Is this rechamber costly???

the 35 Rem has a case head of .460 according to the factory round I have here...the 358 is of course nominally .473 and the 356 is the same as the good old 30-30 at .506..
maybe the .460" bolt face is big enough to fit the .473 case or maybe a Marlin 336 doesn't have a counterbored bolt...can't remember...haven't had one for a while..maybe it's a simple job...the 356 rimless sounds like a good idea...308 brass is free and easy to neck up....but then you could probably sell the Marlin almost and buy a new BLR in 358 with the cash from the Marlin plus the cost of the rechamber.....the economics deserve checking out...
or you could have a bolt action 358 Win put together...
 
I have converted 3 .35 rem 336's to .356 rimless, I don't know what gunsmiths would charge to do it. I find Marlins are much nicer handling than blrs, and easier to get a good tigger pull on. Used .35 rem 336's are cheap compared to used BLR's in .358, never mind a new one.

You can hop up loads in .35 rem for use in a 336, but I have a couple of Rem 14's in .35 rem, and don't want to risk lighting them up with super loads.
 
buckbrush said:
I have converted 3 .35 rem 336's to .356 rimless, I don't know what gunsmiths would charge to do it. I find Marlins are much nicer handling than blrs, and easier to get a good tigger pull on. Used .35 rem 336's are cheap compared to used BLR's in .358, never mind a new one.

You can hop up loads in .35 rem for use in a 336, but I have a couple of Rem 14's in .35 rem, and don't want to risk lighting them up with super loads.

is it just a straight rechamber?..no other mods required?..
 
for the .356 rimless, no mods required. I have never tried the .356 win (rimmed), I have never even seen brass for it. I would use a 30-30 bolt and extractor if I was making a .356 win. Keep in mind Marlin made very few .356's, they are very rare.

I have also rechambered a few 1895-336's from 45-70 to .450 alaskan. If you don't want to shorten cases to 45-70 length, a little action modification is required to gain the .150 extra the 450 alaskan requires. I have also done one .50 alaskan and am waiting on a new reamer to make another one. The .50 requires no mods what so ever , it is 45-70 length.
 
Win94 said:
Fellas is a .35 remington rechamber to .356 Winchester a costly and labour intensive project for a smith?? I am dealing with a Marlin 336 here.

It needs to be pointed out that this is a potentially dangerous conversion.

I looked into this a few years ago. There is a lot of info available at: shootersforum.com/
3w.marlinowners.com/board/

.35 Remington (pressure tested factory) operates at @28,000PSI

.356 Win operates (officially) @50,000PSI

The reality is (according to people with both .356Win & .35Rems) that factory .356 tends to be well below .35Rem handloads.

.35 Rem should be easily handloaded to at least .30-30 factory pressures quite safely (this would blow factory .35 into the weeds).

If you insist on doing the conversion:

This rechambering conversion should only be attemped in a .35 Rem Marlin MFG after 1980. There is serial number date code info available.

When I was considering this, I was going to use a .444 as the action and spin a new barrel on. That would eliminate any bolt issues & the action strength one as well.

Or just buy a Winchester Big Bore in .356 and avoid the whole issue.
D
 
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Mike said:
Buckbrush - why a 356 rimless instead of a 358 Win - i.e. why do the bullets need to be seated deeper?

Here's link showing a 336 35rem converted to 358win:
http://www.gunweek.com/2003/feature0301.html

Sounds like a neat conversion, but is the 336 tough enough for the 358 pressures?

I really like the "356 rimless" concept, but the reality is that you are now handloading, so why not just bump up your .35 loads?

Also:
If you look at the velocity/energy data at the bottom of the page you will note that they are not applicable to contents of the story.

When you rechamber your 20" .35 remington it doesn't suddenly become a 26" barrel.

I'm also certain that you won't get 250gr jacketed out of your new Marlin!

I'm going to suggest that it is published factory or handloading info.
 
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