Is there such a thing as too much light ??

I ran the x300 ultra on course last weekend. Indoor range and outdoor. I found that it worked well in both circumstances. However it really stands out at distance. Up close, 3-5 meters, 120 to 500 really didn't matter for target identifying. Again, the 500 lights up more and has better spread. All lighting is fairly equal at close distance. I can't speak for use for distraction or blinding as I didn't do that.

At 20-35 meters though you really see a step up between the 120's, 2-300's, and the 500.

I've played with my tlr-3 and 300 ultra in my house and its pretty even keeled given the parameters of a room or hallway.
 
I think it's surprising how non-problematic the X300u is inside.

It's definitely on the strong side but it's not nearly the "you'll fry your own retinas off the first beige wall you encounter" experience that a lot of internet people warned me it would be.

That said, and particularly on a handgun, if I spotted an X300 standard on "the cool kids have moved on" discount, I'd grab it in a second.
 
More light is not always the best answer
ultimatemachinegun.jpg
 
I'm with misanthropist on this. The x300 switch features are superior to mostbothervswitches on the market too.

Using the corona to search and ID also avoids many of the issues with blinding splash. Until I tried one, I relied on research but, experience negates research.

I've already contacted Inforce to discuss experience.
 
I concur. I did enjoy my tlr 3 switch as it could either engage one way or toggle intermittently the other way.

But once I mounted the 300 ultra and realized that it activates in either way you throw the switch and is intermittent simply by pushing on the switch (if that makes any sense) I was sold.

The price is whole heartedly ridiculous. But when you start comparing to other options, especially carbine specific lights, it seems pretty reasonable. I have two now and don't regret the purchases.

Ill be selling off my tlr-3 though unless I decide to mount another light on another rifle.
 
I have an Surefire X300U on an SBR and a M620V on 14.5 middy. I think if you're anywheres from 200-500, depending on the pattern of the beam, you are in the sweet spot. When Surefire started producing 500 lumen bulbs for it's hand held and weapon lights, there was a lot of people thinking it would be too much light. I find with the X300U and a P2X Fury, the 500 lumen hot spot is wide enough that it's a non issue inside, and gives you a great cast outside out to 100 Meters. I have an M3LT-S that's 800 Lumens with a beam tightener, and the hot spot is so tight, and the lumens so high that it causes problems with back splash, and you can really get blinded by it. But outside it goes forever.


The M620V being 160 lumens is good for indoors, but outside the light doesn't go far. The Vampire heads leave a lot to be desired, but having IR and White light on the same head is convienent.
 
For indoor use I prefer less light in order to avoid splashback in our light coloured interior walled home so I keep mostly 60 lumen lights on my house guns: an old Insight M3 on my G17, a Surefire forend on my HP9-1, a TLR-1 on my Marlin 1895GS and a stock Surefire 6P in a Vector mount on my CQA carbine.
 
Actual operators and SHTF I would assume. Plus you might need a light to get to where you want to hunt at dawn or dusk. Maybe you just like running around at night with a flashlight lol.

Jerek said:
i always thought it was illegal to shoot at night, so why the need for lights? or am i missing something here?
Click to expand...
 
Jerek said:
i always thought it was illegal to shoot at night, so why the need for lights? or am i missing something here?
Click to expand...

It's not illegal to defend yourself, your family or your home though, and most violent encounters occur after dark.

Personally I'm not shooting anyone unless I'm absolutely 100% convinced I have no other reasonable option, and part of the process of determining whether that is the case is going to be getting a good look at anything I might potentially have to shoot.
 
Thanks for all the great responses.
I have been digging into the light subject over the last few days. It would seem based on ARFcom discussions that SF will be releasing many more light modules in the 200-500 range for Scout & 9xx series :) :) .
The P2X fury seems to be a great low-cost light that although is not considered a weapon light does well due to the ruggedness of the LED assemblies, basically replaces the 6P & G2 (with LED modules) type setups but @ 500 lumens.

With regards to the push button vs tape switch issues, I generally prefer the push button as I believe less parts = more ruggedness. I find myself stuck when using the x300u (or any weapon light) on a USC/UMP gun because the charging handle is on the front left therefore I need to mount the light on the right side, forcing me to use a tape switch. The XT07 switch for the xSeries looks very nice, do you guys running these on courses and real life have issues with tape switch or are seen as pretty reliable if setup correctly ??
 
I tend to agree with you on tape switches vs push buttons, but you know if you need to run a tape switch to make your setup work, I think it's more important to set your gun up in a way that doesn't compromise your grip and gun handling than it is to stick to the most rugged possible light switch.

I think the SF tape switch is totally up to snuff reliability wise and my concerns would instead be as follows:

1) can the cord be routed in such a way that it DEFINITELY will not snag on anything and get yanked off?

2) can the switch be positioned in such a way that it requires a conscious movement to trigger it?

Item 1 is pretty obvious...Item 2 is because I have seen people with tape switches mounted on VFGs etc that just turn on with increased grip pressure.

Well, IMO, a light that comes on anytime you gorilla-grip your gun is a bad move...if I ever need my gun to save my life, in the dark, I can pretty much guarantee you that I will be crushing the FK out of the grips. So I want the tape switch to be accessible by thumb or whatever, without seriously compromising my grip, but in a place that does require SOME conscious movement to flash it up.

That's my take on tape switches and placement.
 
I will be mounting it horizontally on a rail, the XT07 has a constant on and a momentary pad button (and a lock out switch), is it generally preferred to operate with the thumb or forefingers ??
XT07_xlarge_24556.png
 
I can only speak for myself...I like to use my thumb. I had a past setup that used my index finger and I didn't like it very much. OTOH, Kyle Defoor runs (or ran at one time) his guns with index finger lighting and he doesn't have to justify anything to me. I believe he is unusual on that, though. Most guys in his league that I have seen are using thumb activation. I suspect this has more to do with ambidextrous access than anything else, but there is the potential safety issue of the sympathetic squeeze...

I don't personally like anything set to use "grip" as the on-button because that's what makes my trigger go. I feel that reducing the chance of sympathetic flexing of the index finger under stress is a good thing.

I think - and this is just me offering a guess here - but I think I'm less likely to get a sympathetic squeeze out of my trigger finger if my light button is under my thumb than under my fingers.


Again, just a belief on my part. No data to prove it one way or the other, but I am in to the precaution side of things when possible.

I guess I'd also say that I feel I am better able to maintain a solid grip while performing tasks with my thumb than with fingers, just as a result of the tendency to grip equally with all your fingers. But the other side of your grip is your palm, not your thumb, so your thumb can be moved pretty independently without disrupting your grip.

That's my take on it, anyway.
 
Following on the light and grip placement: Now bear in mind I have only have experience with airsoft (non-lethal force-on-force training if you prefer) but I use a replica of a HK416D10.5 (10.5" barrel) with a cheap 1" flashlight in a cheap scope ring on the 3 o'clock rail that I use similar a gas pedal (I'm a lefty). The flashlight has a momentary rear button, but I can twist the rear cap to be constant on. So I use my index, middle fingers, and pinky wrapped around my AFG2 (with the added finger shelf) to squeeze forward the web of my hand to activate the light. Does it work? Not 100% sure, I haven't been to another night game since I got the light mounted, but it's become my standard. By the way I naturally use a shooting grip similar to Chris Costa (in Art of the Tactical Carbine Vol.1).
 
misanthropist said:
I can only speak for myself...I like to use my thumb. I had a past setup that used my index finger and I didn't like it very much........

That's my take on it, anyway.
Click to expand...

Thanks, it does seem very varied in the setup. Many gun setup pics I found on ARFcom (I mention them because they put lots of stuff up) actually are putting the tape switch flat on the top rail, which I believe has to do with the 'Costa' grip (for lack of a better term). It also makes sense to keep a standard OP, if I were using a clicker it would be activated with the thumb, so using the thumb on the tape makes sense.

Never thought about the relationship between right & left hand muscle movement, but it is a very valid point and definitely something to consider.

...BTW - surefire LED modules are old school compared to what these flashlight geeks build
Click to expand...
I am looking forward to what SF will be bringing to the market in 2013, many upgrades to the lamp modules.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom