Is this normal wear on a single action?

[RobertMcC]

I bought a single action pistol and it had some gouging on the right hand side sorta like if you really jammed the cylinder into.

Seller trying to tell me its NORMAL saying its flash burns, that I never owned a revolver before... I dont think it is. Ive took a pick to it and its not lead build up.The Cylinder would protect this area against flash burns and its only on this side and you insert cylinder right to left. I cannot remember my other Single action ever having this gouging. Also tones of Leading despite apparently being EXC ++ condition.

Right hand side where the front of the cylinder rides against.

Anyone else wheel guns look like this or seller a scammer?

 

[BCRider]

There is a lot of lead and fouling buildup. He apparently doesn't clean them all that well. And certainly didn't change that before letting you see the gun.

I see no signs of actual metal removal of any thickness. The streak across the lower part of the barrel shoulder easily seen in the first couple of pictures isn't showing in the third at all. But if there was a step of worn metal it would show from the way the light looks. So it seems like it's either simply some slight removal of the bluing or it's some lead smearing, which can be tough to take out.

So other than it needing a good scrubbing with a brass brush and good lead remover the parts you're showing of the gun are fine.

I'm pretty sure from the reduced size of the forcing cone that this is also a rimfire revolver. And rimfire is some of the dirtiest fouling stuff out there.

I've seen and cleaned away some very funky carbon fouling and lead flashing on my single actions that defies the simple view on how it should deposit. In the real situation it tends to bounce around and turbulate around in ways we can't fathom to end up messing up the whole front and even well along the top and bottom strap to build up on the recoil shield by a surprising amount. So other than the funny looking "D" shaped smear or discoloration I'm not seeing anything I would not expect to see.

I know that on the front faces of my single action cylinders I long ago gave up trying to remove all traces of the lead flashing marks. I just clean then enough that they are smooth and leave the lead that is sitting more deeply in the machining marks alone. It's pointless to spend up to a half hour cleaning it away when the first cylinder worth of shooting just puts it back again. And where there's no gain in how long or well the gun runs by spending that time to clean the last of it away.

 

[RobertMcC]

There is a lot of lead and fouling buildup. He apparently doesn't clean them all that well. And certainly didn't change that before letting you see the gun.

I see no signs of actual metal removal of any thickness. The streak across the lower part of the barrel shoulder easily seen in the first couple of pictures isn't showing in the third at all. But if there was a step of worn metal it would show from the way the light looks. So it seems like it's either simply some slight removal of the bluing or it's some lead smearing, which can be tough to take out.

So other than it needing a good scrubbing with a brass brush and good lead remover the parts you're showing of the gun are fine.

I'm pretty sure from the reduced size of the forcing cone that this is also a rimfire revolver. And rimfire is some of the dirtiest fouling stuff out there.

I've seen and cleaned away some very funky carbon fouling and lead flashing on my single actions that defies the simple view on how it should deposit. In the real situation it tends to bounce around and turbulate around in ways we can't fathom to end up messing up the whole front and even well along the top and bottom strap to build up on the recoil shield by a surprising amount. So other than the funny looking "D" shaped smear or discoloration I'm not seeing anything I would not expect to see.

I know that on the front faces of my single action cylinders I long ago gave up trying to remove all traces of the lead flashing marks. I just clean then enough that they are smooth and leave the lead that is sitting more deeply in the machining marks alone. It's pointless to spend up to a half hour cleaning it away when the first cylinder worth of shooting just puts it back again. And where there's no gain in how long or well the gun runs by spending that time to clean the last of it away.

There isnt any metal removed, and its not lead, but the gouge I can only assume is careless putting in the cylinder and hitting the slight ridge. Hes trying to say its flame cutting. But doesn't explain it.

 

[kanook]

The marks at the cylinder pin hole are not normal.

How does the front of the cylinder look? Is it still nice round and flat, or can you see some dings on it also?

 

[kanook]

Hes trying to say its flame cutting.

Flame cutting happens on the top strap

 

[BCRider]

So you're worried about the irregular edge around the raised portion where the base pin fits? I'd say that it COULD be a little bit of chipping from the nose of the base pin bushing. But more likely it's just remnants of the rough finish left by forging the frame. Or in this case since the fuzzy looking oversize front sight in the last picture suggests to me that this is a Ruger Single Six that it's the rough finish from the casting process.

Realistically it has to be remnants of the casting or forging. To chip away the metal like that with the base pin bushing during assembly a mallet would need to be used to generate the impact force needed to chip away any metal. And that would show up as lots of other problems.

How is the rest of the gun's condition? Granted the pictures you showed us suggests a less than avid gun cleaner but if the rest of the gun supports the EXC++ condition I'd say that there are no real warning signs here. Look at the roughness again with the idea that it may be forging or casting roughness or chipping. Chipping will show specific signs of the damage with sharp edges and cupped out divots. Forging or casting remnants will appear more homogeneous and rounded pebble like in texture.

It's hard to say but there looks to be one spot that is a duller finish that might be a chip. But that could as easily occurred during the manufacturing. Or if it is casting or forging marks maybe a small surface check got blown open by the gas energy. Either way I would not say that it's from bad handling unless there are other signs of impact marking on the outer surfaces of the cylinder and frame.

 

[plinker 777]

Meh. How's it shoot?

 

[Skinny 1950]

It looks like the previous user was a bit ham fisted when inserting the cylinder, if it isn't square to the frame when inserted it will it will gouge any raised surface it encounters.
A real close fitting cylinder can be tricky to install and it seems that Bubba used brute force.
I think an EXC++ rating is a bit exaggerated.
On the bright side I bet the cylinder go's in like a dream.