Is this safe??

dave_t73

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I just noticed a sizeable crack in the bolt of my Carcano carbine. It hasn't been fired since WW2. (I'm guessing - its been in the family ever since).

As the bolt is thrown back, the inner bolt locks in the rear position (rotating and sliding along the J-shaped groove near the cracked area).
The trigger is pulled and the inner bolt slams back, hammering the firing pin.

Pretty straightforward, but I'm wondering if the inner bolt will
fly back and hit me in the face (when fired) due to the crack near the track/groove.

The question I'm pondering is if the crack is bad enough to warrant taking it to a gunsmith. I don't know any gunsmiths in
Winnipeg but is it likely it can be fixed or am I looking at a new part?

bolt1.jpg





bolt3.jpg



Carcano3.jpg
 
Just get it fixed, the crack isn't in acriticle area. the damage has most likely come from to much dry fireing? All of the recoil and pressure is held in check by the forward locking lugs and if they fail, the bolt handle, which is turned down behind a massive lug on the receiver. Very nice carbine by the way. Definitely worth getting fixed. There are lots of gunsmiths on this site, if there isn't and I doubt that, there should be a couple close to you. Ask about it with another thread or probably someone reading this will step forward. That rifle looks to be completely matching, don't change out any parts unless absolutely neccessary. bearhunter
 
Thanks for the input GunNutz! I'll take it to a smith in my area (after I find one) and see if I can get it fixed. I think I'll also get a new bolt ass'y since they're cheap. That way I'll have something to shoot with and also retain the originality of the parts.
 
The fireing pin and cocking piece are retained by the lug on the safety engageing in a groove in the receiver when the bolt is in the fireing position. There is little chance of these parts coming out to the rear. The bolt body should be checked.
 
bearhunter and green have it right. There are no safety issues associated with that crack. Any smith could run a 1/4" bead across that spot and grind it smooth for $25-35 and it would be back to good as new.

Or you could PM me and I'd tell you about a great guy I know who has the part you need if Marstar is out (make sure you specify the turned-down handle). ;)
 
That would silver solder quite nicely. If it was welded the weld could easily get in a hard spot to machine out. Like said above it's not structural.

Easy job but you need to know what your doing, like everything else.
 
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