turks often put on their mausers and therefore IMHO is a superior shooter on the range compared to non Turk guns. But again I'm a shooter first so what I want in a gun and what others want is completely different.
That being said it's the same with Enfields, a nice POF Enfield can be had for as little as $350 and a gun like say my regulated buy AG Parker longbranch could bring close to $1000 on the right day.
Not a shot at Mauser collectors but I guess I'm a shooter first and collector second so I always gravitate to guns that will be tack drivers first and priceless military collectables second! I love my only Mauser a 1940 K.Kale Turk Mauser in 8x57. It's got the heavy barrel the Turks often put on their mausers and therefore IMHO is a superior shooter on the range compared to non Turk guns. But again I'm a shooter first so what I want in a gun and what others want is completely different.
That being said it's the same with Enfields, a nice POF Enfield can be had for as little as $350 and a gun like say my regulated buy AG Parker longbranch could bring close to $1000 on the right day.
Swedish rifles are nice. Shoot well, very well made.
But if you want a tack driver you'd be best to buy something new.
Since these rifles have little value for WW1/2 collectors they are in that purgatory kind of area. Not really a milsurp with history and war experience behind it, but still old.
I had a Swede 38 for many years, and it gave me an appreciation of the 6.5 caliber and the Mauser action. I do love 6.5...mmmm. It's my long range precision caliber in 6.5x284. A rocket! But now I own an WW2 Arisaka and a WW1 Carcano so I have my 6.5 and my historical battle rifle together. I have Mausers too, but German with eagles and history and oh me oh my.
But if you want a tack driver you'd be best to buy something new.
Since these rifles have little value for WW1/2 collectors they are in that purgatory kind of area. Not really a milsurp with history and war experience behind it, but still old.
I had a Swede 38 for many years, and it gave me an appreciation of the 6.5 caliber and the Mauser action. I do love 6.5...mmmm. It's my long range precision caliber in 6.5x284. A rocket! But now I own an WW2 Arisaka and a WW1 Carcano so I have my 6.5 and my historical battle rifle together. I have Mausers too, but German with eagles and history and oh me oh my.
I'm not sure if that statement is true. I'm still a newer shooter although I shoot at least once a week. With proper bedding, a good bore and the right handloads I've made most of my milsurps shoot sub 1" groups at 100 yards as long as I do my part. My no1 mk3 (1916) with a full length barrel started as a 3moa gun. I floated the barrel as the wood was putting pressure on the left side and found a good load, that gun will do 1" on most days.
My Ross mkIII* (1915) shooting cast will do around 3/4" again if I do my part.
2 evenings ago I mounted my new PH5C sight to my Longbranch (1943) that has an AG Parker barrel. I shot 2-4 round groups at 75-80 yards. Put 2 shots into 2 ragged holes that were almost touching. The second group I put 3 into a ragged hole and had one flyer which was my fault!!
Now that being said, my Turk Mauser has a rough bore and will only do 2.5" groups at the absolute best. Not much I can do about that gun but it was bought cheap and is still a fun shooter. May try lapping the barrel one day.
Point being that if you are willing to spend the time, most milsurp guns WILL will be tack drivers as long as you do your part.
Maybe it's just luck but I seem to be having good luck with milsurps.
As for Swedish mausers I also agree that they are a fine rifle!!
I don't mind the SWEDE RIFLES being the more reasonable priced rifles. I have a small collection of them, top of the list is a complete sniper with correct scope etc, it will shoot 3/4" at 100Ms. COLLECTERS (in general) of whatever I think are all a bit off kilter, they will pay a lot for something that then sits in a vault or isolated room somewhere, but then again I see a new swede listed that i have to check out.
Take care & enjoy. Bill
Take care & enjoy. Bill
JOHN SUKEY had it right on the first page.
There is nothing wrong with the Swedish 1896 Mauser rifle. In fact, they are likely the biggest Milsurp SECRET out there, dollar for dollar.
The 6.5x55 is one of the most highly-developed target and hunting cartridges in the world. The round itself is inherently accurate, then the Swedes (pig-headed Vikings, the lot of them!) spent more than a CENTURY tuning it for even-better accuracy. The final result was the CG-63, a rifle which you can NOT afford to ignore if you are trying to shoot against one. They are VERY hard to beat.
Likewise hard to beat are those crappy old Danish rifles built on WW2 Mauser actions and fitted with 6.5mm Schults & Larsen barrels. Feed them with the right loads and thy CAN hit that 1100-yard target with the first round...... and do it again in the next relay. Ask anyone who was at the Shilo Sniper Matches a few years ago. They saw it, 2 years running.
There is nothing wrong with the Swedish 1896 Mauser rifle. In fact, they are likely the biggest Milsurp SECRET out there, dollar for dollar.
The 6.5x55 is one of the most highly-developed target and hunting cartridges in the world. The round itself is inherently accurate, then the Swedes (pig-headed Vikings, the lot of them!) spent more than a CENTURY tuning it for even-better accuracy. The final result was the CG-63, a rifle which you can NOT afford to ignore if you are trying to shoot against one. They are VERY hard to beat.
Likewise hard to beat are those crappy old Danish rifles built on WW2 Mauser actions and fitted with 6.5mm Schults & Larsen barrels. Feed them with the right loads and thy CAN hit that 1100-yard target with the first round...... and do it again in the next relay. Ask anyone who was at the Shilo Sniper Matches a few years ago. They saw it, 2 years running.
