Is this repairable?

ssapach said:
I've had good luck removing finish from checkering with brushes. You might need to go over it more than once, or use stiffer parts cleaning type of brushes.

Tape a brush to a reciprocating saw blade to make life easier, or get a spiral brush and use a drill.
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Your a hard man on checkering using the above methods, if your serious you may be related to the fella that Bubba'd the gun in the first place.

The checkering is machine cut not pressed, which is completely doable to recut by hand. If it was lazer cut as many of the new Winchesters for example are, now you have a problem trying to recut that crap by hand.

To the OP, removing the graffiti from the wood is doable by stripping the whole stock. Sanding out the engraving on the butt stock and recutting all the checkering panels with single line cutters to make all the panels look the same in colour and depth when done, as suggested where the engraving is you will cut a wee bit deeper. Sand the whole stock fill the pores, apply a finish of choice and it will look as good as new and better. The metal will be a more difficult issue in my opinion, I have no suggestions there as I am not a metal person. As for the scope that's perhaps the easiest part. Scrap the scope and those see through mounts, and replace with something more desirable and sensible.
 
Scamaniac said:
Bob must have got an electropencil for Christmas. Other than being disfigured by Bob, this rifle is almost mint. Name/DL# is everywhere. What a shame! Certainly trying to ignore it is one option. I'd love to hear some repair options. Thank you.
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If you bought it for collector value, you're screwed. If you bought it (and presumably will sell it) as a shooter, shoot it.
 
Never gotta worry about scratching it up while hunting, at least.

How to repair, or indeed, if, is going to depend on what you want to put in to it.

Personally, I really like guns like that one, as they come a LOT cheaper than one without the engraving, and work just as good as the shiniest.

I can live with ugly, if it comes cheap enough!

Metal wise, some fine, single cut files, some wet or dry sandpaper, and a couple evenings puttering, and you can knock of the worst of the lettering, and blend much of the rest so it won't show too badly when it is refinished. With strips of sandpaper of various grits, and some care, you can do a passable job of matching the factory finish texture (likely enough, originally done while the barrel was spinning on a lathe, with a special belt sander).

All of the woodwork and metalwork becomes a non-starter if you have to pay someone for doing it.

Somewhere around here I have an old Weatherby Catalog, that you could look at for garish inlay ideas. Nobody would notice the electric pencil work then.... :)
 
Bob should do a tutorial on how to turn a $550 rifle into a $300 rifle.


Oh, yeah, I guess he just did.

I have a 99C, the checkering was sanded and refinished a bit, if you want a replacement I'll let it go on the cheap as I've been planning to make a full stock variant with it.
 
caramel said:
Buy a new stock, this is not repareable:bangHead:
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You give up awfully easy.

How's life with YOUR President?

Of course it's repairable.


A continuation on the metalwork side. One more trick to use that can save your butt a bit, is to get a couple fairly large flat nose punches (1/8"-1/4") and buff the tips on a buffing wheel so as to polish the face and knock down and round over the sharp edges around the tip. These can then be used to displace the metal that has been raised up, around the impact areas, using a series of light hammer blows with a small hammer to slowly work the metal around as best you can. Not a total solution to the mess, but a place to start when faced with a big ding or a mangled screw slot that is difficult to replace.

Going over the Face and the Peen of a small ball peen hammer with the buffer is another good tool to have. It allows you to smack a metal part pretty hard without leaving a really visible mark, and the smooth edges won't leave a sharp edged mark like a mis-hit with a un-refinished hammer will. Any imperfections on the face of the hammer (or the punches) will be transferred to the work, so these are tools for direct contact where it counts, rather than general purpose hammer and punches.
 
Thanks very much for the insight and ideas. I bought this rig because the price was right and I love the balvar scopes. I hate the see through mounts so I picked up a 99 rail mount. Plan was to just remount scope and hunt with it but then I got a buddy into shooting/hunting and he wants a 308. I figured I could spare this one but he was really turned off by the bubba job. It will likely be a project this winter if we don't have a lot of snow to keep me sledding. Thanks again.
 
Scamaniac said:
Thanks very much for the insight and ideas. I bought this rig because the price was right and I love the balvar scopes. I hate the see through mounts so I picked up a 99 rail mount. Plan was to just remount scope and hunt with it but then I got a buddy into shooting/hunting and he wants a 308. I figured I could spare this one but he was really turned off by the bubba job. It will likely be a project this winter if we don't have a lot of snow to keep me sledding. Thanks again.
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If you have a good shooter I would then put some effort into getting it fixed if not well it does not matter IMHO
 
Yep.

You could make it worse, but really, the risk amounts to whether or not you will make it better, or about as bad as it already is.

A little work with a checkering tool to deepen the affected area on the fore end, and some judicious shaping around the etching above the lever, then play a bit with whatever finish you can match as close as makes you happy, to blend in and cover the areas you worked over.

Sorta like when you lose a hubcap. Nobody usually notices if you have two hubcaps on one side of the car, and none on the other. :) Not too many folks would ever see that the checkering was deeper on the side you doctored up.

In any case, it looks a good project for the winter.
 
The metal damage could be ground/sanded/polished/re-blued. The wood, sanded out, and re checkered; or buy a replacement stock. The scope could be cleaned up with sanding and black epoxy would cover it up.
 
It's a 99C Savage so buy a 5 dollar compass and inlay it into the butt stock.
It somehow doesn't look complete the way Bob left it without the mandatory compass.

Sorry. I used to collect 99's and stuff like that makes me sad.
 
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