Is this a smart beginner move?

[hfx123]

So my beginner medium/long range desires had me leaning towards an Rpr in 6.5. A trip to my LGs today has me thinking differently. For slightly more say 2k I could get a r700 in 6.5 24in threaded in a cadex field comp fixed adjustable stock. To me seems better idea. Am I missing anything? Price of mags? Glass and bipod budget will remain the same at 2k for both items. Wanted under 4k buy once have forever type gun that maybe gets rebarreled later. Want to do some courses and have fun with it. Advice?


The barreled action is also available alone before they load it into a chassis so I ciuld get it and keep my options open.. Budget and ski season makes this a next spring summer gun

 

[FirearmsEnthusiast]

It would be helpful to know more about your intended application - you mentioned medium-long ranges - what does that mean to you? 200-400 yards, 600-1000 yards, more? Also, are you going to shoot at a club from a bench, do more PRS-style move-and-shoot at non-known distances? Any dual use for hunting, etc?

Once the application is clarified, I would consider the cartridge next - lots of good 6 or 6.5 mm choices out there, but if you wanted to shoot certain competitions, you may be limited to .223 or .308.

Do you handload (if not, better add some budget $$$ for either a handloading set-up or ammo). Good quality ammo is part of the "shooter-rifle-optics-ammo" system. Some calibers have poor factory ammo availability or are expensive to buy for.

Let us know more and I'm sure there will be some awesome ideas in this forum (real wealth of knowledge at CGN!)

 

[hfx123]

It would be helpful to know more about your intended application - you mentioned medium-long ranges - what does that mean to you? 200-400 yards, 600-1000 yards, more? Also, are you going to shoot at a club from a bench, do more PRS-style move-and-shoot at non-known distances? Any dual use for hunting, etc?

Once the application is clarified, I would consider the cartridge next - lots of good 6 or 6.5 mm choices out there, but if you wanted to shoot certain competitions, you may be limited to .223 or .308.

Do you handload (if not, better add some budget $$$ for either a handloading set-up or ammo). Good quality ammo is part of the "shooter-rifle-optics-ammo" system. Some calibers have poor factory ammo availability or are expensive to buy for.

Let us know more and I'm sure there will be some awesome ideas in this forum (real wealth of knowledge at CGN!)

Thanks for message. Not currently setup to reload but I may in future. Not competing so far and probably won't. Will be bench shooting at club and I'm going to do a couple long range precision courses for fun.

200-400 most of the year up to 1k if my skill gets there during courses. Cost per round for match grade i see it being similar for 308 VS 6.5. The opportunity to shoot 6.5 to its true capability may arise a couple times per year for me so 308 may fit the bill. Though I'd like to have to option with the 6.5 if cost is slightly more no big deal

No hunting planned.i have other things I can hunt with. This is going to be an oh Jesus this is heavy get it to the bench tack driver if I have my way with it lol.

Thanks again

 

[adamg]

So my beginner medium/long range desires had me leaning towards an Rpr in 6.5. A trip to my LGs today has me thinking differently. For slightly more say 2k I could get a r700 in 6.5 24in threaded in a cadex field comp fixed adjustable stock. To me seems better idea. Am I missing anything? Price of mags? Glass and bipod budget will remain the same at 2k for both items. Wanted under 4k buy once have forever type gun that maybe gets rebarreled later. Want to do some courses and have fun with it. Advice?


The barreled action is also available alone before they load it into a chassis so I ciuld get it and keep my options open.. Budget and ski season makes this a next spring summer gun

I'm thinking a RPR has a better trigger than a 700. And a 6.5 RPR Enhanced (Gen2) is about $1650 at Tenda last I checked.

Another value add on the RPR is that it comes with two 10-round mags. At least my 223 version did. My limited knowledge is that buying two 10round mags for a 700 is going to be like $90 X 2. (please research numbers, I'm not an expert in this)

 

[FirearmsEnthusiast]

Great!

Lots of excellent choices for a 200-400 yard cartridge. .223 can be affected by wind, particularly with lighter bullets. Lots of other alternatives, including .243, .260, .308, 6.5, etc. .308 at 1000 is doable, but other cartridges may do better at these ranges.

I don't shoot anything but handloads these days, and don't own a 6.5 Creedmoor, so will need others to chime in on the relative costs of good factory-loaded ammo, but I suspect that .308 is way cheaper and more abundant than 6.5 in terms of ammo.

You may want to investigate a good basic single-stage press for handloading - the savings and the difference in ammo quality really favour handloads.

Hopefully others will be along soon to comment...

 

[hfx123]

Thanks guys from my research mags shouldn't be much more expensive. I've heard reviews from net and some local shops that the Rpr stock sucks and will be a replace and also that there is some significant flex in the handguard with bipod on. I had the two side by side and you can see how much more material the cadex has in it. My line of reasoning was that for a little bit extra get everything right rather than save a few hundred and be replacing things. As for ammo 308 is more available but I think good 308 and good 6.5 will run you about the same unless you want to practice with junk
. With this calibre I probably would reload eventually even if it was for the one calibre. Same for 308 probably.

You are probably right on the trigger which on the 700 would be into a couple hundred to upgrade. Just comes with x mark I think it's called.

 

[J996]

Out of those two options I would buy the RPR and spend the extra 2 grand on glass. High quality glass with turrets that track perfectly is of higher importance to me than the rifle choice.

 

[hfx123]

Out of those two options I would buy the RPR and spend the extra 2 grand on glass. High quality glass with turrets that track perfectly is of higher importance to me than the rifle choice.

I can understand that.thanks for msg

 

[rugbydave]

Out of those two options I would buy the RPR and spend the extra 2 grand on glass. High quality glass with turrets that track perfectly is of higher importance to me than the rifle choice.

By my understanding there is no "extra 2 grand"? He's planning on spending about 2G on the rifle and another 2G on the scope/rings. For $2000 for a scope setup, you can get something totally usable. Also depends on the features you want (FFP vs SFP, etc).

For the rifle, I'd say get a Rem 700 barreled action, drop it in the chassis or stock of your choice and either replace the trigger or have it tuned by Dennis Sorensen. As for 6.5 Creed vs .308, if you're not reloading, match ammo will cost about the same and you can get 6.5 everywhere now. Ballistically the 6.5 is far superior but you won't notice inside 400 yards. Less recoil with the 6.5 if that matters to you. Honestly, I'd just get the 6.5, you can push a .308 out to 1000 yards and beyond (and I do regularly) but the 6.5 will get you there easier.

 

[hfx123]

By my understanding there is no "extra 2 grand"? He's planning on spending about 2G on the rifle and another 2G on the scope/rings. For $2000 for a scope setup, you can get something totally usable. Also depends on the features you want (FFP vs SFP, etc).

For the rifle, I'd say get a Rem 700 barreled action, drop it in the chassis or stock of your choice and either replace the trigger or have it tuned by Dennis Sorensen. As for 6.5 Creed vs .308, if you're not reloading, match ammo will cost about the same and you can get 6.5 everywhere now. Ballistically the 6.5 is far superior but you won't notice inside 400 yards. Less recoil with the 6.5 if that matters to you. Honestly, I'd just get the 6.5, you can push a .308 out to 1000 yards and beyond (and I do regularly) but the 6.5 will get you there easier.

Thanks for reply.ill be going with ffp scope mil/Mil and yeah on ammo I'd rather buy once and not wonder what the 6.5 could do. If in the end match grade runs about the same I'd rather have the capability in it if I want it or need it. I can get the 700barreled action in 6.5 for around 700 this week and then make a decision on a chassis. I want to give it some thought as I piece it together bc it won't hit the range until spring and yeah you are right 4k total is budget

 

[BadAsMo]

I'm thinking a RPR has a better trigger than a 700.
QUOTE]

I would argue with anyone about this...

I have 2 RPRs, not that I'm a huge fan of the rifle... curiousity mainly...

Anyway, both of mine have trigger issues, so I assume its a common problem.

The blade that has to be depressed to get to the trigger is where the problem lies.

In theory, that blade should require very little pressure to get it to move before your finger contacts the real trigger... Well both of mine require a wide range of pressure just to get the blade to move.

I measured it and it takes at least 3 ounces, but can take up to one full pound of pressure before the blade moves even slightly.... yes one full pound.

Now some of you are probably thinking I should clean the trigger... well been there done that... does not help... it's just the angle the blade contacts a pin should be more of a 90 degrees to the pivot but seems more like 10 and it wedges itself in there.

Anyway when its sticky it makes me feel like I need to be extra careful or I'll slap the trigger by accident when I'm really just trying to get the creep out of it.

I switched one rifle to the Timney trigger and it does not have such issues... but that's another $400.

I like where the OP is headed to a Remmy in a Cadex, but I'd lean toward a Tikka Varmint or Tactical in the Cadex chassis myself... change to a metal bolt shroud and its a fine action and aint nuthin wrong with a Tikka trigger that I'm aware of.

If you do get the RPR, you better polish the snot out of the slot on the left side of the bolt to smooth that out. And don't forget to grease the bolt body like crazy. Then it will be reasonably smooth.

 

[hfx123]

I'm thinking a RPR has a better trigger than a 700.
QUOTE]

I would argue with anyone about this...

I have 2 RPRs, not that I'm a huge fan of the rifle... curiousity mainly...

Anyway, both of mine have trigger issues, so I assume its a common problem.

The blade that has to be depressed to get to the trigger is where the problem lies.

In theory, that blade should require very little pressure to get it to move before your finger contacts the real trigger... Well both of mine require a wide range of pressure just to get the blade to move.

I measured it and it takes at least 3 ounces, but can take up to one full pound of pressure before the blade moves even slightly.... yes one full pound.

Now some of you are probably thinking I should clean the trigger... well been there done that... does not help... it's just the angle the blade contacts a pin should be more of a 90 degrees to the pivot but seems more like 10 and it wedges itself in there.

Anyway when its sticky it makes me feel like I need to be extra careful or I'll slap the trigger by accident when I'm really just trying to get the creep out of it.

I switched one rifle to the Timney trigger and it does not have such issues... but that's another $400.

I like where the OP is headed to a Remmy in a Cadex, but I'd lean toward a Tikka Varmint or Tactical in the Cadex chassis myself... change to a metal bolt shroud and its a fine action and aint nuthin wrong with a Tikka trigger that I'm aware of.

If you do get the RPR, you better polish the snot out of the slot on the left side of the bolt to smooth that out. And don't forget to grease the bolt body like crazy. Then it will be reasonably smooth.

I know what you are saying. I dont get how actions can feel so different. Tikka is like Friggin butter and I don't know why other brands don't strive for that buttery smooth feel. I've never owned a 700 but the one I fondled In the cadex was not pretty clunky. Jury is still out.... Decisions....saw the Tikka Tac a1 in 6.5 available legal also today in chassis but bumps rifle budget to 2500

 

[Mystic Precision]

So my beginner medium/long range desires had me leaning towards an Rpr in 6.5. A trip to my LGs today has me thinking differently. For slightly more say 2k I could get a r700 in 6.5 24in threaded in a cadex field comp fixed adjustable stock. To me seems better idea. Am I missing anything? Price of mags? Glass and bipod budget will remain the same at 2k for both items. Wanted under 4k buy once have forever type gun that maybe gets rebarreled later. Want to do some courses and have fun with it. Advice?


The barreled action is also available alone before they load it into a chassis so I ciuld get it and keep my options open.. Budget and ski season makes this a next spring summer gun

While you are developing a game plan, try and get behind as many different stocks and chassis to see what feels and fits YOU. Although I can offer various chassis options, my personal tastes bring me to more old school stocks. This is not a right or wrong thing... it's a, "yeah, this fits me" thing.

Once you figure out what the "clothing" should be, the barreled action is a simple decision based on your personal tastes and preferences. There are so many options that all work so this is more an eeenie meenie thing then barreled action A is way better then barreled action B.

If there are any competition now or in the future, that can help narrow down options either because they restrict what you can use or there are better 'mousetraps'.

Unfortunately, current manf factory rifles are hit and miss wrt to performance. Barrels are all over the map with some working great and some stinking. For the budget you are suggesting, I would just start with a donor, put on a match barrel and furniture to suit. Start from the beginning with something that is going to do what you want instead of testing, fixing and replacing as needed. .



My Rem 783 with a McGowen prefit.. Boyds pro varmint stock modified for the CDI DBM. Tuned factory trigger, replace bolt knob and firing pin spring. Otherwise, stock action. The rifle is under your $2k budget



Sporting a CarbonSix prefit... this one over your budget but not by much.



How well can they shoot? here is a test group at 250yds in light gusty winds with the CS barrel, Berger 140gr VLDs... only have a 16X scope on so the aiming error is larger then when using my 32X target scopes. Both barrels have shown the capacity to shoot in the 1/4 to 1/3 min range at 250 to 280yds.

sub MOA out to 1450yds....

If you want to shoot LR, barrels matter. For what it costs to develop a load to find out the barrel is subpar THEN fix it... may as well start with a good barrel and spend less time testing and more time having fun going LR.

Same with optics. No doubt that the more you spend (to a point), the better the product. In the $2k budget, there are a number of really nice products with more coming out each quarter. Do you need to spend that much? If you want to put more funds towards reloading and actually using the rifle, there are some great options sub $1k that have features and function to do the job.

YMMV.

Jerry

 

[Spo0nFED]

@mystic what calibre is that rifle in? I may have missed it in your post. Very good info, thank you.

 

[Alpheus]

Wanted under 4k buy once have forever type gun that maybe gets rebarreled later. Want to do some courses and have fun with it. Advice?
The barreled action is also available alone before they load it into a chassis so I ciuld get it and keep my options open.. Budget and ski season makes this a next spring summer gun

Thanks for message. Not currently setup to reload but I may in future. Not competing so far and probably won't. Will be bench shooting at club and I'm going to do a couple long range precision courses for fun.

I would go with something that has significant aftermarket support, like the Remington 700 and to a lesser degree Tikka/Savage. Since you are a confessed beginner, it may take you a couple of evolutions of your rifle until you find something you really like. A highly customizable action will make this very easy. While there are products out for the RPR, you are limited by the nature of the design.

Reloading will get you the most benefit regardless of the rifle you get. Consider going with a slightly cheaper rifle (not glass, don't skimp there!) and picking up reloading. Starting with a couple of boxes of factory ammo is an easy way to start and leaves you with ready to use brass.

 

[Mystic Precision]

@mystic what calibre is that rifle in? I may have missed it in your post. Very good info, thank you.

6.5 Creedmoor. Really liking this chambering.

Jerry

 

[MartyK2500]

If you exclude scope and mount, this was an exactly 1600$ budget rifle, including 20 MOA rail, muzzle brake, magazine, bipod, chassis, barreled action.
It's called savage 10TR and SFRC sells them cheap, 24'' 5R 1:10 twist rifling.
Which would leave you 2400$ for optics.
Yes .308, and not 6.5.
Myself am also shooting rifle for the first time this year, and really appreciate .308 for learning.

EDIT : Forgot to mention it involves selling factory rail, stock, and factory 10 round magazine.
Also had found a NIB harris swivel 6-9, and NIB ATRS 20 moa rail on the EE, which contributes to the savings

 

[Mystic Precision]

MartyK2500, that is a great looking rig. Nothing wrong with the 308 at all.

Jerry

 

[Tomochan]

Actions: I usually recommend a R700 based shooting platform - partly (actually, mostly) personal preference but availability of aftermarket stuff is also a factor which, incidentally, pretty much also now applies to Savage ( it is a bit of a Ford - Chevy discussion ).


Calibre: If cheapness per round is an issue a .223 is a great option otherwise consider .308. If you hand load then these days I say choose a 6 or a 6.5 and, now 6.5 CM has lots of factory offerings as well. I have 6CM 6XC .243 6.5-47L and 6.5CM so obviously I really do put my money where my mouth is on caliber choice !

Stock/Chassis: While I've used MDT, CADEX and AICS chassis (personally like AICS the best) I prefer traditional stocks and while McMillan A5 and Manners T4 are my faves you simply cannot go wrong with the new Greyboe stocks - simply outstanding value for money.

Glass: Buy the best you can afford - period. SFP/FFP Mils or MOA - you decide based upon intended applications but BUY THE BEST YOU CAN !

 

[MartyK2500]

MartyK2500, that is a great looking rig. Nothing wrong with the 308 at all.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry!
Next year you’ll probably sell me a great looking match barrel