Issue with powder coating bore rider bullets and a solution
- Thread starter yomomma
- Start date
Thanks for the info Yomomma, I have had a Lee 90368 (309-170c) for years, cast and powder coated some bullets but never used, i just tried dummy round in my win94 and as you said jams. I tried the non pc bullet and it still jams, looks like its casting too big with this mold.
I guess i will start looking at different mold when i finish the 500+ hornady 150gr.
I guess i will start looking at different mold when i finish the 500+ hornady 150gr.
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fingers284
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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- Alberta Cowboy Ranges
I cant see you vid (black box still) so don't know if im repeating your method or not
Tis only works with gun-sprayed bullets
I have some cookie pans that are perforated with holes spaced 1/2 " apart (a lot of holes per pan). Pans purchased at Dollar Store so very cheap, hole are smaller than anything other than .224 so I custom size them with a punch or drill to fit the various bullet noses I use. Just make sure the finished hole will allow insertion of the bullet nose and stop at the driving ring.
The following is important to make all this work worthwhile.
Load the tray up with slugs nose down (if you don't have enough slugs to fill all the holes, cover the empty holes with tap or paper) and place over another regular cookie tray so that the slug noses are all inside the enclosure the bottom tray provides. This is all nessesary because the electrical charge that attracts the powder to the bullets is also still happening around the bullet nose, same as the shank, and unless the direct tract for gun over-spray is blocked by the rim of the bottom tray, the powder will be drawn down under the top tray and adhere to the slug noses.
Now tweezer transfer the slugs to a cooking tray bottom down or into another holed tray (both parchment covered) for cooking. Slug noses will be powder free.
Might sound like a lot of messing around but the trays cost $1.30 each, takes 15 minutes to customize the hole size for each tray...and your ready to coat. I have a dozen or so trays to accommodate .22-.30-.35-.38-.45...less than $15 and 2 hours work in the whole outfit...not much in re-loading is cheaper than that.
Tis only works with gun-sprayed bullets
I have some cookie pans that are perforated with holes spaced 1/2 " apart (a lot of holes per pan). Pans purchased at Dollar Store so very cheap, hole are smaller than anything other than .224 so I custom size them with a punch or drill to fit the various bullet noses I use. Just make sure the finished hole will allow insertion of the bullet nose and stop at the driving ring.
The following is important to make all this work worthwhile.
Load the tray up with slugs nose down (if you don't have enough slugs to fill all the holes, cover the empty holes with tap or paper) and place over another regular cookie tray so that the slug noses are all inside the enclosure the bottom tray provides. This is all nessesary because the electrical charge that attracts the powder to the bullets is also still happening around the bullet nose, same as the shank, and unless the direct tract for gun over-spray is blocked by the rim of the bottom tray, the powder will be drawn down under the top tray and adhere to the slug noses.
Now tweezer transfer the slugs to a cooking tray bottom down or into another holed tray (both parchment covered) for cooking. Slug noses will be powder free.
Might sound like a lot of messing around but the trays cost $1.30 each, takes 15 minutes to customize the hole size for each tray...and your ready to coat. I have a dozen or so trays to accommodate .22-.30-.35-.38-.45...less than $15 and 2 hours work in the whole outfit...not much in re-loading is cheaper than that.
You can just buy dies that will do it for you, whether you want to size just the nose, just the driving bands at the bottom (i.e. like a heeled bullet), or the full length of the bullet.
NOE not only makes very nice moulds, they make some of terrifically useful reloading tools - and at a very minimal expense. You can size the nose, the base, or the entire bullet in .001" increments. If I hadn't spent the last 30+ years buying first a Saeco Lubrisizer, and then assorted sizing dies and nose punches to size various bullets to fit various rifles, I would buy into the NOE bullet sizer system specifically because you can full length size, nose size, or base size, all in .001" increments.
https://youtu.be/XRoudK8THGM?t=113
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/sizing-tools/sizing_kits/30-caliber-sizers-standard/
https://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php?topic=1245.msg11128#msg11128
I use S&B for my handgun bullets. For Rifles I wanted a nicer finish.
Deffinately a well thought out system. Oh if money were not an issue.
- Less expensive than a Lyman, RCBS, Saeco sizer, along with the sizing dies, and punches. That's a fact.
- What's your time worth?
- How many bullet casters looking for accuracy can't find an advantage in being able to size bullets overall or at either end in .001" increments looking for the best groups?
Set my coal to 2.440 for pc bullets and 2.500 for non pc (This works in my win94, not recommending this for anyone)
30-30 .309 - 180gr
shot 10 rounds with unique and 10 with imr3031 at min loads for both and worked up (Lyman 48th cast bullet data) no issues.
No need for extra dies or new mold.
30-30 .309 - 180gr
shot 10 rounds with unique and 10 with imr3031 at min loads for both and worked up (Lyman 48th cast bullet data) no issues.
No need for extra dies or new mold.
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