I have a .22lr Colt Diamondback. It really isn't that accurate when compared to my other revolvers especially when compared to my friend's 617 or my semi auto .22lr's. Not sure what is wrong with it but it keyholes shots regardless of ammo and I notice lead shavings in two cylinders. I was suggested that the gun has 'timing' issues? Is this a correct diagnosis and what would a 'smith do to correct 'timing' issues? This is the first revolver I've owned that has developed a functional problem that really effects accuracy (knock on wood) so please forgive me if this is a dumb question...
Is this diagnosis correct?
- Thread starter misfire
- Start date
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
Any slop in the cylinder, base pin ok, or forcing cone not leaded up...I would take it to a smith that works on these guns. To bad, nice gun
Timing ? don't know
Timing ? don't know
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Empty the Gun!!!! Try pulling the hammer back while gently dragging the cylinder with your other hand. When the hammer is at full #### hold the spur with your thumb and pull the trigger, just as the hammer becomes free to fall, wiggle the cylinder with the free hand. If the cylinder wobbles, or moves, or you hear a click it needs to be re-timed. This should be done by a real pistolsmith, as it requires skills not possesed by the guy next door with a Dremel. Since you're in BC you could try Gunnar at Armco, he has a terrific reputation.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
A sprung crane or a slopped out bolt stop are common revolver woes. A worn bolt or a worn hand can also be issues.
If Gunner's back log is too long, try Dean Frasier at pistolsmith.ca.
If Gunner's back log is too long, try Dean Frasier at pistolsmith.ca.
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
Fall Guy said:What does timing have to do with keyholing?
If the cylinder is out of position to the forcing cone when it fires the bullet will be deformed, possibly enough for it not to engage the rifleing completely or in a square manner. Throw stability out the window.
Rod B
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
You are really taxing my memory.
A long time ago I read an article about the "Diamondback" being built to handle both .22lr & .22WMR. Apparently in an effort to economize on production costs Colt decided to use the .22WMR barrel for both applications.
The .22WMR has a larger bore than the .22lr. This results in a compromised accuracy potential if used for the .22lr.
You could verify this by slugging the bore of your gun. If you opt to do this, please post your findings.
Rod.
A long time ago I read an article about the "Diamondback" being built to handle both .22lr & .22WMR. Apparently in an effort to economize on production costs Colt decided to use the .22WMR barrel for both applications.
The .22WMR has a larger bore than the .22lr. This results in a compromised accuracy potential if used for the .22lr.
You could verify this by slugging the bore of your gun. If you opt to do this, please post your findings.
Rod.
Rod B, I read some articles indicating that Colt did this with their 'end of the run' Diamondbacks (which I have) to use up as much existing inventory as possible. I can understand that would lead to a less accurate gun but I think there's more to it than this. I followed some advice given earlier. The Colt locks up differently than a S&W but I can feel some wiggle and I do see lead build up in the forcing cone as well as lead shavings in two of the cylinder chambers. I know Gunnar's busy but it's going up there tomorrow. It'd wind up sitting in the safe as it is anyhow, so I can afford to be patient and let him work on it as his schedule allows. Thanks to y'all......
