Is there a downside to a 20MOA rail at shorter distances

the only downside I ran into (with 20moa rail on the 10/22 receiver) was - if you want to run flip up iron sights (front at the very front, rear at the very rear or the receiver - max stretch for the platform), it's hard to get them zeroed at 25yds, other than that, same difference,,,
 
I wanted to dual purpose my scope (Falcon X50T) between my air rifle and a Win 308 f-class project gun I was entertaining for the last summer season.
I left the picatinny rail on both guns on zero MOA, and I mounted a single piece 20 MOA ring on the scope. I am talking high 1.3" rings
Between my PCP airgun rifle zeroed at 100 Meters and the W308 centerfire zeroed at 200 M I have 9 clicks !!!
Between the 200 M and 300 M on centerfire I have 19 clicks.

20 MOA and high rings will give you a nice wide range of distances. Low rings is opposite...
 
Butcherbill said:
As long as your scope has the adjustment range you won’t notice any difference, have one on a 700 that’s zeroed at 100m. Have plenty of adjustment left.
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Ya same here, my scope has sufficient adjustment to handle it and I have a 50moa rail on a .22 and I use it shooting from 25y to 340y with no problem.

It is pretty common in rimfire PRS to have a 30moa - 50moa rail and still frequently shoot 1/4 targets at only 25y.
 
FatCatsDad said:
I can get a 20 MOA rail for $20 off a friend or pay $60 -$100 with taxes and shipping for a new 0 MOA rail.
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As others have suggested/stated, it depends on your scope but assuming sufficient adjustment, one should be able to shoot at shorter distances without issue.

At $20 for a rail off of a friend, it's kind of a no brainer to buy and just try. If for some reason it didn't work out, you have minimal cost for a spare and you can buy whatever rail you want including an adjustable MOA one ($$$).
 
I would venture to guess that in the vast majority of cases you won't find yourself unable to zero the scope at 100 yards with a 20 moa rail. But, given variabilities between guns, it could happen if you start with a gun that happens to shoot high owing to the barrel. It would require a barrel with an odd bore, or a barrel not machined right to end up with that.
 
FatCatsDad said:
Is there a any problem's to be aware of if choosing a 20 MOA rail and only shooting at 300 yards and under ?
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In most cases you should have no issues. With the scope I have on my 455 in an Oryx Chassis, I verified how much travel I had, and was able to go 40 MOA and still zero the rifle at 20 yards. I have about 60 MOA up adjustment left, so lots of room to dial up, maybe even well past 300 yards.
 
Meroh said:
In most cases you should have no issues. With the scope I have on my 455 in an Oryx Chassis, I verified how much travel I had, and was able to go 40 MOA and still zero the rifle at 20 yards. I have about 60 MOA up adjustment left, so lots of room to dial up, maybe even well past 300 yards.
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You should get 300yds with 50-52 moa depending on ammo and speed. The remaining will get eaten pretty quickly past 300yds with the rainbow like trajectory, but its fun and teaches reading the wind.
 
I have a Remington 700 with a 20 MOA rail that I can't quite get zeroed at 100 yards. It shoots about 1.5" high with the scope bottomed out. I can live with it, but YMMV, depending on the scope/rifle and what you want to do with it.
 
diemaco said:
I have a Remington 700 with a 20 MOA rail that I can't quite get zeroed at 100 yards. It shoots about 1.5" high with the scope bottomed out. I can live with it, but YMMV, depending on the scope/rifle and what you want to do with it.
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If you look up articles here and other forums you'll see guntech is right. Alternately, you can replace the scope with one that has more Vertical adjustment or get a Burris XTR ring-set with various inserts to change the MOA. Or just remove the rail :rolleyes:
 
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