Is this really stupid?

pizdets17

pizdets17

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I just got a T3 Tactical, however I am 6'4" and change and find it a bit too short. Like at least and inch. How would cutting a 3/4" piece of mdf to the shape of the recoil pad, painting it black, and screwing it in between the factory recoil pad and the stock work? I know there are spacers made for this rifle but at $23USD each for a 1/8" it would be crazy expensive. I would need a slip on pad but the 3/4" for the proper pull I think... Help?
 
Well - perhaps you could use something a bit more "gunlike" than chipboard. How about some 1 inch hardwood board? You can retain the existing pad by using longer screws...
 
i wouldnt use mdf, it would look ugly as sin and if it ever got wet it would be done..

if you cant find an afordable pre made spacer, if you have aplastics and pait shop local to you hit them um for a thick peice of rubber, if you had a template of the shape u wanted they could probably even cut to fir for a few bucks.

oor
w w w.brownells.com/1/1/22139-buttstock-spacers-1-2-stock-spacer-kick-eez.html
 
that would work, and yea I've already figured out the screws will be short..

cosmic said:
Well - perhaps you could use something a bit more "gunlike" than chipboard. How about some 1 inch hardwood board? You can retain the existing pad by using longer screws...
Click to expand...
 
recoil pad spacer

I did this on my Rem 700 SPS. I used a chunk of clear fir, and I hogged out a shape on the band saw before I sanded it to fit. Worked fine.

Since this was not a "walking" gun, I epoxied a couple of pounds of lead shot into the stock cavity before I installed the spacer.

Then I made a cheek piece out of the leftover wood, and got it to fit pretty well. Took all the sting out of the .300 Win Mag (even with max load 210 grain Bergers), and I shot it a lot better.

Only problem is that I got hooked on working with wood - ordered a couple of cheap ($99) laminated stocks over the internet, glass-bedded them (which works way better on laminate than on tupperware), and so on, and so on.

Once you realize how easy it is, you'll want to do all your tupperware stocks, so a $15 piece of douglas fir can lead to $500 worth of laminated stock "raw material". I've since re-stocked, pillar- and glass-bedded my .375H&H and built up a nice little mountain rifle in .270Win. Eventually I'll get around to my .416 Ruger, but like I say, it's a slippery slope.


Bill
 
I am not that great at working with my hands lol so I don't think I am in any danger of picking this up as a hobby.

wagnerb said:
I did this on my Rem 700 SPS. I used a chunk of clear fir, and I hogged out a shape on the band saw before I sanded it to fit. Worked fine.

Since this was not a "walking" gun, I epoxied a couple of pounds of lead shot into the stock cavity before I installed the spacer.

Then I made a cheek piece out of the leftover wood, and got it to fit pretty well. Took all the sting out of the .300 Win Mag (even with max load 210 grain Bergers), and I shot it a lot better.

Only problem is that I got hooked on working with wood - ordered a couple of cheap ($99) laminated stocks over the internet, glass-bedded them (which works way better on laminate than on tupperware), and so on, and so on.

Once you realize how easy it is, you'll want to do all your tupperware stocks, so a $15 piece of douglas fir can lead to $500 worth of laminated stock "raw material". I've since re-stocked, pillar- and glass-bedded my .375H&H and built up a nice little mountain rifle in .270Win. Eventually I'll get around to my .416 Ruger, but like I say, it's a slippery slope.


Bill
Click to expand...
 
You might want to consider using two pcs of 1/2" alum plates that can be purchase at any metal shop. I bought mine at the place called Metal Superstore. it would give it a nicer look. Ask them to rough cut it down to how you want. Some sawing, filing, drilling and sanding and you have it. I paid around $20 for them.
DSCN1027-1.jpg
 
"...this really stupid?..." Not even a little.
MDF/particle board breaks too easily. Doesn't machine well or take stains or decent finishes worth spit either. Looks like painted crap as well. If you want wood, use the same wood as the stock or a hard wood that'll give you a pleasing contrast.
Lee Valley Tools, et all, sell hunks of wood for just such emergencies. A rough sawn, 'pepper mill blank', 10 x 2.5 x 2.5 of claro walnut runs $13.80. You can get slices of laminates too. A domestic assortment(one each, 6.5" x 12"x 1/8" thick, I think. Cherry, mahogany, maple, white oak, red oak, and walnut.) veneer runs $11.50. All prices in Canadian dollars. http://www.leevalley.com/en/home.aspx
"...a slip on pad..." The Pachmayr pad adds about an inch for not a huge pile of money. Around $30, as I recall. So do most screw on pads.
"...it's a slippery slope..." Steep one too. Making your own holsters does that. Worse when you make mag pouches.
 
I know.. But I hate the way they look lol. I will but the actual precision fit ones I think at $39 each its not bad, I do need two of them though lol

pilgrim said:
just go to BassPro or WSS and buy a slip-on recoil pad...something like this:

1. http://ca.wholesalesports.com/store...ds-swivels/slip-on-recoil-pad/prod213038.html

2. http://ca.wholesalesports.com/store...mbsaver-153-slip-on-recoil-pad/prod52814.html

3. http://ca.wholesalesports.com/store...rifle-pads-swivels/slip-on-pad/prod52808.html

they all will give you 1/2" - 1" added to you stock :)
Click to expand...
 
That looks amazing...

mightyhunter said:
You might want to consider using two pcs of 1/2" alum plates that can be purchase at any metal shop. I bought mine at the place called Metal Superstore. it would give it a nicer look. Ask them to rough cut it down to how you want. Some sawing, filing, drilling and sanding and you have it. I paid around $20 for them.
DSCN1027-1.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I have the same problem with my Tik Tac and I can't figure out what kind of screws
they use.I can make some spacers in PVC the tickness you need,where I work.
 
Probably weird euro screws lol. I think I am just going to go the limbsaver route as anything else might look too ghetto..The screws dont look anything special, can probably match them up at crappy tire...If you do lengthen your with it looking factory post some pics! For now, here are my two short twins:





Winchester 1886 said:
I have the same problem with my Tik Tac and I can't figure out what kind of screws
they use.I can make some spacers in PVC the tickness you need,where I work.
Click to expand...
 
Not even a little stupid! I do that to all my long guns! The length of pulls for most production guns today are just too short to be comfortable. There are a bunch of guys at my Skeet club who spend fortunes to get there shotgun stocks lengthened. I just use a piece of Hardwood (much more stable than MDF) between the recoil pad and stock. Works great and is easy to do. You can even wrap it with Hockey tape to give it a subdued appearance so that it is less noticeable.
 
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