Israeli Mauser sight question

T

the11

Regular
Rating - 100%
31   0   0
Location
Sherwood Park Alberta
Hi all.

Because I am a sucker, I have decided to desporterize my son's Israeli Mauser. Picked up a very nice laminate K98 stock from Marstar, so aside from accesories, the only thing I need are both front and rear sight assemblies. I am assuming the Israelis had a rear sight leaf calibrated for 7.62x51, and I also realize that it might be a bit of a long shot finding one. I have an ad out on the EE, and we'll see where it goes. But supposing all I can find is a run of the mill K98 rear sight calibrated for 8mm, just how far out of whack would it be? I am putting this rifle together as a (relatively) cheap shooter, and hope to find some surplus 7.62x51 to feed it.

I am relatively new to this game, and this will be my first Mauser project. Any help appreciated.
 
Put a WTB a guy recently offered me the whole rear sight for a 7.62 Mauser for about 60$, everything but the base. But I deleted the message.

I'm trying to find a ramp for mine. Only difference is the sight ramp is calibrated for 7.62 but the sight, spring etc are the same.
 
hmmm ... I guess it would make sense that it would be the ramp that is the different bit. Anyway, I have the ad on the EE, so we'll see what turns up. Seems a bit silly when there have been a couple of pretty good looking Israeli Mausers on the EE lately. This desporterizing thing is kind of like an addiction. You know it isn't really worth it .... and yet you can't stop .... lol.

RobertMcC said:
Put a WTB a guy recently offered me the whole rear sight for a 7.62 Mauser for about 60$, everything but the base. But I deleted the message.

I'm trying to find a ramp for mine. Only difference is the sight ramp is calibrated for 7.62 but the sight, spring etc are the same.
Click to expand...
 
the11 said:
hmmm ... I guess it would make sense that it would be the ramp that is the different bit. Anyway, I have the ad on the EE, so we'll see what turns up. Seems a bit silly when there have been a couple of pretty good looking Israeli Mausers on the EE lately. This desporterizing thing is kind of like an addiction. You know it isn't really worth it .... and yet you can't stop .... lol.
Click to expand...

Lucky mine was only missing the rear sight. Pulled off the scope bases, put dummy screws back in.
 
RobertMcC said:
Put a WTB a guy recently offered me the whole rear sight for a 7.62 Mauser for about 60$, everything but the base. But I deleted the message.

I'm trying to find a ramp for mine. Only difference is the sight ramp is calibrated for 7.62 but the sight, spring etc are the same.
Click to expand...

I am almost 100% certain they did not recalibrate the rear sight. Much like the M96 Swedes when they switched ammo, they were sighted to known distance and the holdover/under was compensated for by the soldier.
At all practical ranges, you won't notice much of a difference anyhow.
 
Well, I just made a deal with another CGN'r for the full set of k98 sights. So I will put her all together, and she how she shoots. I have read that they used soft solder. I am hoping that good old fashioned plumbing solder will work. I could also use silver solder, but I am thinking it might not have as much flex as plumbing solder. Anybody got any input on that?
 
the11 said:
Well, I just made a deal with another CGN'r for the full set of k98 sights. So I will put her all together, and she how she shoots. I have read that they used soft solder. I am hoping that good old fashioned plumbing solder will work. I could also use silver solder, but I am thinking it might not have as much flex as plumbing solder. Anybody got any input on that?
Click to expand...

They sell metal solder which is better then plumbing and still melts at a low temp. I got it at CT.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/bernzomatic-acid-core-solder-0586002p.html
 
Yea I'm in the process of restoring mine. I had to leave the rear base on mine because the horror under. Someone got too frisky with the grinder. Shaping the receiver for a base.
 
No, it is not true silver solder. But then to be fair, some people claim that what you are actually doing with the high percentage silver 1100-1200 degree stuff is brazing, not soldering. Others think otherwise. But the fact is that silver bearing solder contains silver (tin, copper, and silver) and is apparently somewhat stronger than most lead based soft solders, but still melts at a relatively low temp.

I have actually wondered if it would work to solder a shim to an SMLE bolt face.:stirthepot2: :nest:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom